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ENG: F22B DOHC Head Swap onto F22AX Block

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  • xwade01
    replied
    Hahah right on!

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  • HondaFan81
    replied
    Originally posted by xwade01
    I believe it is. F22Ax is 85mm and the H23 is 87mm. If i'm wrong on the #'s correct me, but i'm pretty sure.
    Yea your right. I was going to state this before when I read through it but I was like bleh....

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  • xwade01
    replied
    I believe it is. F22Ax is 85mm and the H23 is 87mm. If i'm wrong on the #'s correct me, but i'm pretty sure.

    Leave a comment:


  • hemlockz
    replied
    Originally posted by WiKKeDV16
    .... the h23a head swap and the f22b headswap vary in one small detail.. lol.. which i guess makes em "different" .. one you have to silicon shut a passage and the other u dont.... everything else is identical...
    I thought the bore was 2mm larger too....? (small detail ) am i wrong?

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  • N1ghtM0nkey
    replied
    Originally posted by HondaFan81
    K ma, I'll go sit in the corner now and think about what I've done
    Watch out for the curb on your way there.

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  • HondaFan81
    replied
    Originally posted by N1ghtM0nkey
    Lay off him cisco

    Don't make me poke some fun at you
    K ma, I'll go sit in the corner now and think about what I've done

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  • N1ghtM0nkey
    replied
    Lay off him cisco

    Don't make me poke some fun at you

    Leave a comment:


  • HondaFan81
    replied
    Originally posted by 91accordwagon
    Thanks for the cocky response, next time someone ask a question, drop your pride for a second. Not everyone has done this swap, and questions help those who are preparing for it to do it accurately without blowing an engine. Good response and I'll go into further detail on my question tomorrow.
    Take it easy killa, I was just playin. No need to be all serious. Anyhow, I haven't done the swap, I just know. I had the head and was considering the swap but I went with my two current projects, sold the head to a friend. He's doing it and I'm helping. I just wanted to clarify this issue so others (my friend included, which brought your post to my attention) would not get discouraged. It's good you cared to look at possible problems, but IMO you just needed a better understanding of how it all works and that's where your confusion lies I think.

    Anyways, those that know me....know I like to kid around....take a chill pill aight homie
    Last edited by HondaFan81; 02-06-2006, 01:32 AM.

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  • 91accordwagon
    replied
    Originally posted by HondaFan81

    Point, set, match...


    Thanks for the cocky response, next time someone ask a question, drop your pride for a second. Not everyone has done this swap, and questions help those who are preparing for it to do it accurately without blowing an engine. Good response and I'll go into further detail on my question tomorrow.

    Leave a comment:


  • HondaFan81
    replied
    Originally posted by 91accordwagon
    I've yet to see thisi question so I'll just go out with it.

    This is the thing that I'm worried about when doing this swap, since you use the h23 crank gear (smaller) your oil pump is going to be prone to going out and I'm afraid of it happening at the worst time possible. So here's my question, what about using the h22 belt instead? the f22 crank and h22 crank pullies are nearly the same and the distance relation from crank to cams is the same. This way would save pulling the gear on the swap and possibly save your engine down the road. So there's the idea, Go brains go, lets get some post info on this one.
    Your theory/speculation on the timing gear and oil pump issue is not true. Here are many reasons why:

    1) The timing gear has to do with the cam timing and water pump with relation to the crankshaft. The timing gear is DRIVEN by the crankshaft and DRIVES the water pump and cams via timing belt.

    2) The oil pump is DRIVEN by the crankshaft itself, oscillating the oil pump gear within the oil pump housing for oil pressure. Thus, the oil pump itself is NOT DRIVEN by the timing gear at all. The timing gear is a separate system in itself.

    3) If ANY pump is to have issues related to the timing gear, it is the water pump since IT IS DRIVEN by the timing gear via the timing belt and the cams themselves would have issues as well and cam timing would not be in synchronization. The purpose of swapping the H23 timing gear is to transform the F22ax block to handle the DOHC cam timing that the JDM F22B DOHC non-VTEC and H23 DOHC non-VTEC have. This timing gear swap will keep the cams and water pump in check.

    4) The JDM F22B DOHC non-VTEC has the same basic block as the F22ax SOHC non-VTEC. This is part of the reason why this headswap goes on with no modifications to the head and you can even use the F22ax headgasket as they share the same cylinder bore diameter. When people swap the JDM F22B head to a F22ax block, they are basically turning their motor into a JDM F22B motor as a whole. The reason your compression ratio bumps up some is because of the JDM F22B cylinder head itself!! It has a 47.2 head CC compared to the F22ax 50.5 and if you do the calculations like I have, it will give you 9.2 CR vs the F22ax 8.8 CR.

    5) Also, in your statements you first talked about "crank gears (timing gear)" then you switched subjects talking about crank pullies. Your whole statement became unclear at this point, but I get what you are trying to say anyhow. Just for clarification I already explained the timing gear portion, but the crank pulley portion is TOTALLY different. The crank pulley runs power-steering, alternator and air-conditioning (if you have A/C). Crank pullies have nothing to do with any of this as they are DRIVEN off the crankshaft to run completely unrelated systems to the original question at hand.

    Point, set, match...
    Last edited by HondaFan81; 02-05-2006, 03:51 PM.

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  • mullet
    replied
    Originally posted by xwade01
    I'm not all too sure about what car they came from. I always thought it was the 92-95si prelde models but I could be wrong. But anyways yes its pretty hard to come by this head. You can find a whole f22b dohc engine on ebay for 650$ at the lowest. But i've only seen them go that low a couple of times, mostly they go for 700-800$. But anywho goodluck.
    The dohc F22b's were never brought to the states. They're from the 4th gen (92-96) Preludes overseas. Almost exact equivalent to the H23 from the USDM 4th gen Prelude Si's. You used to be able to get the F22B longblock from hmotorsonline for (IIRC) $650, but it doesn't look like they have them anymore.

    Leave a comment:


  • accord91lx
    replied
    Originally posted by 91accordwagon
    I've yet to see thisi question so I'll just go out with it.

    This is the thing that I'm worried about when doing this swap, since you use the h23 crank gear (smaller) your oil pump is going to be prone to going out and I'm afraid of it happening at the worst time possible. So here's my question, what about using the h22 belt instead? the f22 crank and h22 crank pullies are nearly the same and the distance relation from crank to cams is the same. This way would save pulling the gear on the swap and possibly save your engine down the road. So there's the idea, Go brains go, lets get some post info on this one.
    also curious as to the answer....bump

    Leave a comment:


  • xwade01
    replied
    I'm not all too sure about what car they came from. I always thought it was the 92-95si prelde models but I could be wrong. But anyways yes its pretty hard to come by this head. You can find a whole f22b dohc engine on ebay for 650$ at the lowest. But i've only seen them go that low a couple of times, mostly they go for 700-800$. But anywho goodluck.

    Leave a comment:


  • 92_accord_f20a
    replied
    damn way to hard to find a f22b dohc head, called everywhere, beent to some junkyards, what car did they originally come out of, is there anyway to order one brand new from honda? or that would prolly cost me the same as going with a used h22 swap

    Leave a comment:


  • xwade01
    replied
    NoSlo... where the hell are you? Haha -- Bumping for the answer.

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