Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

ENG: H22 Euro R IM

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    ENG: H22 Euro R IM

    I figured since I don't see any DIY for the H22 Euro R IM and decided that I'll go ahead and do one. This DIY will also give those of you who are unsure an idea how things will look like and what will be needed and what not to make this installation a breeze. I bought this whole Euro R IM kit from Roskoracing.com. It comes with everything you need to make it work.

    **NOTE**: This Euro R IM has been modified to be slap onto the H22 head with no problem. An unmodified version from Hmotors or from any other place besides Roskoracing will need to be worked on before it can sit flush against the H22 head.

    Tools Needed:
    -3/8 Ratchet
    -Sockets; 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
    -10mm & 12mm combination wrench
    -3/8 extensions
    -Pry Bar
    -Philips & Flat Head screwdrivers
    -Razor Blade or Gasket Scraper
    -16 gauge wires
    -Wire Cutter & Stripper tool
    -5/16 or 8mm & at least 4 foot long coolant hoses(x2)
    -Allen Wrenches
    -Hot Soapy Water
    -Coolant

    Before you start, make sure the engine is cold & remove the fuel filler cap to release the tank pressure:



    I start out by removing the throttle cable and move it out of the way:



    Remove your intake assembly out of the way; mine's a SRI so it takes me couple sec to get it out:



    Then, I went and unbolt the IACV. Unbolt the two 12mm bolts:





    Then I disconnected both the MAP and TP sensors off the TB:



    Remove the brake booster hose off the IM:



    Once thats done, I went ahead and unbolt the five plenum bolts. It's either 10 or 12mm bolts:



    Lift the upper plenum off and out of the way:



    It's time to unbolt the three fuel rail bolts. 10mm:



    Once that's done, I lifted the injectors and rail off as one piece:



    Then it's time to unbolt the IM 12mm bolts. Four up top and six on the bottom and unbolt the 12mm bolt off the IM Support Brace underneath then use the pry bar to lightly pry the IM off:





    It should look like this once the IM is out, and don't forget to plug up the intake ports:



    This is where the hot/warm soapy water comes in to soak up the old gasket. Some uses gasket remover stuff whichever works for you but I did my way for free. It takes alot of time and patience to get all the old gasket off and this takes the longest:



    Once the mating surface is clean, install your new intake mani gasket. I used Rosko's Thermal IM gasket that came with the package:



    Here is a side by side shot of the Stock VS Euro R IM:





    Now, it's time to prep the IACV adapter plate. Here I used the red high temp RTV sealant for gasket between the IM & IACV adapter plate so it doesn't have any vacuum leak:



    I went ahead and installed the IACV adapter plate and IACV onto the Euro R IM:



    I went ahead and transfered my TB over to the new IM. Now is also the time to clean, lube, and install the injector o-rings onto your new IM:



    Be sure to remove the towels you stucked inside the intake ports before you installed the IM. I made the mistake of not doing so, and realized that I didn't after I bolted the new IM on. It sucks! Good thing I caught myself though. Get your IM in and against the head:





    Go ahead and install those 10 12mm bolts. Start from the center out when tightening and once that is all done, you're ready to re-install your injectors and fuel rail assembly but this time you'll need to use the allen wrenches to tighten down the rail cause of Rosko's fancy Allen Screws:





    Next....

    Originally posted by toycar
    Braking the bank, maybe. Feeling like a boss, likely.

    #2
    Here, I didn't have an FITV due to the Skunk2 68mm TB I'm using, so I just route the hoses straight to their appropriate spout. Use the two 5/16 coolant hoses and route the hoses from the IACV spout to their appropriate coolant spout on the engine side as shown in the diagram. IACV spout #1 goes to #1 spout on the t-stat housing while #2 of the IACV goes to#2 on the t-stat housing. Just hose them accordingly as shown:



    Plug in the IACV connector. I found out that your IACV will be rubbing/touching the heater core spout/hose. I didn't do anything about cause I don't want to be replacing the heater core. I also don't think you CB guys will have this issue since you guys have a bigger bay??:



    **NOTE**: You won't be able to use your IM Support Brace thats underneath it. It's way too short. What you can do is get two longer bolts and use tons of washers to get it to work or you can fab up your own support brace for the Euro R mani. I talked to Shawn Rosko and he said that he didn't even run that brace underneath it, and so I decided to not run mine as well.

    Then tighten down your engine harness ground which would be for the ECU. Make sure it's tight or it won't create spark:





    Now onto the throttle cable. If you're still running the 5th Gen Accord throttle cable, it will be tooooo long, and you won't be able to drive the car. This is what I did for temporary til I get my 4th Gen Prelude throttle cable. It'll work to be DD/Cruise, but if you WOT the bracket will move and it'll create lots of free play on your gas pedal:



    Once that is done, install your intake assembly, connect the MAP & TP sensors(don't get them mixed up or it'll run like sh*t). If your IACV & IAT sensor connectors won't reach their sensors, you'll need to extend them. Add & bleed your coolant system since there's air inside the system. You should be ready to roll out! Make sure to do key cycle to charge up your fuel lines and make sure there's no fuel leak before starting up the engine:

    Before:



    After:





    Enjoy your new Euro R IM!

    Originally posted by toycar
    Braking the bank, maybe. Feeling like a boss, likely.

    Comment


      #3
      Nice job, you will b helping a lot of ppl on here who are willing oto learn.
      **Blk Housed Slut Crew Member #1**

      **Don't b scared be prepared for the worst**
      Da Drizzle's Sedan - Dr. Diy's Blk Housed Thread

      '90 2Tone Coupe-Car Heaven_'89 Lude-Junk Yard
      Mostly Usdm, some Jdm,Edm,&Puerto Rican RICE

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by F20A CB7 View Post
        Nice job, you will b helping a lot of ppl on here who are willing oto learn.
        Thankyou.

        This is why I decided to do this DIY while I'm at it so that it'll answer most of those who aren't sure what's gonna be needed and what not.

        Originally posted by toycar
        Braking the bank, maybe. Feeling like a boss, likely.

        Comment


          #5
          good diy man. how does it feel with the euro r manifold? and isnt that a skunk2 tb? i was wondering why the map sensor was on the bottom. please shine in

          Comment


            #6
            Hey! Rosko is from Iowa

            Yes my name is Dang, Don't use in vain
            1992 Honda Accord EX (Coupe/Bordeaux/Auto)
            1992 Honda Accord EX (Coupe/Bordeaux/H22A MT)
            2008 Honda Accord EXL (Coupe/SanMarino/6spd)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by F20A CB7 View Post
              Nice job, you will b helping a lot of ppl on here who are willing oto learn.
              x2, ill be looking forward to do this mod..
              AT WEST COAST MEET

              cb7rush: who has the tongs?
              JDMxDB8: i got a thong on...



              to get to see more of my cb click the link below.
              http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=130922

              Comment


                #8
                lol well I just found out why I had to have my cable bracket like you do haha well great DIY should help anyone on here who wants to get a euro R mani

                PSN ID's:Tidashoni
                1992 Accord EX Coupe
                My FS Thread
                Not so DD 2013 Subaru Impreza WRX STI
                Originally posted by deevergote
                Boosting with a carb is like being a sniper with a bazooka... it works, it gets the job done, but it's not the most precise method.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by oneoffaccord View Post
                  good diy man. how does it feel with the euro r manifold? and isnt that a skunk2 tb? i was wondering why the map sensor was on the bottom. please shine in
                  It feels awesome with the Euro R IM. Pulls and feels stronger IMO. And yes, it's a Skunk2 68mm TB and the Euro R IM is portmatched for optimum flow. About the MAP sensor, they all come like that for a cleaner look under the bay and Skunk2 also had their logo etched on top of the TB.

                  Originally posted by vietkid_2006 View Post
                  Hey! Rosko is from Iowa
                  HAHA! I just realize that you live there too!

                  Originally posted by iwork4mycb7 View Post
                  x2, ill be looking forward to do this mod..
                  I totally recommend it and it's pretty straight forward.


                  Originally posted by almostJDM View Post
                  lol well I just found out why I had to have my cable bracket like you do haha well great DIY should help anyone on here who wants to get a euro R mani
                  Lol. Yup, I tried the 4th Gen Lude cable and won't close the TB; since, its a tad too short. So I went back to using my 5th Gen Accord throttle cable.

                  Originally posted by toycar
                  Braking the bank, maybe. Feeling like a boss, likely.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Finally go it tuned!

                    Red(68mm Ported Euro R) VS Blue(69mm Ported Stock IM w/ Blacktrax IAB Spacer):



                    By looking at this, I picked up a huge midrange and lost a bit up top.

                    Originally posted by toycar
                    Braking the bank, maybe. Feeling like a boss, likely.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      damn this is nice..

                      Comment


                        #12
                        What did you do with the IAB setup from the stock H22 manifold? Since you had the car tuned, did you just disable IAB or does not having it hooked up not throw a CEL? If you had it disabled, I'm assuming you have a P28 ecu and not the stock P13? What about the purge solenoid, did you have to do anything special with that?

                        Awesome write-up, thanks for posting!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          IAB's do not throw CEL's.

                          that torque increase is absolutely AMAZING!!
                          _

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by deramansa View Post
                            damn this is nice..
                            Thanks!

                            Originally posted by Acclude1420 View Post
                            What did you do with the IAB setup from the stock H22 manifold? Since you had the car tuned, did you just disable IAB or does not having it hooked up not throw a CEL? If you had it disabled, I'm assuming you have a P28 ecu and not the stock P13? What about the purge solenoid, did you have to do anything special with that?

                            Awesome write-up, thanks for posting!
                            Yes, I'm running a P28 chip ECU that basically disable IABs and at the time of runnin the stock IM, I hooked it up by vacuum. The Purge Solenoid, is untouched. I don't remember what I did with it but if I remember correctly, I capped it and the P28 ECU disable it as well.

                            Originally posted by KB7Acoord View Post
                            IAB's do not throw CEL's.

                            that torque increase is absolutely AMAZING!!
                            Thanks man. The car didn't run as strong as it's number has shown on the street due to valve timing being off a few teeths while it was getting a tuned. I was amazed that it still made 203whp/172wtq tuned on the dynojet though.

                            I'll be getting another tune late in Aug though now that I have the valve timing corrected.

                            Originally posted by toycar
                            Braking the bank, maybe. Feeling like a boss, likely.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Ok, boys. After properly getting my engine dead on with it's timing mark and what not, I finally got my car retuned since the last guy who tuned my car won't touch it again. I had it tuned at a different shop recommended by many of my guys. I was told that this DynoDynamic reads alot lower than DynoJet. So I'll be seeing close to 214whp if it was a dynojet, but I have no clue if it's true between the two dyno.

                              Base Pull VS Final Pull:


                              Before & After; AFR:


                              The last tuned I was at made tons of torque(172wtq), but it was slow on the street due to valve timing not being TDC. I haven't test out my car yet with this new tuned I got. We'll see though.

                              Originally posted by toycar
                              Braking the bank, maybe. Feeling like a boss, likely.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X