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How difficult is a cam install?

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    #16
    Justin, you and mike should come up here and visit me. bring me my h23 trans too

    I can teach mike how to use wrinkle paint too

    CrzyTuning now offering port services

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      #17
      It really doesn't take long.

      Like they all have said. You need a good manual.

      Make sure you adhere COMPLETELY to the tightening sequence.

      Failure to do so will result in damage.

      I don't know about the others, but the helm's says to do everything in sequence 3 turns at a time. They are not kidding. At 3.5 turns, it starts to bind slightly.

      Also, do yourself a major favor and just replace timing belt if it has more than a few thousand miles on it.

      I would hate to see a "I installed my cam, and a couple days later by T-belt broke. WTB F22" thread.

      And yes, failure to use a torque wrench will result in damage.
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        #18
        Originally posted by DoctorCipher
        BTW you NEED a good torque wrench so you can tighten important fasteners like cam cap bolts to the proper spec. I even use it on the valve cover (9 ft. lbs., I think). If people did that, they wouldn't bitch about breaking the studs all the time like idiots.
        LOL! I thought I was about the only one that was that bad!

        And yes it is 9 ft/lbs.
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          #19
          I did mine in the driveway a year and a half ago. Damn thing still isn't running. Guess that makes me one of the idiots, huh?
          -Jay

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            #20
            Originally posted by Bluejayde
            I did mine in the driveway a year and a half ago. Damn thing still isn't running. Guess that makes me one of the idiots, huh?

            How did you do it?
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              #21
              is the timing belt not a whole other job in itself?


              "You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
              "the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
              "Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland

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                #22
                Originally posted by starchland
                is the timing belt not a whole other job in itself?

                In a manner yes, but realistically if you detension completely with a lot of miles on it, it is a good as removed. You aren't supposed to reuse them.

                A lot of people do with mixed results.

                It is really more of a preventative caution.

                He is actually going to have to remove it completely from the cam anyway, since that is coming out.

                I have seen attempts to try and line the belt back up after that, but it didn't quite make it back in the track completely, met something metal, the balance belt, or the cover and basically rubbed until it failed.

                More commonly, it ends up 1 tooth off on the timing, in which case you should pull the T-belt apart to verify all the marks again anyway.

                There is a right way to do it and a half-assed way. You might get lucky with the half-assed way, you might not. That is why it is half-assed.

                Realistically, it is a quick way to double check your work, prevent chaos, and if you end up one tooth off because you were lazy, have you really saved your self time or effort?

                Not in my book.

                I just waited until the belt and water pump were due anyway, to save time and money. But I was within a few thousand miles anyway, and I can understand not wanting to wait for a long time.
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                  #23
                  stop being a pussy
                  I <3 G60.

                  0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by DoctorCipher
                    You wouldn't have to ask simple (dumb) questions like that if you had yerself a good manual! Chiltons/factory/whatever

                    Go buy it and read it like a novel. If you truly like working on cars, and are cut out for it, you will enjoy doing that.

                    BTW you NEED a good torque wrench so you can tighten important fasteners like cam cap bolts to the proper spec. I even use it on the valve cover (9 ft. lbs., I think). If people did that, they wouldn't bitch about breaking the studs all the time like idiots.
                    Spoken like a true gentlemen and a scholar. I do the same.
                    HondaFan81 For Sale Parts (LOW PRICES ON EVERYTHING)

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                      #25
                      While you're in there, replace the lower spark plug tube seals while the entire rocker assembly is off. Perfect time to do that even if you weren't planning on it

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by Granite CB7
                        While you're in there, replace the lower spark plug tube seals while the entire rocker assembly is off. Perfect time to do that even if you weren't planning on it

                        Very very true
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                          #27
                          Originally posted by owequitit
                          How did you do it?
                          You mean how did I do the install, or how did I fuck it up?

                          If the former- In the snow, with numb fingers.

                          If the latter- I have no friggin' clue.
                          -Jay

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by Bluejayde
                            You mean how did I do the install, or how did I fuck it up?

                            If the former- In the snow, with numb fingers.

                            If the latter- I have no friggin' clue.
                            Can you retrace your steps?
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                              #29
                              Originally posted by owequitit
                              Can you retrace your steps?
                              http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=16000

                              This is the thread I made immediately after. I've been in just about every Delta 272 thread, so if you search that, you'll find my various problems and musings.

                              Basically, I put in the 272, it wouldn't idle unless the throttle cable was tightened enough to keep the car over 2Krpm. I got pissed off, bought a new car, and rebuilt the F22 from the headgasket up(And timing set as well), and now I've been trying for a year to get it together>started>running>idling>starting again.
                              -Jay

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by Bluejayde
                                http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=16000

                                This is the thread I made immediately after. I've been in just about every Delta 272 thread, so if you search that, you'll find my various problems and musings.

                                Basically, I put in the 272, it wouldn't idle unless the throttle cable was tightened enough to keep the car over 2Krpm. I got pissed off, bought a new car, and rebuilt the F22 from the headgasket up(And timing set as well), and now I've been trying for a year to get it together>started>running>idling>starting again.
                                Sounds like an EMS issue. Cisco (HondaFan81) had to have an ECU chipped and tuned for the car to run because the fueling requirements etc, were so much different. He could probably elaborate better, and in fact I think he did in the thread about his red project.

                                http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=24996
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