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ENG : 5 Speed Transmission Conversion

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    ENG : 5 Speed Transmission Conversion

    This is a DIY to help those needing assistance with swapping a 5 speed transmission into a 90-93 Accord.

    This DIY is from start to finish. There are other DIYs on CB7tuner however the information is not all in one place and are lacking pictures. This is my reasoning behind making another DIY.


    -Metric socket set 8mm+
    -Metric wrench set
    -36mm impact socket
    -Breaker bar
    -Needle nose pliers
    -Floor jack(s)
    -Leather gloves (for dealing with heat shield).
    -Welder (If not using ESP or Innovative passenger side mount).
    -Drill bits
    -Flat head screw driver.
    -PB Blaster (Optional of course).
    -Hammer (Rubber or claw).
    -Objects to drive seals in.
    -Emery paper
    -Torque wrench in ftlbs.
    -Vise Grips
    -Electrical tape
    -Wire cutters


    -5 Speed transmission (H2A5 or H2U5).
    -Appropriate passenger side mount for the transmission you are using.
    -Passenger side bracket. (Swap mount from Innovative or ESP.) I will be using a factory bracket in this swap).
    -DX/LX 5 speed rear mount.
    -DX/LX 5 speed rear T bracket.
    -5 Speed starter.
    -Lower 5 speed starter bolt. (Refereed to as the long transmission bolt).
    -Shifter assembly.
    -Shifter assembly bolts & rubber bushings.
    -Shifter C clips, 4 total. They are all the same.
    -Shifter cables.
    -Shift knob.
    -Shift boot.
    -Shift boot retaining ring with two phillips screws.
    -Four shifter C clips. (One for each cable at each end).
    -Clutch kit. (Pressure plate, clutch disc).
    -Clutch release bearing.
    -Pressure plate bolts.
    -5 speed flywheel bolts.
    -Clutch line (Valexracing on ebay or a custom bent-it-yourself hard line).
    -Clutch pedal assembly.
    -5 Speed brake pedal arm.
    -Clutch slave cylinder.
    -Clutch master cylinder.
    -5 speed driver side CV shaft.
    -Intermediate shaft and 3 bolts.
    -Clutch fork, spring and boot.
    -Clutch hard line from slave cylinder to top of trans.
    -Clutch rubber line from top of transmission. (End that attaches to top of trans has a banjo style fitting).
    -5 speed inspection plate. (I have heard it called a bell housing.)
    -Cotter pins.


    -Clutch. You will want a good quality clutch and good quality parts. This is very important. Exedy, Daikin, LUK, Clutchmasters, Competition Clutches, even a Sachs. Use the appropriate stage or performance level for the power your making. Higher performance clutches are harder on the mating surface of the flywheel.

    -Clutch release bearing. I have heard the bearing that comes with the Exedy clutch kits is a Nachi. I went with Koyo. $30 shipped.

    -Flywheel. You can go OE weight or a lighter weight aftermarket. Again, you will want a good quality flywheel. When a LUK is $50 shipped there is no excuse. You can also get an aftermarket Fidanza for $160ish shipped. With flywheels you want to see if it has timing marks before you install it. Some do not but they can be modified to have them. I used a Duralast due to last minute bullshit with a F1 Racing flywheel. Works great!

    -Clutch slave cylinder. You will want a new one. I have used Centric in the past. $15 IIRC. It worked but not what I recommend. I got a Daikin/Exedy for $30 shipped. Its painted unlike the Centric one I had so it wont rust.

    -Clutch master cylinder. You will want a new one not used as this part sucks and you won't want to do it anytime in the near future. You can get a Exedy/Daikin clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder together from Gripforce on Ebay for $55 shipped. Thats what I recommend.

    -Engine mounts. You can get good ones or cheap ones and urethane fill them. I had good OEM ones so I used them. I seen a set of DX/LX 5 speed engine mounts in a complete set on Ebay for $90 shipped. If I didn't have good mounts I would have bought those and a couple tubes of Betaseal U-428.

    -Rear main/crankshaft seal. You want a damn good rear crankshaft seal. I used an ARS (Arai Seisakusho) rear main seal. OEM will also work great. I believe ARS is OEM, not positive but either will work. I paid $25 shipped for my ARS rear crankshaft seal.

    -Transmission seals. There is a shift rod seal, and two output/drive axle seals that need to be replaced. I used an Ishino right and an ARS left. I got both for $25 shipped. I used a NOK shift rod seal. The input shaft seal is internal. No need to replace it unless its leaking. I do not cover that in this DIY and its not a real common problem that I am aware of.


    -Blue thread locker.
    -Hondabond HT sealant.
    -2 Quarts of Genuine Honda MTF or Syncromesh. I used Honda MTF.
    -Dot 3 brake fluid.


    -ESP or Innovative driver side mount. You will need to contact ESP or Innovative as for which mount you need. I did not go this route so this will not be covered in this DIY. However everything else is just the same. You use your mount while the rest of us remove, relocate and weld brackets.

    -Rear main/crankshaft seal case gasket set. Part number: BS40430. I went this route as I had another issue with the end of the crankshaft. My rear main seal was so bad it wore a groove in the crankshaft. I used the gaskets that came in the Fel-Pro kit at Autozone and didn't use the seal. I did this to space the seal case out just a bit, therefore the seal as well to get the seal to ride on a slightly different spot of the crank. You can read more on this in the rear main part of this DIY.


    The first thing you will want to do is acquire a transmission and the related parts. I'm up in the air about whether to start on automatic transmission removal first or prepping your parts for installation. Since it's more common for people to continue to drive their Accord while acquiring the funds and the parts required for this conversion I'm going to start with the prepping first.

    You will want a 5 speed transmission. An H2U5 or H2A5 is probably what most of you will use. You want to try and get it from a good source as you don't want a bad one. Mine came from a car that I own that got totaled. More on that later but I knew it was good and that's my point.

    Below is my H2A5 in the back of my pickup, all dirty and nasty.


    First go ahead and clean the transmission up. Most of the time they have 20 years of road grime and dirt on them. You want to get it pretty clean. You don't want a bunch of shit getting into the transmission when you open it up. Which you will be doing later. Remember to plug the holes where the CV shaft/intermediate shafts go in before you spray it. I used the rubber stoppers off the bottom of a chair and electrical tape. Also plug the hoses coming off the VSS. I used some bolts. Remove the clutch fork, spring and boot too. It's pictured later in this DIY so don't worry about which way it goes.

    Below are some photos of the objects I used to plug the CV/intermediate shaft holes.


    Below is my transmission after some Simple Green and the car wash. I clean it up further but this will do.


    Take your new CV shaft seals and find something to push on them with. Pictures are better at explaining this. I made my "object". You want to push on them to the outer side. The middle is fine but the middle towards the outside is best.

    Now that you have something to drive your new seals in its time to pry your old seals out CAREFULLY. There are seal pullers you can use. If your careful you can use a flat head screwdriver as I did. Pry on one side a bit, then the other. This is refered to as "wallering" or "waller" it out where I live. That's the best way I can describe it. Walk it out? I don't know...

    Below is the intermediate shaft side with the seal out.

    The passenger side CV shaft seal with the seal out.

    The seals are different sizes! They are close so you will have to size both up to which ever side you do first. You will know when you have the right one (if you have any sense). You can also look up part numbers or whatever you have to do to keep them straight. One will go, one won't.

    Clean the holes out first! Below shows how this is done. Tap in a circle on the object while against the seal until the seal sits down in the recessed hole. You will hear the sound change to a more solid tap and the seal will not proceed to go any further once its reached the proper depth. Do not use excessive force.

    And the seals are in. These pictures should give you a better idea of the proper depth for the seals.

    Passenger side CV shaft seal.

    Driver side intermediate shaft seal.

    Now use some paint caps and paper tape (or anything else that serves this purpose) as I did to keep dirt and debris out of the trans while you do the rest.


    Now your ready for the shift rod seal. Get cleaned up, put some rubber gloves on if you have them and get comfortable. What your about to do can screw you around real good if you don't do exactly as I say and read this before you do it.

    You need a 10mm and a 12mm socket. A 12mm 6 point is preferred. Also if you have your MTF already purchased grab a bottle of it too, crack the cap open and pour a bit in the cap and have it on hand. You also need your Hondabond HT sealant.

    Remove the bolts with the red dots in the picture below.

    Now you will need to pry this cover off. Below is how I did this with an extension.

    The cover will come off. You will need to wiggle the fork selector on top of this cover when you go to pull it off.

    Bend this tab back like so with your flat head screw driver.

    Now you can access the 12mm bolt with your 12mm 6 point socket. PAY ATTENTION! Before you get the bolt all the way out you need to grab a hold of the metal piece which staked the bolt in place like so. If not it will fall in the trans and your screwed.

    With this 12mm bolt and the lock out you can now pull the shift lever out. Twisting as you pull lightly straight out.

    Pull the shift lever boot off and now you can access the seal. You can waller this seal out with a flat head screw driver as well. Once the seal is out clean the hole. Find an object to drive this seal in. A flat washer works great. Tap it in until it fits like so. Remember not too far! If you drive it in all the way flush you wont be able to put the boot back on as the boot installs on the lip of the seal between the transmission case and the seal.

    Install the shift lever boot. Note the hole goes down.

    Lube the shaft and the seal up with your MTF and install the shift lever. Carefully twisting and pushing gently. Making sure its lined up with the interlock properly. Remember the end on the shift lever that the shifter cable attaches to goes to the top!

    Line the hole up in the shaft, put the bolt through the lock and then get the bolt started. Making sure not to drop the lock into the transmission.

    Don't forget to bend the lock tab back over after torquing bolt down. I went to 45ftlbs as that's about what I felt it was when I went to remove it.

    Use a rag and stuff in the hole to keep debris and the sealant out of the transmission.

    Clean the surfaces where the cover meets the transmission. Both sides. I used some lacquer and a craft knife.

    Clean your bolts up. I used a wire wheel.

    Get out your Hondabond HT and put a THIN line of sealant like so. I spread mine out with my finger. Note the interlock bolt removed, you don't have to do that. Mine had 375K on it and was wore. Yours more than likely wont be.

    Re-install. Torque down in a criss-cross pattern. If you put the proper amount of Hondabond HT on the mating surface it should look like this. As long as its not oozing a dripping everywhere your ok. Also note in the picture above I had not staked the bolt with the lock yet, don't forget!


    Clean off the sleeve on the input shave where the clutch release bearing rides. If it feels rough or has any scaring from the previous clutch release bearing you can use some emery paper and LIGHTLY clean it up. Once this is done apply a very thin coat of grease all over this sleeve. Also apply a small amount of grease on the ball the clutch fork rides on.

    Install your clutch release bearing like so.

    Below is how the clutch fork assembly is installed. It all pretty much goes on in one action then you put the boot on. The pictures are self explanatory.

    Your transmission is ready to install!
    Last edited by H311RA151N; 01-18-2015, 10:19 PM.


    You can either buy one at Honda or get one from a donor car/salvage yard.

    It may be your best bet to get one from Honda. But in case you want to save a little money in trade for a bit of work below is how you can do so.

    I removed the entire section with a cutting torch to make mine a bit easier to find the welds. Now that you can see the welds in the pictures below, you will have a much easier time drilling them out. So removing the section containing the bracket isn't as necessary.

    Taking a wire wheel to the weld locations make finding and drilling the welds a lot easier.

    Once you think you have found all the welds get a drill bit slightly larger than the hole and begin to drill them out.

    Here are the middle welds.

    Bottom towards the front of the car.

    Bottom towards the rear.

    After you drill the welds completely through you may (most likely will) needs to pry a little to get it off. Don't worry too much about bending the mount as you will find its very flexible. But it should pry off and pop loose easily. If it doesn't drill some more on the welds, maybe go to a bigger size drill bit.

    Once its off below is what you will end up with.


    Now onto installing the clutch pedal assembly and 5 speed brake arm.

    Remove the blank plate all 90-93 Accords have that came factory with an automatic transmission. Once the nuts are removed this plate just pushes out.

    The clutch pedal assembly is held in by two nuts that connect it to the clutch master cylinder and one bolt in the top. IIRC the bolt in the top is a 12mm.

    The one clutch master cylinder nut cannot be seen here but is diagonal to the one you can see below.

    I sat the clutch master cylinder in the firewall to help align the clutch pedal assembly with the studs. Once you get the top bolt threaded then put the nuts on the studs for the clutch master cylinder and cinch all three down tight.

    To connect the clutch master cylinder to the clutch pedal arm you will use your pin and a cotter pin like so. The pin goes in from the left and comes out the right.

    This is on the brake pedal arm to give you a better idea. But its just the same. You can also look at the picture of the master cylinder arm a few pictures above.

    As you can see here, brake pedal bolt, brake pedal spring, master cylinder pin, and the brake pedal stopper is what I grabbed along with the 5 speed brake pedal arm. I suggest you do the same as its free with the brake pedal arm at most if not all salvage yards.

    To remove your factory automatic arm you will unhook the spring from the top hook then remove the bolt in the top of the brake pedal assembly. It has a nut on one side so you will need a wrench on one end and a socket on the other to keep the nut from spinning.

    The red dot is the head of the brake pedal arm bolt.

    Once this bolt is removed the brake pedal arm will drop out.

    To install your 5 speed brake pedal arm you will need a pair of hemostats. After you have installed the brake pedal arm bolt and nut, hook the spring on the bottom hook and pull the spring up onto the top hook while holding up on the brake pedal to remove some of the distance you have to stretch the spring. THIS SUCKS. It's hard but keep trying.

    Once that's done put your pin in the brake master cylinder arm and the brake pedal arm using a cotter pin.

    You now have your clutch and brake pedal assembly set up and ready for your 5 speed swap. And you can still drive it with the automatic transmission if need be.


    You will need a 5 speed starter. What I done was take my automatic Mitsuba starter motor and put it on a 5 speed Mitsuba starter solenoid/bracket.

    Below are some comparisons between Mitsuba and Nippondenso. Mitsuba is better, thats the one you want if you can find one.

    Mitsuba Motor vs Mitsuba base/bracket.

    Mitsuba Motor vs Nippondenso base/bracket. Won't work. You need the right base for the type of motor you are using.

    I found my Mitsuba 5 speed starter base/bracket at a salvage yard. And I used my Mitsuba starter motor off my automatic the car came with.

    Mitsuba 5 speed base/bracket & solenoid from salvage yard.

    Paired with the original Mitsuba starter motor.

    My 5 speed starter had been making a weird sound before the car it was in got hit. That was my reason for wanting to swap a different starter. Below is why it was making some strange sounds. Going Mitsuba was hitting two birds with one stone as my Denso starter was shot and I had to have a 5 speed starter.


    You can go ahead and install the clutch line on the clutch master cylinder side. You have 3 options.

    1). Braided stainless silicone coated clutch line from valexracing on ebay $55 shipped.

    2). Make or have someone make a hard line with the appropriate fittings and bend it the way you want. This is likely the cheapest. But if you bend the line to much you ruin it.

    3). Use the OEM clutch line which I don't even see as possible. I had the engine and trans completely out of my donor car and it was still a bitch just to remove. Don't go this route. It's really a horrible option.

    I used the valexracing clutch line. If you happen to be reading this and have used the valexracing line in the past you should know that as of May 4th 2014 they updated their banjo bolt to accommodate non-OEM clutch master cylinders. You can see below that they now mill their bolts to fit both aftermarket and OEM clutch master cylinders.

    To install the clutch line on the master cylinder, place the bolt through the hole on the line with one copper washer on top and one on bottom. You will want to snug this up real well.

    You can now route the line over to the passenger side of the engine bay where you will need it later. You can secure it with zip ties as I recommend.
    Last edited by H311RA151N; 03-21-2015, 12:26 PM.



      Remove the axle nuts with your 36mm socket.

      Jack the car up and place your jack stands in the appropriate locations. You want the front tires off the ground about 2-3". I find this is far enough to get the transmission out but not so far where your reaching way up to get things.

      Remove the wheels & tires.

      Get the knuckles out of the way one of three ways.

      1). Remove the upper control arm mounting bolts thus swinging the top of the knuckle out.

      2). Remove the lower ball joint nuts in order to pull the lower ball joint out of the lower control arm thus swinging the knuckle out on the bottom.

      3). What I did and remove both entirely removing the knuckle.

      Once that's done remove your CV shafts. I slip a pry bar between the CV shaft and the transmission on the passenger side and "pop" the pry bar in a jerking motion while spinning the shaft with my other hand. I do the same on the intermediate shaft side except I pry between the CV shaft and intermediate shaft.

      You will need to remove the lower pinch bolts from the struts to get the CV shafts to fit through them.

      I also removed the passenger side strut assembly to gain more clearance when removing/installing transmissions. Below shows how to remove the strut assembly.

      Remove the passenger side of the splash shield bolts to access the tension rod nut. Mine was all messed up. But you should be able to get the point here.

      Expose the tension rod nut and remove it.

      Remove the passenger side tension rod. Once these two bolts are removed and the nut on the front is removed the tension rod will come out.

      Remove the battery and battery tray.

      Remove the intake and the intake bracket in the picture if yours still has it.

      Remove the transmission cooler hoses using pliers.

      Remove VSS connector and power steering fluid hoses going to the VSS. One will take pliers one will take a Phillips screw driver or a (8?mm) socket.

      Located near the VSS connector is another grey connector. Disconnect it as well.

      Remove the ground strap.

      Remove connectors for shift solenoids and reverse switch.

      Remove starter. Unplug the single wire as seen here. Disconnect the power wire using a socket. Be sure and put the nut back on so you don't lose it or the washer. You can do this after you remove the two mounting bolts so you can hold the starter in a better/safer position to remove the power wire nut.

      Now that you have everything disconnected from the battery cables you can re-arrange them to keep them out of the way.

      Remove A/T kick down cable. Loosen the nut on the cable, slide the cable out of the bracket, then slide the end of the cable out of the kick down lever.

      On the throttlebody side, remove the bolt mounting the cable to the bracket or remove the Phillips bolts from the throttlebody then turn the throttle wheel to WOT and remove the cable from the throttle wheel.

      Remove the cross member.


      Rear cross member bolts.

      Exhaust hanger removed that was mounted to cross member.

      Drain the fluid.

      Remove the shifter cable cover.

      Remove shifter cable from transmission using a flat head screw driver like so. This thing just slides off.

      Remove lower bolt from intake manifold brace. You do this to gain easier access to the bolts going through the rear T bracket to the block and to the transmission.

      Remove inspection cover/bell housing.

      Place your floor jack under the oil pan. Pump it up enough to touch the oil pan firmly. You will want to use a piece of wood or something between the floor jack and the oil pan to be as gentle as you can.

      Remove the bolts to the rear T bracket and a couple to the block. Note some of these are duplicates! I wanted to make sure you don't forget or miss any.

      Remove the bolts from the passenger side engine mount.

      Slowly let your floor jack down. The engine/trans should tilt quite a bit. This is ok as it will not harm anything and give you better access to remove the transmission.

      Place the jack under the transmission slightly to support a little of the weight. This is mainly here to hold the transmission while you take out the remaining bolts.

      Remove the flexplate to torque converter bolts. They are 10mm and there are 10 or so of them. Use the crank bolt to turn the engine over while you take each bolt out.

      Remove the remainder of the bolts holding the transmission to the engine.

      There is a bolt on the back side opposite to this one that I could not get a picture of. Its in the same location as this one just in the back by the thermostat housing.

      Here is the bolt hole with the transmission removed that could not get a picture of.

      Very front of engine/transmission by radiator.

      At this point the transmission is ready to drop out. Double check everything to ensure you have not missed anything.

      Once you have looked everything over your ready to drop the transmission.

      Start letting your jack down SLOWLY. Once you see that the passenger side engine mount is ready to come out stop the jack and finesse it out.

      In the process of going down, still about 4" left.

      Mount removed.

      Continue to let the jack down. You will get to a point where you will see the transmission separating from the engine. Stop at this time.

      Now pump the jack up until the gap is closed between the engine and transmission. Grab a hold of the transmission mount studs or wherever you find easiest/safest and give it a tug towards the passenger side. You will see the gap increase. Now drop the jack down and watch as the transmission sits all the way down with the jack as you let it down.

      Kick, push, pull, the transmission off the jack, just make sure you did not miss anything. Pull the jack out and drag the transmission out from under the car.

      You just removed your automatic transmission. Place your floor jack back under your oil pan and lift the engine back up to avoid being any harsher on the two mounts that are still in the car supporting the engine.
      Last edited by H311RA151N; 05-01-2015, 06:29 AM.



        Remove the flexplate using a 12 point socket. I used an impact, the reason being is so I did not have to hold the flexplate/crankshaft while I removed them.

        You do not want to put a socket on the end of the crankshaft pulley bolt to hold the flexplate/rotating assembly while you unbolt the flywheel/flexplate bolts. This is so you don't put the crankshaft in any kind of a bind. If you have to, use a pry bar on the teeth of the flexplate to hold it still while you take the flexplate bolts out.

        With the flexplate removed you can now access the rear main seal. I had an oil pan gasket to replace as well so I went a little different route as for the rear main seal case. I removed the down pipe and the oil pan which rids the rear main case of the lower two studs. With these two studs in the oil pan prevents the rear main case from being pulled out and the seal prevents the rear main case from being pulled up and out. So what I recommend is carefully prying the rear main seal out. Another member on here had told me they get the seal case off without removing the oil pan. It might be worth a look but I didn't see that is was possible.

        Two studs coming from rear main case going into oil pan.

        I did mine a bit different as I had an oil pan gasket issue. But this is the rear main case with the seal removed.

        I had a spare engine laying around which I removed the rear crankshaft/main seal from without removing the seal case. I did this so I knew it could be done. And it can be.

        You will need to use an object again to drive the new seal in. I used a round piece/plate of wood. Once again you tap around the edges in a circular pattern. Apply a little grease to the inside lip of the seal before you install it. ARS seals come pre-greased. If the seal you bought was not pre-greased then you will need to grease it.


        Check your new flywheel and make sure it has timing marks and that they look to be in the right location just to be sure.

        If everything checks out OK then grab your 5 speed flywheel bolts and lets begin installing your flywheel. I will be demonstrating part of this procedure with an old flywheel and clutch kit. It's just the same. You do with your new flywheel, pressure plate and disc as I do with these.

        Install your flywheel, remember there is a dowel on the crankshaft so you will need to align that dowel with the dowel hole in the flywheel.

        Once you get it lined up drive a couple 5 speed flywheel bolts in. Place them one by the dowel and one on the opposite side. Run them in snug to hold the flywheel flush with the crank. Remember which bolts these two are, you can use a marker or whatever you need to do. Apply a bit of blue thread locker on the threads of the remaining 5 speed flywheel bolts, not too much, just about a pea sized drop. Once you have applied blue thread locker on all the flywheel bolts and installed them pull the first two. Apply blue thread locker and re-install.

        Torque your flywheel bolts to 76ftlbs in a crisscross pattern. Go over them a couple times. Then clean the surface of the flywheel.

        Once you have the flywheel torqued down properly take your new clutch disc and place it on the flywheel like so. Use your alignment tool to hold it in place. Make sure your alignment tool is in as far as you can get it and its snug.

        Install the pressure plate. Notice the distance between all the dowels to the nearest bolt location. There is one that has a further distance, knowing this will help you install the pressure plate as it only goes on one way.

        Install your pressure plate bolts with a pea size drop of thread locker. Not too much as you don't want it to drip and end up on the clutch disc surface or the pressure plate. Torque them to 19ftlbs in a crisscross pattern. The yellow dots represent the dowel and pressure plate bolt hole that's the furthest apart. The red represents the location of the pressure plate bolts.

        This is where you will be now.


        Remove the rear engine mount to T bracket bolt. The nut on the other side is welded to the T bracket so there is no need to hold it. Once you get the bolt out you may have to lift the engine up a few pumps with your floor jack to remove the automatic T bracket.

        Remove the automatic rear engine mount. A couple of the bolts are a pain. I used long extensions and an electric impact.

        Three here.

        And this one in the rear driver side corner.

        You will use the DX/LX 5 speed rear bracket of course. Place your rear engine mount on like so. Two bolts in the back, one in the front. I put them in and used an electric impact on them. I want to say the impact I used is 275ftlbs. Either way, you want these pretty tight.

        Here is the automatic rear T bracket vs the LX/DX 5 speed rear T bracket. Automatic has the red dot. 5 Speed LX/DX has the green dot.

        You can use the bolt that came in the automatic rear engine mount like so. It looks and feels a little long but it works just fine.

        I went ahead and ran the top bolt that goes through the engine block and into the T bracket in while it was easy.

        Last edited by H311RA151N; 05-01-2015, 06:35 PM.



          You may want to bend the A/C lines a bit to get better access to this.

          You will want to take a wire wheel to all the seam sealer in this area to expose the welds you need to drill, there is a lot of it.

          End result. Notice the three up top that I missed? Don't struggle like I did. Now you know those three are there as I did not.

          Clean up this whole area with your wire wheel like so. Your about to weld on it so you want a good surface to weld on. Failure to produce a good weld could have some real shitty results.

          Now take some measurements.

          The factory automatic bracket is 13-3/4" away from the core support.

          The 5 speed bracket your about to weld in is 12-1/4" away from the core support. Mark 12-1/4" away from the core support.

          Notice the surface is not prepped yet. I do prep the surface before I weld. Make sure you do too. Place the bracket in the appropriate position next to your mark like so.

          You will need your welder now. While holding the mount in place tack a couple weld on to hold it in place.

          Tack every hole in the bracket. Anywhere you chose to weld it is fine, but make sure all the holes are filled with good welds. When you get done with a weld, grab a hold of the mount with a glove on and give it a good yank. My first two welds I had to re-do as my welder was not hot enough. I simply took my drill to the failed welds in the bracket, cleaned the surface where I tried to weld before with a wire wheel, cranked up the welder a tad, and re-welded it. The mount is flexible so when you weld on a new spot make sure your pressing the mount flush against the chassis before you weld it. You want a strong mount!

          Once you have the welds all finished and you have tugged at it like a gorilla while boasting about your superior welding skills to whoever is around, go ahead and clean the welds up with a grinder. Pretty them up then throw on a coat of paint to prevent rust. Like so.

          Your mount is done and you saved over $100.


          Remove the center console.

          Push in the shift lock release with your ignition key to put the shift selector in 1st gear. This enables you to pull the console back and up removing the console.

          With the console out, disconnect every wiring connector along with the front two bolts as pictured below. Red are the front two bolts, green are the wiring connectors.

          Remove the rear two bolts.

          Remove these bolts in the front below where you removed the first two.

          To release the shifter assembly from the shifter cable pry this clip up like so and remove it. The linkage will now slide out and into 2 pieces.

          Discard the shifter assembly.

          DON'T LET THIS BE YOU! You need some gloves for the next part! If not you'll end up like I did. I apologize if this is too graphic. This picture is not to gross you out but to get you to wear some gloves while dealing with the heat shield.

          This is not the same vehicle but I wanted to use this picture to show you where the bolts are to remove the shifter cable. There are 2 10mm nuts and 2 10mm bolts as pictured below. Once you remove them you can bend the heat shield down enough to gain access to the two 10mm bolts in order to remove the rubber grommet releasing the shifter cable.

          These two bolts are behind the catalytic converter. You may not find these necessary to remove.

          Once you have those two 10mm bolts out and the bolt going to the bracket you can now remove the shifter cable. I don't have any good pictures of the process as space is limited.

          What your automatic shifter cable will look like removed.


          This is what the shifter assembly looks like before you install it. Remove the shifter cables if they are still attached. Your not ready for that yet and they have to come off anyways. Don't lose the washers.

          Install the shifter assembly. You don't have the cables in yet but the shifter assembly goes in just the same. 4 Bolts as labeled in red.

          Now its time to install the shifter cables. Feed the end that goes up into shifter through the hole in the bottom of the car and bolt them in just like the automatic cable you just removed.

          One side has a nut, one has a cotter pin. Connect them just like so.

          Slide in your horseshoe/C-clips. Like pictured below.

          On the shifter cables beneath the car you will now connect the bracket to the appropriate location. Feed the cables over the subframe and behind the intake manifold. The bracket is removable as you can see below.

          Put the heat shield back in place using the two 10mm nuts you took off. Remember to wear gloves!

          Last edited by H311RA151N; 05-01-2015, 07:23 AM.



            In the photo below, the old slave cylinder is still installed. If your old one is installed still you will want to remove it.

            You will remove your floor jack from from beneath the oil pan. Place it where you will lift the transmission to raise it up and bolt it up to your engine.

            Remove your clutch alignment tool.

            Make sure all the wires and anything else is out of the way. You can see where I moved mine in the picture below.

            Place the transmission on top of your floor jack. You will need to slide it on from the side placing it where it will stay somewhat balanced. Do not drag the transmission.

            Make sure your dowels are in. There are two of them and they look like metal sleeves. They aid you in lining up your transmission and help hold it somewhat while you stick the bolts through.

            Below is a dowel. A bent one, but a dowel none the less.

            Once you have your transmission on top of your floor jack make sure when you go to lift the transmission up the input shaft clears the bottom of the engine and the clutch assembly.

            Start lifting your transmission carefully. Once the input shaft is lined up with the clutch disc slide the transmission over against the block while sliding the input shaft into the disc. The splines may not line up on the first try. If not reach down and spin the input shaft a little and try again. Do this until the splines line up.

            Once you get the transmission close enough to the engine block put a couple bolts in to hold it. You will need to continue to hold the transmission in place while you do this. I put the following bolts in to hold it on. Use your long starter bolt but don't put the starter on. Your just wanting to hold the transmission on.

            This one goes through the engine block and into the transmission. Its located on the very back of the block.[/B]

            Run one bolt in a bit, then jump to the next bolt and run it in a bit, then to the next, and back to the first one. Do this until they are snug and the transmission in flush against the block.

            Now its time to install the bolt in the front beneath where the slave cylinder will be located. Make sure this bolt is sung. I have done this a time or two so I installed my transmission with the slave cylinder already installed. It's harder so I don't advise it.

            Install this bolt, located between the head and the thermostat housing. It should be snug.

            Place your passenger side transmission mount on the studs. Begin pumping up your floor jack while watching for the rear T bracket to transmission holes to line up. Once they line up install the bolts. The two longer ones are marked in blue and the bottom shorter bolt is marked in red.

            Do not forget about the bolt going through the T bracket into the engine block and the bolt just to the left of it either. The bolt to the left goes through the engine block and into the transmission case.


            With the rear T bracket bolts in proceed to pump your floor jack up until the passenger side transmission mount lines up in the bracket. Run the long bolt through the bracket and through the mount. Tighten it down until snug. Install the three nuts holding the mount to the transmission as well at this time. You want these sung as well.

            Torque all engine to transmission bolts to 47ftlbs.

            There are no specs for the passenger side transmission mount to transmission case nuts. I torqued mine to 40ftlbs.

            Below are the differences in a 5 speed bell housing and an automatic. Green dot is 5 speed red is automatic.

            Install your 5 speed inspection plate/bell housing. There are no torque specs. Snug or 15ftlbs is what I recommend.

            Install your starter.

            Install the VSS connector and the power steering fluid lines that run to it.

            Install your slave cylinder. Mine is out of the car in this picture but this will show you how it goes.

            Install your ground strap. I installed mine here.

            Install the intermediate shaft. Torque bolts to 28ftlbs.

            There are two bolts with enlarged shanks. One goes on the bottom and the other goes to the upper right. The upper left is a normal bolt.

            Install your radius rod. The nut in the front is 32ftlbs. The two bolts that mount the radius rod to the lower control arm do not have specs. I torqued mine to 60ftlbs.

            If you removed your strut assembly install it now. The nuts on the top are 19ftlbs.

            Install the CV shafts. Or original passenger side CV shaft will work. You will use the 5 speed drivers side CV you acquired. Make sure the CV shaft "snaps" in or is in all the way. Be careful not to hit your new seal on the passengers side with the CV shaft during installation.

            Install the clutch line into the rubber line coming off the top of the transmission. Use a wrench on the clutch line and vise grips on the metal part of the clutch hose to tighten this connection up.

            Install your shift cables onto the transmission shift levers. Make sure they are ran straight to the levers and are not kinked. They will naturally lay the way they should if they are ran correctly.

            Install cotter pins like so.

            Install the shift cables onto the shift cable bracket on top of the transmission using two C-clips/horseshoe clips.

            Add transmission fluid. Pour until it starts to run out the fill hole. About 2 quarts. I used a home made funnel apparatus. Green dot is fill plug, red dot is drain plug. Fill plug is 17mm.

            Install the clutch fluid reservoir. The two holes are already provided.

            Install the front cross-member. Also install the knuckles if you removed them at this time along with the splash shield bolts.

            Install your shift boot retaining ring and shift boot into your center console, install the console and install your shift knob.

            Install your battery tray, battery, intake, front wheels & tires. Torque your CV shaft nuts to 180ftlbs. Torque your lug nuts to 80ftlbs. If you removed your brake lines from the calipers you will need to bleed your brakes as well.

            Bleed your clutch, go over everything making sure you did not forget anything or leave anything out.


            In order to get the car to start you are going to need to make it think the car is in Park. Connect the black wire and the green and white wire together. Use electrical tape.

            You will also need to connect the two large wires in the brown harness to bypass the neutral safety switch. I done mine like so by taking off part of the wiring from the automatic shifter assembly. Use electrical tape or solder them.

            Remove your TCU or unplug it to get rid of flashing S light. It is located by the ECU on the passenger side floor board up front.

            Operational neutral safety switch coming soon.

            -FIRST START-

            Once you have determined you are ready top start the vehicle go ahead and do so. Look for leaks once it's running.

            Last edited by H311RA151N; 05-01-2015, 08:16 PM.


              Lookin like a great DIY. So much time and effort. Cant wait to see the outcome
              Procrastination is a THIEF of time!!

              MY MRT


              My First CB7



                Originally posted by dahubby View Post
                Lookin like a great DIY. So much time and effort. Cant wait to see the outcome
                More time and effort than I realized honestly, but I took pictures throughout the entire process so that's the main thing. I too am anxious to see the outcome. With so much information making every part completely correct and worded easily is a very large task.


                  Originally posted by H311RA151N View Post
                  More time and effort than I realized honestly, but I took pictures throughout the entire process so that's the main thing. I too am anxious to see the outcome. With so much information making every part completely correct and worded easily is a very large task.
                  yes but no we finaly have a DIY the actually has correct info is an made FOR the CB7. not the CD chassis like the original one
                  visit vgruk


                    Originally posted by RyanD View Post
                    yes but no we finaly have a DIY the actually has correct info is an made FOR the CB7. not the CD chassis like the original one
                    That is exactly what I was after. So many are discouraged by this swap or opt not to buy what could be a clean CB simply because it has automatic transmission.

                    It's not finished as you can see but the hard stuff is done. Thank god. I quit counting at 15 hours making this DIY. Of course part of that is finding pics, uploading them to Photobucket, editing and so on. I'm over the 20 hour mark right now. I have about 2-3 hours left and about the same in editing and highlighting.


                      Originally posted by H311RA151N View Post
                      That is exactly what I was after. So many are discouraged by this swap or opt not to buy what could be a clean CB simply because it has automatic transmission.
                      I dont have a cb anymore but I still keep up with this site as im a fan of the chassis and will be getting another soon and honestly you just made me be able to consider buying an auto. My first one was auto and it was fun but I wanted a 5 speed butI discovered major damage before I jumped into swapping it thankfully. Now with this much more informative DIY I actually feel prepared to swap one as opposed to just kinda printing out the old DIY and jumping into it. Thank you for taking the time to do this! Now to find a clean cb...
                      Looking for a new CB. Sell me yours!


                        Very good swap DIY! The best I have ever seen.


                          Originally posted by MrTShoff View Post
                          I dont have a cb anymore but I still keep up with this site as im a fan of the chassis and will be getting another soon and honestly you just made me be able to consider buying an auto. My first one was auto and it was fun but I wanted a 5 speed butI discovered major damage before I jumped into swapping it thankfully. Now with this much more informative DIY I actually feel prepared to swap one as opposed to just kinda printing out the old DIY and jumping into it. Thank you for taking the time to do this! Now to find a clean cb...
                          That is very good to hear. And your welcome. It's a lot of time and effort but well worth it to have inspired someone.


                            Originally posted by djkurious View Post
                            Very good swap DIY! The best I have ever seen.
                            Thank you, it is not complete but it's getting close. I need to take a break honestly. I plan to complete it on Sunday and add finishing touches throughout early next week.


                              I have gone over this several times and I believe it to be successfully completed. If you read this and happen to find any typo's or problems please let me know so I can correct it.