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Engine sputters sometimes when accelerating but acts normal when restart

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    #16
    Anyone, Anyone? Am kind of ruling fuel pump out as i have read they either work or don't. I am not not even sure yet if it is lack of spark or fuel. Am installing a fuel pressure gauge pretty soon so then i will know. Am sort of leaning towards fuel filter but filter is under 10k miles old and why does it never happen at high speeds and rpms. If it was the fuel filter wouldn't the sputtering be consistent, like happen every few miles. Which that doesn't happen. It is totally random when it happens but has gotten closer in intervals.

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      #17
      Replaced fuel filter adn still sputters. Anyone have any ideal. ICM, fuel filter and main relay replaced. Any other ideals what it could be.

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        #18
        Does your rpm gauge reflect the sputter? You were right about the fuel filter as it wasn't an issue at high speeds. You're issue is most likely the spark / distributor system as the only other factor here fuel. Now it could be injectors but doubt it.
        Check your plugs? (do they all look the same?) Check your distributor cap? How long does it take after a restart until you see the issue again? Is there anything you can do to trigger the issue or make the issue delayed?

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          #19
          Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
          Does your rpm gauge reflect the sputter? You were right about the fuel filter as it wasn't an issue at high speeds. You're issue is most likely the spark / distributor system as the only other factor here fuel. Now it could be injectors but doubt it.
          Check your plugs? (do they all look the same?) Check your distributor cap? How long does it take after a restart until you see the issue again? Is there anything you can do to trigger the issue or make the issue delayed?
          The rpm gauge acts fine and reflects the sputtering going on. In other words the rpm's drop of course. Nothing odd. All electrical systems operate fine while this is happening. The engine never cuts off and will idle if i just let off gas. The issue is random and can not be brought on by any action i can tell. And nothing i can tell i can do to delay issue. It never sputters while idling. Always under load. I tried to list every symptom as best as i could in the post above. The dizzy is a cheap aftermarket one i put on a couple years ago. I got a replacement one that works that i might try putting in. What is that other piece of electrical hardware in dizzy beside the ICM?

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            #20
            Ya.. are you just replacing the distributor cap or the whole unit (including ignitor)? If it feels like fuel starvation maybe your fuel pump sock is clogged too. Oh, how did your plugs look?

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              #21
              Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
              Ya.. are you just replacing the distributor cap or the whole unit (including ignitor)? If it feels like fuel starvation maybe your fuel pump sock is clogged too. Oh, how did your plugs look?
              I would replace the whole dizzy. I got a spare one. Fuel pump sock i thought at first cause the people who stole car had it in personally for me and i think was trying to cause as many problems as possible. And it sat for a year before it was driven again. I would know if i had a fuel pressure gauge installed. I got one but am debating how to install it. I don't want to splice my fuel lines but what can i do.

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                #22
                Ya leave the sock and the injectors for the very last. But he issue you are describing is a dying fuel pump or clogged sock which only presents itself when the "sucking" is at it's highest peak. Possible angle of the car may be assisting too.
                But you said it goes away when you turn off the car and back on. Soo when does it return? The next time you step on it, every few miles? We also need to know how severe this studder is. Does it feel like the car is dying and have 100% loss of power, or a hick-up?

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
                  Ya leave the sock and the injectors for the very last. But he issue you are describing is a dying fuel pump or clogged sock which only presents itself when the "sucking" is at it's highest peak. Possible angle of the car may be assisting too.
                  But you said it goes away when you turn off the car and back on. Soo when does it return? The next time you step on it, every few miles? We also need to know how severe this studder is. Does it feel like the car is dying and have 100% loss of power, or a hick-up?
                  Yes it goes away and returns randomly. It started 2 months ago and didn't happen again for 30 miles or so. Since then the intervals are much more common. SO it has progressed at an even rate but still random it happens seemingly. The stutter isn't severe and if u are riding with me u might not even notice or think i just let off of gas. But driving it there is a total loss of power but doesn't cut off even in nuetral. If i restart it it acts fine once again but today i tried that again and there was still some hesitation or something. This also generally don't happen at higher rpms. 3200 and below. Never has it happened at above 4k rpms which i get up to and above regularly. I got as man symptoms as i could think of above
                  Here let me list them again

                  main relay replaced but still same sputter. My possibilities left IMO are fuel pump, fuel filter or foreign object in gas tank.
                  Symptoms are
                  1. Entire engine sputters but no backfiring and seemingly no misfiring. It is like someone just turned off fuel so it can only idle.
                  2. It still idles properly even when this is happening. I can just let off gas and it idles fine but will still sputter if i hit gas. No backfiring or sound during this. If you were passenger u might not even notice what is happening. Just that i let off gas u might think.
                  3. Symptoms range in time it does this. From a second or 2 to 10 to 15 seconds on occasion.
                  4. All other electrical components work fine while this is happening.
                  5. This has always happened driving at lower rpms between 1200 to 2700. Never yet has it sputtered above 2700.
                  6. If I cut off engine and restart all symptoms go away.
                  7. This happens no matter the engine temp.
                  8. Engine never sputters while revving up engine. It always happens while driving at low speeds and rpm's.
                  9. Engine never sputters above 35 mph. I also rarely go anywhere that speed limit is above 45. So am not sure how accurate this symptom is.
                  10. Symptoms have became more frequent over a month and about 140 miles of driving.


                  things ruled out and why?
                  1. Cat- Sputtering happens when engine is cold or warm and restarting car it immediately goes away.
                  2. o2 sensor- no cel. O2 sensor is new and this started with old O2 sensor replaced a few weeks ago.
                  3. Main relay- Was replaced today.

                  other possibilities?
                  1.something else in dizzy besides ICM which was replaced a couple days ago(I had a spare i put in).

                  Any other possibilities please share.
                  Last edited by zedjr10; 08-04-2021, 09:57 PM.

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                    #24
                    Ya, I almost agree with fuel but hard to say...... But looking at your plugs will tell you if it's an individual cylinder or not. So let's see some pics of the plugs please

                    https://honda-tech.com/how-tos/a/hon...itating-376002

                    We also need to talk about TPS sensor too. Easy to test with a volt meter, check your manual. You may have a bad spot starting. Your ECM may detect the air leak and is trying to compensate. But when you turn the car off / on the short term memory is lost and the car tries to learn it again. The car will always be trying to correct the error. With such a small random issue you may have to wait till it reveals itself. Even senior techs sometimes can't figure an issue out and only do once it reveals itself more.

                    If you took this to a shop they'd have the tools to figure this out pretty quick, assuming it's noticeable to the worker. Fuel gauge in-line tester, spark/ignition testing, put the car on the hoist and put it in gear while measuring fuel pressure, etc. They can just tackle so much more, quicker.

                    But ya....
                    - Pics of plugs
                    - Throttle body clean?
                    - No air leaks (after the map sensor)

                    And you're getting a fuel pressure gauge (but you can't read this when driving and your issue isn't at idle; so almost not point in getting one).

                    Lol, next time your driving and it does this, violently shake the car from side to side as much as you can! Does it help? (thinking dirty fuel sock)

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
                      Ya, I almost agree with fuel but hard to say...... But looking at your plugs will tell you if it's an individual cylinder or not. So let's see some pics of the plugs please

                      https://honda-tech.com/how-tos/a/hon...itating-376002

                      We also need to talk about TPS sensor too. Easy to test with a volt meter, check your manual. You may have a bad spot starting. Your ECM may detect the air leak and is trying to compensate. But when you turn the car off / on the short term memory is lost and the car tries to learn it again. The car will always be trying to correct the error. With such a small random issue you may have to wait till it reveals itself. Even senior techs sometimes can't figure an issue out and only do once it reveals itself more.

                      If you took this to a shop they'd have the tools to figure this out pretty quick, assuming it's noticeable to the worker. Fuel gauge in-line tester, spark/ignition testing, put the car on the hoist and put it in gear while measuring fuel pressure, etc. They can just tackle so much more, quicker.

                      But ya....
                      - Pics of plugs
                      - Throttle body clean?
                      - No air leaks (after the map sensor)

                      And you're getting a fuel pressure gauge (but you can't read this when driving and your issue isn't at idle; so almost not point in getting one).

                      Lol, next time your driving and it does this, violently shake the car from side to side as much as you can! Does it help? (thinking dirty fuel sock)
                      Plugs are fine. My fuel pressure gauge is an electrical one i am putting inside cabin. Going to hook it up at end of rail. There are no air leaks and the throttle body like rest of car has been refurbished. The last few days i have noticed it seems to do it after cornering mostly. I am assuming that points to fuel pump sock clogged or something like that.
                      The thing with testing the tps is that it seems random. I will have my adapter for fuel pressure gauge next week and then i will know what it is. Also why I don't think it is something electrical as if it was it would be random also while it is acting up and car be more jerky. Just my opinion though as i remember what a car feels like when u get random misfires or no fires. This is totally different. But on another note it is still possible. Next week i will know if it is fuel or something other. It does seem like it happens after cornering fast and slowing down. I am going to test that theory more and if it is true then it is fuel like Ali said.
                      Last edited by zedjr10; 08-05-2021, 11:04 PM.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
                        Ya, I almost agree with fuel but hard to say...... But looking at your plugs will tell you if it's an individual cylinder or not. So let's see some pics of the plugs please

                        https://honda-tech.com/how-tos/a/hon...itating-376002

                        We also need to talk about TPS sensor too. Easy to test with a volt meter, check your manual. You may have a bad spot starting. Your ECM may detect the air leak and is trying to compensate. But when you turn the car off / on the short term memory is lost and the car tries to learn it again. The car will always be trying to correct the error. With such a small random issue you may have to wait till it reveals itself. Even senior techs sometimes can't figure an issue out and only do once it reveals itself more.

                        If you took this to a shop they'd have the tools to figure this out pretty quick, assuming it's noticeable to the worker. Fuel gauge in-line tester, spark/ignition testing, put the car on the hoist and put it in gear while measuring fuel pressure, etc. They can just tackle so much more, quicker.

                        But ya....
                        - Pics of plugs
                        - Throttle body clean?
                        - No air leaks (after the map sensor)

                        And you're getting a fuel pressure gauge (but you can't read this when driving and your issue isn't at idle; so almost not point in getting one).

                        Lol, next time your driving and it does this, violently shake the car from side to side as much as you can! Does it help? (thinking dirty fuel sock)
                        in dash fuel pressure gauge installed and no problems with fuel pressure. It reads normal when sputtering happens. Am thinking it is something electrical. The ground that goes on top of valve cover. What components does this ground go to?

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by zedjr10 View Post

                          in dash fuel pressure gauge installed and no problems with fuel pressure. It reads normal when sputtering happens. Am thinking it is something electrical. The ground that goes on top of valve cover. What components does this ground go to?
                          Nothing. But you could check the transmission and battery grounds, but doubtful that is your issue. Next you'll be focusing on either distributor (spark) or injectors. Something that is causing sputtering when heating up etc. All I can really think of. With no check engine lights this is going to be one of those issues you throw parts at. ie - O2 sensor. But also not worth the $ until it presents itself further.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by Raf99 View Post

                            Nothing. But you could check the transmission and battery grounds, but doubtful that is your issue. Next you'll be focusing on either distributor (spark) or injectors. Something that is causing sputtering when heating up etc. All I can really think of. With no check engine lights this is going to be one of those issues you throw parts at. ie - O2 sensor. But also not worth the $ until it presents itself further.
                            it isn't the 02 and very unlikely the injectors as all cylinders or most seem to just stop firing. That dizzy i got is a cheap aftermarket one. The icm was replaced but what is that electrical component next to icm. Transmission ground has been ruled out also. So am just left with the dizzy. What is that electrical component next to ICM in dizzy? I wonder why car runs fine after restarting. Anyway as i got alot of spare parts i can just swap out if need be but am down to it being dizzy or a ground. So that ground on top of valve cover does nothing? Cause that bolt has been stripped and that ground isn't that secure. Hence why i ask.

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                              #29
                              The ignitor is in the distributor, maybe what you are thinking of. Maybe your clutch is slipping when it gets hot? I'm out of ideas...

                              Comment


                                #30
                                The valve cover ground is a body ground, if not installed the coolant can become electrically charged, and eventually electrolysis will cause problems ranging from eating a hole in your radiator or engine to causing your head gasket to fail. Other issues are possible, but I doubt it's the cause of your issue with sputtering.
                                Last edited by Size9zombie; 08-20-2021, 11:03 PM.
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