Starter Troubles: Strange Behavior

[af_1132]

Hello, everyone, been a minute!

The CB7 sat since August, and the winter brought plenty of moisture in my neck of the woods (Redwood forest, parked in dirt), and so the whole car get very damp, including aluminum corrosion and what looks to be a little corrosion on the fuses themselves.

I went to start it the other day, and nothing. The relay clicks, the battery had 12V, fuel pump primes, and the dash lights up. Jumping didn't work, hammer to starter didn't work, and wiring doesn't seem to have any evidence of rats chomping away. I get another starter (Denso) same as last time, switch it out, and boom, starts right up three times. I let it run for an hour or so.

The next day, I go out to start it again, notice I didn't connect the negative cable from the battery like usual, and it is now doing the exact same thing as before the starter swap: relay click, fuel pump primes, dash lights on, nothing to starter, and the battery has 13V to it (Odyssey PC680 BTW).

Any help chasing down this electrical gremlin (most likely) would be much appreciated. Should I pull out the main relay, battery 80A fuse?

[af_1132]

Updates:
1. When ignition is on and an arc from the positive post to the starter is created, I can confirm that the starter makes noise. It is not engaging the flywheel.
2. I was able to bump start the car tonight, but after turning off and trying to start normally, same issue.

[SSMAccord]

Could the start function of your ignition switch be worn out or not be making good contact?

[af_1132]

Thanks for posting, I appreciate the insight. Oh boy, so you mean at the top of the steering column? There could be a moisture problem causing corrosion, I guess it is time to finally open that and take a look. Also, the wire clip that connects to the starter behind the hot post is worn down, in the sense that half the copper wire is no longer connected to the clip, but has come apart. I wonder if that wire’s effective gauge is too low now.

[Raf99]

...................... Also, the wire clip that connects to the starter behind the hot post is worn down, in the sense that half the copper wire is no longer connected to the clip, but has come apart. I wonder if that wire’s effective gauge is too low now.

I was just going to mention this. That is the wire that turns on the starter solenoid, this wire comes from your ignition switch.

[af_1132]

Gotcha, thank you! I should probably cut that clip off, strip another 1/2 inch of copper, and reconnect the clip to some fresh copper.

[af_1132]

Just did what I mentioned in my last post, starter will still not engage the flywheel. I can confirm that it makes noises when trying to start.

It's just unbelievably frustrating since it worked the first three times on the day I installed the new one.

[af_1132]

Update: I can now take my key out of the ignition when the ignition is on, haha! The starter makes a subtle noise when the ignition turns on for about 5 seconds, then it stops. It will not make a noise when you attempt to start it.

[af_1132]

Just want to start by saying that Nick is a really cool and helpful guy.

Update. I followed this video to check for continuity https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAREADz7BMA

The accessory (white/black), ignition 2 (yellow), and Ignition 1 (black/yellow) all do what they are supposed to do in the continuity test.

The black/white wire to starter has no continuity in any key position. I think it is supposed to have continuity in position 3 only, but no cigar. Ugh, this leads me to believe that the black/white wire may have been eaten through by rats somewhere.

[Raf99]

You are correct. Or it's something in the ignition cylinder key unit. You should just make a small long wire and run it from the ignition wiring to the starter connection and test.

[af_1132]

Thanks Raf!

So, by that you mean splice into the black/white wire near the clip of the ignition harness and send it all the way to the starter post? This will bypass the starter relay, which I am also worried could be bad.

[Raf99]

So good point as this starter cut relay #1 could be bad also. Looking at the manual this relay gets it's power from the fuel pump / main relay and then goes to ECU ground.
Your fuel pump gets it's power from the main relay too. So if your fuel pump is coming on, then it could very well be the starter cut relay #1. Not too sure where this is located, i bet somewhere hard to get to.

The fuel pump relay getting it's power from fuse #28, which is fed from ignition on. (fuse 27,28,29 getting power with different ignition settings. Fuse #20/#25 getting power before all (horns and hazards)).
If power isn't making it out of starter cut relay #1 then starter solenoid isn't getting a signal. You could use a volt meter here as should be a 12V signal vs. starter wire having high amps and you don't want to play with.

The reason for the starter cut relay is so the starter cannot be given power by accident and engage the engine ( I think?). & so power to the starter is not enough to engage the engine and turn it over, you also need key on position (power to main relay).
Obviously everything is a 12V to my knowledge.

PS - There's a starter cut relay #2 if you have a OEM security system.

[af_1132]

Update: finally found the issue just a few weeks ago: Someone, long ago, had installed some anti-theft device that was spliced into the black wire with white stripe that goes to the starter. One end had come loose from the crimp connector, so that circuit was open. I got rid of that crap "device" and repaired the wire and boom, perfect startup.