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Problem solving an under dash fuse/relay box.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    I mean, couldn't you just take a volt meter and test the voltage going to the relay and other parts of the box? Wiggle stuff etc. You should see 12V going into it....

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  • zedjr10
    replied
    Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
    Sounds like a relay problem for the starter .... have you tried another? Or you need to try a whole new fuse box.
    Oh yeah it is definitely a relay of some sort in the fuse box. Not the relay itself but the box itself. Which box though. The ICU or the outer fuse and relay box. I am thinking it is the outer fuse and relay box personally.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Sounds like a relay problem for the starter .... have you tried another? Or you need to try a whole new fuse box.
    Last edited by Raf99; 03-19-2023, 04:26 PM.

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  • zedjr10
    replied
    Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
    Hey, getting this box out is a pain in the asss. See my pics for that stupid yellow tab you need to release. You can't see up there so you're doing it all blind which is worse. In the end I took the whole unit out, keep in mind there are connections on the back too when removing the whole unit. And this box only controls small voltages, wipers, and such. This would not affect starting issues. Your starter issues sound like a key issue... the contacts in where the key goes is worn out.
    The other electrical issues could be that too as when the key is in ACC mode this is where some items turn on (radio, lights, etc.). The signal light ... not sure. Besides the starting issue it also sounds like you have a fuse box issue..
    I would start with the starting issue / key. Put a volt meter on something that activates when the key is turned to ACC and see if you can make it go on / off or is it random. Wiggle the key. There is also a 50amp ignition fuse in the fuse box i think... you should investigate that too
    I have already taken the whole fuse relay box out before and cleaned all the connections the best i could. Yes and it was a total pita. The starting issue is voltage going to solenoid. It isn't a key issue. It is in that fuse box as i can kick it to get it to get voltage to starter solenoid. It is either the fuse/relay box or the Integrated Control Unit that is inside the box or both that is causing all these weird electrical problems.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Hey, getting this box out is a pain in the asss. See my pics for that stupid yellow tab you need to release. You can't see up there so you're doing it all blind which is worse. In the end I took the whole unit out, keep in mind there are connections on the back too when removing the whole unit. And this box only controls small voltages, wipers, and such. This would not affect starting issues. Your starter issues sound like a key issue... the contacts in where the key goes is worn out.
    The other electrical issues could be that too as when the key is in ACC mode this is where some items turn on (radio, lights, etc.). The signal light ... not sure. Besides the starting issue it also sounds like you have a fuse box issue..
    I would start with the starting issue / key. Put a volt meter on something that activates when the key is turned to ACC and see if you can make it go on / off or is it random. Wiggle the key. There is also a 50amp ignition fuse in the fuse box i think... you should investigate that too

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  • zedjr10
    replied
    Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
    Ya.... you need to replace that brown box in the fuse box. Known to have issues or I should say I've seen others have issues. It controls the door sw, signals, marker lights, hazards, etc. Like the main relay it has solder issues I believe. It's a sealed unit too and very hard to get out. My battle lasted several hours on this (i did mine to add delay'd wipers). I will say this box has no relation to your AC relay / clutch issue.... that seems to be different. But the fact that you can kick this area and stuff starts working again = replace.





    Stupid SRS plug..


    What you are after - should replace.... i think

    I am just getting around to fixing these electrical issues and replacing what i need. I got a couple question. Do you think it is the fuse box or the ICU. Neither is cheap and i want to try to make sure i get it right. What is trick to getting ICU out. Just brute force? Last question i have is irradic working of starter starting. Does this go thru the icu in any way. I thought the icu was for small voltage management of components. Would a bad ICU even effect the starter working in any way?
    Ill list all my symptoms
    1. battery light on dash stays on even though alt is good.
    2. Car turns starter over irradicably. I have to keep turning key back and forth sometimes and eventually starter will turn(i have a manual tranny). Nothing wrong with starter or other things.
    3. Dome light doesn't always work with left door opened.
    4. lights on chime wasn't working but did after i cleaned some connection on fuse box some months ago.
    5. Left turn signal only working up front and right turn signal works fine. All of this is intermittent and i have to bang box with foot to get this limited functionality.
    Last edited by zedjr10; 03-16-2023, 12:01 AM.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    And I'm assuming prior when you put a volt meter on the output of the fuse it was reading low or intermittent? Vs now?

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  • zedjr10
    replied
    I took out box and cleaned all the connections and plugs. The erratic starter not turning over went away and the drivers side door being open and not turning on dome light went away also. So did the headlight on chime not working went away. My ac was just low on freon with a Schrader valve leak(stupid me). I still have the issue of turn signals not working. Probably the relay that i forgot to take off and clean or replace when i had the fuse box out. The batt light staying on in dash lights is still there. Not sure what is causing that. My alternator is working fine.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Ya.... you need to replace that brown box in the fuse box. Known to have issues or I should say I've seen others have issues. It controls the door sw, signals, marker lights, hazards, etc. Like the main relay it has solder issues I believe. It's a sealed unit too and very hard to get out. My battle lasted several hours on this (i did mine to add delay'd wipers). I will say this box has no relation to your AC relay / clutch issue.... that seems to be different. But the fact that you can kick this area and stuff starts working again = replace.





    Stupid SRS plug..


    What you are after - should replace.... i think


    Leave a comment:


  • zedjr10
    replied
    Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post

    It has been a long long time since I did it. Probably close to 10-15 years ago and I may have pulled the dash to make it a tab bit easier.
    pulled the whole dash to make it easier, haha funny.

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  • Grumpys93
    replied
    Originally posted by zedjr10 View Post

    It was a total pita to remove. I do have some pin corrosion on pins going to box and the connection itself. That rustic color shit that appears on car batteries(whatever it is). My ac clutch relay went out also and am wondering if i should just replace the whole relay. As i do not want to have to pull this box back out again.
    It has been a long long time since I did it. Probably close to 10-15 years ago and I may have pulled the dash to make it a tab bit easier.

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  • zedjr10
    replied
    Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
    It could be the fuse box itself. I use to have electrical gremlins back in the day and after I replaced the fuse box. Most went away, it’s not to hard to replace just take a pic of where the plugs go, even though most only fit in one way. And if I recall correctly it’s only 3 10mm bolts holding it in.
    It was a total pita to remove. I do have some pin corrosion on pins going to box and the connection itself. That rustic color shit that appears on car batteries(whatever it is). My ac clutch relay went out also and am wondering if i should just replace the whole relay. As i do not want to have to pull this box back out again.
    Last edited by zedjr10; 07-22-2022, 02:16 PM.

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  • zedjr10
    replied
    Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
    Ha.. ya. I won't lie and spent a good 3+ hours once trying to get something out up there. I couldn't find the tab, couldn't see it and needed a crowbar to activate the button..... the battle marks are still up there today..
    I already cut my srs plug. My airbag probably wont work anyways. Already spent a couple hours or more and still have 3 more plugs back there to pull out. I can't find a used fuse box anywhere so am just going to take it out and clean all the contacts off and examine the wires. I am wondering if all my issues i listed just go to one plug. Does anyone know. Headlight chime, battery, drivers side door open dome light, left turn signal and ac clutch relay. I think the clutch relay is has it's own relay but maybe the others go to one plug. Would suck to put it all back in and still some shit don't work right.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Ha.. ya. I won't lie and spent a good 3+ hours once trying to get something out up there. I couldn't find the tab, couldn't see it and needed a crowbar to activate the button..... the battle marks are still up there today..

    Leave a comment:


  • zedjr10
    replied
    btw that fuse box isn't easy to pull out. A real pita to pull those plugs out of the back with a clutch there.

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