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ENG : H22A ATR/Euro R Intake Manifold Swap While Retaining All Stock Functionality

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    ENG : H22A ATR/Euro R Intake Manifold Swap While Retaining All Stock Functionality

    So this DIY is for the Installation of an Accord Type R intake manifold swap onto a P13 H22a. This is 95% the same as a Euro R intake manifold swap and I will highlight the difference in this DIY.

    I must make a big shout out to Robert (Lindiz) forum member on here. Helped me loads with the mod real time over the days I was doing it. Mastering this enough to make a DIY for the forum is only due to his knowledge.

    The point of this DIY is to fit the ATR/Euro R manifold onto the P13 H22a head and retain all things stock. Injectors and rail, EGR, IACV, ALL Vacuum lines everything. Obviously you can uprate any part you wish, but most swaps I have seen, have sacrificed some functionality.

    List of things you need:

    ATR/EuroR intake manifold
    RoskoRacing IACV adapter plate
    RoskoRacing fuel rail adaptor
    Thermal intake gasket
    Grub screws to fill the little air injection holes on the flange.
    2 meters of 4mm ID silicon hose
    Pack of vacuum pipe connectors spitters and reducers.
    Tube of Hondabond.
    Loom tape
    ATR loom side air temp sensor plug


    A bare ATR/Euro R intake manifold









    Procedure:

    - Turn the brake booster fitting 90deg so it points to the left hand side of the car. I got an advantage over you LHD guys, in that my brake booster pipe is a U shape. Simply reverse fitting this pipe make it fit on the manifold just right.

    - Turn the fitting nearest to the butterfly valve to point at 8 0'clock. this allows for the Evap canister hose.

    - Port out the top section of each runner. I used a flexi ended Dremel. The sanding sleeves happen to be the right diameter. This is allows for the wider spray pattern of the OBD1 H22a injector noses.


    Right side runner is before


    - Tap and install threadlocked grub screws, Doesnt matter on the size, think I used 4mm. Cap off the big one on the bottom.



    - Rosko Racing IACV adapter, hondabonded and mounted for use of stock P13 H22a IACV


    - Vacuum line extension. Becuase there is not enough vacuum ports on the ATR/EuroR manifold.


    - ATR specific loom side plug obtained to fit ATR air temp sensor. (Euro R guys dont need to worry about this bit) Still 2 wire and just slightly extended this from the CB loom.


    Manifold flange close fit to the P13 head! This is no grinding of the flange and a Thermotec gasket. This is fully tightened up and it just interference fits agains the fin there. Easy solution if worried about it is filling the fin.


    - Extend the wires for IACV plug. Its in the injector loom, seperate it out of there extend it, and reroute to the back of the bay.

    -The fuel rail adpater tried to occupy the same space as the stock EGR cover plate. 2 tabs facing the engine needed to be filed off.


    Also this middle section on the stock fuel rail needed flatting off.


    RoskoRacing Fuel rail adapter mounted to the stock rail.


    -Route the coolant lines straight from the IACV to the block. Top of IACV goes to the thermohousing bottom to the side of block. This is only if you wish to take the opportunity to bypass the coolant lines to the throttle body.

    This is showing the installed stock fuel rail and roskoracing fuel rail adapter




    - Install the ATR/EuroR throttle bracket, you can only use it the way I have. Otherwise its a custom bracket. Adjust the throttle cable.

    - Check for air leaks, bleed the coolant

    - Pull the plug on the back of the IACV. Use the throttle plate stop set screw to adjust the idle down to 600rpm, then when replugged, it has a idle of 950rpm. This is perfect for me as i have poly filled front torque mount and the balancer belt deleted, at 950rpm no vibrations through the steering wheel or seats.


    Go drive and enjoy your new manifold with a cold idle, cruise control, evap, all the black box stuff connected, stock injectors and rail! Only think you loose is the IABs of course. I found power and sound improvements particularly top end on a stock P13 ECU without a tune, I sure with a proper ECU and a Tune, more gains can be had.

    Hope this helps someone out


    UKDM 93 CB3 Page (1) H22A U2Q7 LSD
    UKDM 91 4ws Page (3) OEM Minter
    NOW H22A U2Q7 SWAPPED

    #2
    Nice, I was wondering if the Type-R was a different casting from the Euro-R; Euro's a PDE as well.

    For an even cleaner look, Rosko relocates the brake booster vacuum port to the rear of the manifold by tapping into that cubed protrusion. Relief filing is also made to the flange to clear the head fins.

    It looks like the fuel rail inlet fitting is opposite the transmission in RHD cars. On LHD, the EGR is in the way. The fitting that came with my Rosko rail will simply not allow me to run EGR, but I haven't looked into whether a 90* fitting would fit in there. Alternatively you'd need an aftermarket rail that allows locating that fitting at either end, and running a longer, custom, fuel hose.

    Comment


      #3
      Correct, you can choose to file the flange, or use a thicker thermo gasket. I chose the gasket route as it has 2 advantages, spacing and cooling.

      For you LHD guys you can extend the fuel hose and select some aeroquip fitttings in place of the stock banjo. But failing that a new aftermarket rail with side fitments. Or you prioritise the stock rail over the EGR, and loose the EGR.


      UKDM 93 CB3 Page (1) H22A U2Q7 LSD
      UKDM 91 4ws Page (3) OEM Minter
      NOW H22A U2Q7 SWAPPED

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