ENG: diy plenum spacer

[CB7lx91]

http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa_p...onGroupID=5750

which bolt...
27,28,29 or 30?

I'm guessing 30 because it looks the longest lol

[94Si]

look like 24 to me
hit up hardware store hope you have some luck

[Losiracer2]

yeah it looks like 24. the other ones are just for the bracket it seems. They look much shorter than what I got outta that 90' prelude at my JY.

[CB7lx91]

look like 24 to me
hit up hardware store hope you have some luck

I did, my local Napa only has one, and will charge me 14 bux to order another set of 10 because they don't want to only order one...and no prelude's in my junk yard.

So I'm going to stick it out and head over to Honda


thanks guys

[94Si]

It looks like the dual runner functionality open at the time any body knows why please explaine to thanks to team cb7

[lucid]

It looks like the dual runner functionality open at the time any body knows why please explaine to thanks to team cb7

-not completely sure I know what you're asking, but I hope this helps..

The dual runners are normally open. In a stock system, vacuum from the engine and power to the solenoid are both needed to hold the butterflies closed after engine start. When a set rpm is reached where more air is better, the ECU cuts the ground to the solenoid and they open naturally.

Having them open all the time or removed will usually make the low end response worse, but the high end and peak horsepower better.

I use a standalone system with a shift light to dial in where I want them to open, instead of the ECU.

[AllWhiteCoupe]

????? ^^^^

I think you mean the IAB's are always open?

If so, just put a vac line on the nipple when the car is running. Se if they close.

[94Si]

thanks Lucid
great info
I am 100% sure that my dual runner/butterflies open at all time, after engine start or 2 hrs driving it still open (I pop hood while engine running)
what could be the problems?
bad vacuum lines or a box under intake manifold doen't work right

ps my stock engine still good condition

mod plenum spacer from 93 ex
3mm circuit board gasket cnc homemade
K&N droped in
thanks team

[lucid]

thanks Lucid
great info
I am 100% sure that my dual runner/butterflies open at all time, after engine start or 2 hrs driving it still open (I pop hood while engine running)
what could be the problems?
bad vacuum lines or a box under intake manifold doen't work right

ps my stock engine still good condition

mod plenum spacer from 93 ex
3mm circuit board gasket cnc homemade
K&N droped in
thanks team

No problem, I had to figure all this out before. The first time I rewired the system, my IABs would close at VTEC instead of opening, and the engine would make all this noise but not go anywhere, haha.

Anyway. For a temporary fix, try routing the hose from the diaphram directly to the manifold. There should be enough vacuum to hold things closed at idle and light throttle.

To really get things working right, you're going to need to do some testing or parts swapping. I am assuming you are using a stock ECU and wiring system.

1) make sure the butterfly assembly is not seized by pushing the tab on the end of the plenum (while car is off, it's like a little throttle rotor).

2) disconnect the 2-pin connector from the IAB box/solenoid assembly under the intake manifold. If your hands are small enough, you can disconnect it from under the hood on the driver side, although you won't quite be able to see it. From underneath is probably easier once you're on jackstands.

3) get a multimeter, turn the ignition to ON, engine NOT running. Set the meter on DC volts, ground the black probe, and check for battery power at the black wire with yellow stripe of the IAB connector.

4) If there is battery voltage, turn ignition off and plug connector back in.
If there isn't, you have a break in the power wire

5) Make sure all your vacuum lines are routed properly and not full of holes. If things still aren't working, I would swap the box and / or solenoids if possible. I had a box with a bad solenoid on my JDM motor, the H23 and F22 ones are the same.
It is worth mentioning that there are other solenoids on the car that are unneeded ( the intake-air crap box mounted above the trans mount, for example) and can probably be used just as well. Also keep in mind that if it seems like a PITA to get to all this crap, it is. But there is no reason you couldn't mount the box on the top side of the engine bay, and extend 2 wires and 2 vacuum hoses.
I have the factory service manual I can look in for more info, I think they may use a vacuum gauge to test. The easiest way to test the system is in a longer gear and with your ear, but you can kick the IABs open even at 0mph (unlike stock vtec). That means you could pop the hood and (have a friend) bring the revs up to about 5k to see things move.

I hope this helps. For a daily driver, IABs make a nicer ride.

[91-accord]

where could I find these spacers and what exactly does this mod do?

[KeeleDesign]

it makes your runners longer, in short giving more botoom end power.

the longer they are, you get more power in the lower rpm's the shorter they are, the more power you get in the upper rpm's

If you buy the blaktrax spacer made of a plastic material then you will also benifit from it's cooling aspects, and on a na motor this really does help..


i personally would buy a blacktrax spacer and delete the oem one keeping it stock length and add say a hondata intake gasket to also help power instead of changing the powerband

[93twodoorLX]

hey guys. I just did this DIY on my car.(seriously finished it like 5 mins ago) Instead of going through all the bullshit of getting OEM honda bolts i just went on blacktrax.com and contacted them about buying an extended bolt kit that they offer by itself. 10 bucks, cant beat it, anyway here is my setup and impression on the diy

f22a1
AEM short ram (w/dryflow filter)
F22a6 lower plenum (runners)
H22a Upper plenum
H22a Throttle Body
IAB box delete (butterflies closed at idle, and open about 2700-3000 rpm)
DIY plenum spacer stacker ontop of OEM IAB plate
Blacktrax IMS extended bolt kit
egay header with DEI wrap
2.25" exhaust.
Advanced ignition timing 1 degree (16 degress BTDC)
Hondata IM gasket
all coolant lines removed from IM

So the car has a little more tone at idle, very very subtle but i notice it. It DEFINATELY has more low end now, its really noticable on my setup, before it had a little lag to the go pedal but now its more "sensitive" i guess you could say. there is more torque then before from about 2000-6400 (I dont shift higher then that). all in all its a decent mod all the way across the power band, it doesnt really "move" it as keele thinks, it actually allows you to make more use of the entire thing. Also to get a hondata gasket AND a blacktrax spacer for heat transfer would be a little redundant. I would say the DIY w/ a phenolic gasket such as bisimoto or hondata would be ideal and cost effective. DIY gets my approval

-sean

[ikayto]

hey guys. I just did this DIY on my car.(seriously finished it like 5 mins ago) Instead of going through all the bullshit of getting OEM honda bolts i just went on blacktrax.com and contacted them about buying an extended bolt kit that they offer by itself. 10 bucks, cant beat it, anyway here is my setup and impression on the diy

f22a1
AEM short ram (w/dryflow filter)
F22a6 lower plenum (runners)
H22a Upper plenum
H22a Throttle Body
IAB box delete (butterflies closed at idle, and open about 2700-3000 rpm)
DIY plenum spacer stacker ontop of OEM IAB plate
Blacktrax IMS extended bolt kit
egay header with DEI wrap
2.25" exhaust.
Advanced ignition timing 1 degree (16 degress BTDC)
Hondata IM gasket
all coolant lines removed from IM

So the car has a little more tone at idle, very very subtle but i notice it. It DEFINATELY has more low end now, its really noticable on my setup, before it had a little lag to the go pedal but now its more "sensitive" i guess you could say. there is more torque then before from about 2000-6400 (I dont shift higher then that). all in all its a decent mod all the way across the power band, it doesnt really "move" it as keele thinks, it actually allows you to make more use of the entire thing. Also to get a hondata gasket AND a blacktrax spacer for heat transfer would be a little redundant. I would say the DIY w/ a phenolic gasket such as bisimoto or hondata would be ideal and cost effective. DIY gets my approval

-sean

how did you do the iab box delete?

You just ran the hose from the intake manifold straight to the nipple of the iab plate?

[KeeleDesign]

hey guys. I just did this DIY on my car.(seriously finished it like 5 mins ago) Instead of going through all the bullshit of getting OEM honda bolts i just went on blacktrax.com and contacted them about buying an extended bolt kit that they offer by itself. 10 bucks, cant beat it, anyway here is my setup and impression on the diy

f22a1
AEM short ram (w/dryflow filter)
F22a6 lower plenum (runners)
H22a Upper plenum
H22a Throttle Body
IAB box delete (butterflies closed at idle, and open about 2700-3000 rpm)
DIY plenum spacer stacker ontop of OEM IAB plate
Blacktrax IMS extended bolt kit
egay header with DEI wrap
2.25" exhaust.
Advanced ignition timing 1 degree (16 degress BTDC)
Hondata IM gasket
all coolant lines removed from IM

So the car has a little more tone at idle, very very subtle but i notice it. It DEFINATELY has more low end now, its really noticable on my setup, before it had a little lag to the go pedal but now its more "sensitive" i guess you could say. there is more torque then before from about 2000-6400 (I dont shift higher then that). all in all its a decent mod all the way across the power band, it doesnt really "move" it as keele thinks, it actually allows you to make more use of the entire thing. Also to get a hondata gasket AND a blacktrax spacer for heat transfer would be a little redundant. I would say the DIY w/ a phenolic gasket such as bisimoto or hondata would be ideal and cost effective. DIY gets my approval

-sean

using the hondata gasket with the blacktrax spacer is far from redundant. Thus the purpose of making all new cars out of the same plastic material from top to bottom.
creating such an intake, is like having 200 of these spacers.
I trully doubt car manufacturers said, hey that entire plastic intake with a plastic throttle body is a little overkill /redundant.

and yes it does change your powerband..

Just because you don't rev past 6400 rpm's doesn't mean other people don't, heck your only in vtec for a 1,000 rpm's.
I am sure you do feel a better throttle response with this setup due to the lower shift points you go to.
You would also do well with the h23/h22 hybrid, due to the same scenario.

As for me, the idea is to get my most power on the top end, and to do so, this is not the performance trick for that.

basically once vtec kicks in the longer your runners, including your CAI your motor begins to starve for air and and fighting the stupid long piping to get it in a fast as possible,,

thus the design and make for ITB's

[93twodoorLX]

ok so what im going to do instead of over generalize and make senerios im going to say again that i was giving MY impression on the DIY, I explained how i felt about it on MY f22a1 not h22 or h23 or VTAK JDMness. and also in respects to your claims that it "moves" your power band, then yes you are partially right, BUT it does not take any power away from any part of you powerband. i suggest you study the dyno chart my friend

http://www.blacktrax.net/productlink..._IMSF22A6.html

the addition of the spacer moved the peak power sooner in the powerband but it did not rob HP OR TQ from anywhere in the entire powerband. In respects to the redundancy factor you are utterly misunderstanding me yet again, I said that they are a redundancy in HEAT TRANSFER, NOT radiant heat which you are obviously making reference of i'd say. Like i tried to help everyone understand is that metal touching metal is heat transfer which the phenolic spacer reduces, I'd rather protect the ENTIRE manifold from heat transfer rather then just the upper plenum, plus with most members having coolant line attached to the upper plenum the a phenolic IMS is fighting the inevitable because it like locking your doors with a robber IN your house. you dont have to take my criticism of your misunderstanding personal, your theory just seems a little uninformed. I'm not sure how else to acurately explain myself.

-sean