this is an extension to the original thread posted here by cpmike. the original DIY proved to be very helpful during my installation. i've just decided to add some more pictures that might be able to clarify some steps to further help out future installers in this task. btw, it took me 8 hours to install including wiring and a 1 hour dinner break (i'm very meticulous in what i do!).
here is my set of foglights prior to installation c/o olivrooom. they have no switch, and i'll be explaining later on how i made it work. they have the USDM curve...
...but something tells me this is still a JDM set. when i first placed the bracket against my USDM bumper, the top two corner tabs on the bracket didn't line up at all. i know it might be hard to see in the pic below but all the holes line up except for those top two corner tabs. cpmike explains this as well in his install in STEP 5.
here are some close ups of the misalignment. they are not even close to fitting. i'm assuming that JDM bumpers might have different provisions for it's brackets. can this mean that you don't need the JDM curve to have JDM foglights? or this may just mean that i have JDM brackets on USDM foglights
. anyway, notice that the bottom holes line up but not the top tab.
the misalignment causes the center tab of the bracket to misalign as well. the center tab uses one of the bolts that holds the bumper support to the car.
in cpmike's DIY, he mentions that the "brackets were bent out of the way, and only the 3 bottom screws and the top brace were used". that's exactly what i did. after bending the top two corner tabs out of the way, everything else lined up perfectly.
now that i knew the brackets were fine, it was time to cut out the hole. there is an outline on the back of the bumper and that's what i followed. there was no need to use a template, unless you have an aftermarket bumper. i used a 99cent saw and it worked great. it is better than using a dremel with a cutting bit, although it takes quite a bit longer and tires you out faster. i feel that i have more control with a saw though.
after cutting out the general shape, i used a dremel with a sanding cylinder just like cpmike stated to smoothen out the edges. do use goggles as debris fly everywhere. this is the final outcome.
i didn't have the rubber moldings to outline the foglights so i made sure to do a flawless job on the cuts. i think i did pretty well. here is how it looks mounted (note: i used #10 1/2" sheet metal screws for the three bottom holes on each bracket). it sat perfectly meaning the cutout outline provided by the factory is accurate.
after cutting out and fitting both sides, the foglights needed to be wired. i didn't have a premade wire harness kit like cpmike so i decided to make my own (refer to the thread in the lighting forum here for more insight). i ran wire from one fog to the other under the bumper core, then to the relay sitting in the engine bay. this way, there is only one set of wires are coming in putting less clutter in the engine bay. i used the following wiring setup. note that i wired the "without switch" option for now until i get an actual switch.
here is my set of foglights prior to installation c/o olivrooom. they have no switch, and i'll be explaining later on how i made it work. they have the USDM curve...
...but something tells me this is still a JDM set. when i first placed the bracket against my USDM bumper, the top two corner tabs on the bracket didn't line up at all. i know it might be hard to see in the pic below but all the holes line up except for those top two corner tabs. cpmike explains this as well in his install in STEP 5.
here are some close ups of the misalignment. they are not even close to fitting. i'm assuming that JDM bumpers might have different provisions for it's brackets. can this mean that you don't need the JDM curve to have JDM foglights? or this may just mean that i have JDM brackets on USDM foglights
. anyway, notice that the bottom holes line up but not the top tab.the misalignment causes the center tab of the bracket to misalign as well. the center tab uses one of the bolts that holds the bumper support to the car.
in cpmike's DIY, he mentions that the "brackets were bent out of the way, and only the 3 bottom screws and the top brace were used". that's exactly what i did. after bending the top two corner tabs out of the way, everything else lined up perfectly.
now that i knew the brackets were fine, it was time to cut out the hole. there is an outline on the back of the bumper and that's what i followed. there was no need to use a template, unless you have an aftermarket bumper. i used a 99cent saw and it worked great. it is better than using a dremel with a cutting bit, although it takes quite a bit longer and tires you out faster. i feel that i have more control with a saw though.
after cutting out the general shape, i used a dremel with a sanding cylinder just like cpmike stated to smoothen out the edges. do use goggles as debris fly everywhere. this is the final outcome.
i didn't have the rubber moldings to outline the foglights so i made sure to do a flawless job on the cuts. i think i did pretty well. here is how it looks mounted (note: i used #10 1/2" sheet metal screws for the three bottom holes on each bracket). it sat perfectly meaning the cutout outline provided by the factory is accurate.
after cutting out and fitting both sides, the foglights needed to be wired. i didn't have a premade wire harness kit like cpmike so i decided to make my own (refer to the thread in the lighting forum here for more insight). i ran wire from one fog to the other under the bumper core, then to the relay sitting in the engine bay. this way, there is only one set of wires are coming in putting less clutter in the engine bay. i used the following wiring setup. note that i wired the "without switch" option for now until i get an actual switch.
i added a link to this thread into the first post of my thread 
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