ok i know now one fn reads this thread, but im gonna ask just in the hopes someone might help me with one of my questions... i got all ym shit hooked up, my homie suggested that i keep the h23 throttle rotor (the part the cables hook up to at the throttle body) on instead of switchin to the f22... well i tried to start my car and it took a few seconds but it started... then it jumped up to 5k rmp, so i shut it down, then i figured the throttle cable was too tight, so i loosened it... tried to start again, revved to 3k... now it wont go below that... im saying fuck it and im going to switch the rotors ..... i am kinda stuck as to how to remove them from the throttle bodies... someone pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease help.
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ENG: H23 Intake Manifold Swap (56K die!!!)
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You should be able to use the h23 TB and rotor. As for the high rpms,
check
: All vacuum ports(pcv, cruise control, butterflies..) and cap off any unused ports because they DO make a difference. Also, make sure all gaskets have been crushed properly meaning the plenum and runners are on as well as the whole assembly to the head. Next, check your fast idle valve. Its the one underneath the h23 TB. Open it up and turn the white plunger all the way tight. After all course adjustments have been made, you could mess with the idle screw for fine tuning.
...adjust accordingly
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Check earlier in this thread, its easy to remove the rotors
post #115, http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showpost...&postcount=115
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.
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thanks for the help.
Linx: i took a 2nd look over the manifold... i noticed the IAT sensor wasnt plugged in... BONEHEAD MISTAKE. i didnt notice of course until i drained all my fluid... so now im going to autozone to buy more. im guessing that would probably be why it was revving so high? im still not sure if thats it but at this point im near positive that all the vacuum lines are hooked up correctly. one thing i did differently though is that i i hooked up on the back nipple of the manifold to the engine mount control solenoid valve which runs down to the control box then back up to the diaphram.. is that wrong?
heres some pics:
accordaffair: thanks i found that immediately after i posted, i tried to delete it.
again, thanks to everyone helpin out, im poppin my cherry on this one, this is the first time i ever dived into engine components like coolant system and vacuum system. the most i had done before this was electrical work which is easy, cai/h/e, so my experience with the motor is pretty limited. i really apreciate everything.
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I believe they recommend leaving the air boost filtered but open to breath, instead of capped, but I don't think it will matter much.
Feel free to connect to any open nipple, they all do the same thing.
The mount solenoid looks right, top hose to the mount, bottom hose to a nipple...
Make sure the coolant lines and vacuum lines are in the right places, make sure its torqued down right (plenum to mani, mani to head)
Should be ready to go
also, an aside about the rotors...the prelude rotor spring and the accord rotor springs are different. Prelude is stiffer. I used the prelude for a while, but found I didn't like it. Switched back to accord, which has less feedback I suppose but its more refined, you barely feel the pedal, just feels more luxorious to me...Last edited by accordaffair; 11-22-2006, 11:15 PM.
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.
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could the tps not being set do this? im trying to set it but i cant get anything above .18 or .19 volts with out unbolting it and turning it just slightly past where the screw openings end on the sensor.
im pretty positive ive got every coolant line hooked up correctly... the vacuum lines also... ill double check again... this is gettin a lil aggravating, especially since i know its something that I did wrong
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I must not have read everything before, I didn't know you were having a problem.
I never set my tps, and this is the third TB I've gone to (a1/a6/h23)
You said adjusting your throttle cable helped, try disconnecting it. Then, adjust the idle screw.
Make sure the stop screw on the rotor is set right. Take off the rotor and look for a significant gap while the throttle is closed. Say, by holding to the light and looking for light shining through. This is hand in hand with making sure the stop screw is set correctly. You may need to adjust it. I had to. The difference in rotors was significant enough to leave a fairly large gap. You'll need a socket or wrench to undo the nut, and an Allen wrench to adjust the stop screw. Be careful though, I ruined one TB because the screw wouldn't come loose and the Allen head stripped.
Make sure the throttle cable is not too tight, I believe there should be 2-3 mm of deflection. Make sure your gaskets are in good shape (should be new) and not leaky, and be sure you have all bolts and all are torqued enough (just enough, don't muscle them)
After my a6 install I had a high idle because I didn't torque the bolts enough (and I was missing 2 )
After the h23, I had to correct the coolant lines, and then later correct the TB.
You'll tackle this monster in no time I'm sure.
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.
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The a1 to a6 is a little less likely to err, but once you get it sorted it will be like no big deal.
I barely remember stressing over my ordeals, but I know I did run into problems. Of course over time they got sorted out.
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.
Comment
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k i just got it down to 900 rpm at idle in park/nuetral, about 1100 in gear.. my homie and i just took it for a test drive but its shifting really wierd. 1st gear shifts from about 3k-5k... no higher, 2nd gear the same except 5k'ish, 3rd goes up to about 5400 and no higher... it really sucks. then it kinda dances around the gears a lil bit. but all in all, i love it, the mod looks better, sounds better and i can definately feel the pull. im gonna try to tighten the throttle cable a lil bit because it feels like it floats around a lil bit.
thanks for the help
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Originally posted by UrDoneSRHk i just got it down to 900 rpm at idle in park/nuetral, about 1100 in gear.. my homie and i just took it for a test drive but its shifting really wierd. 1st gear shifts from about 3k-5k... no higher, 2nd gear the same except 5k'ish, 3rd goes up to about 5400 and no higher... it really sucks. then it kinda dances around the gears a lil bit. but all in all, i love it, the mod looks better, sounds better and i can definately feel the pull. im gonna try to tighten the throttle cable a lil bit because it feels like it floats around a lil bit.
thanks for the help
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