Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

ENG: H-series Plenum on F22A6 runners

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • owequitit
    commented on 's reply
    Hey Frosty,

    It's hard to say without hearing it, but it could be the FITV or IACV, depending where the noise is coming from. I could also be another vacuum leak somewhere. The best way to figure out the source is probably to block passages until it stops. Both the FITV and IACV take air from inside the throttle body before the plate, so you can test each of those holes respectively. The air boost valve is on the other side, but has its own port that is either covered by a hose, or is open to atmosphere, depending how you did the swap. That is another possibility, as are some of the vacuum ports located near that air boost valve that may have not been used. I have had a lot of issues with vacuum plug caps rotting and cracking on those. Depending on the severity of the leak, it may not cause idle issues.

    The second problem, if you can't identify an exact source is whether or not you really want to deal with it.

    Another good technique is to spray carb cleaner around the IM until you notice a change in idle characteristics. That will typically highlight a leak right in the area you are checking. From there, you can at least narrow it down.

  • FrostyCB9
    replied
    owequitit Its been a few months now since I have done this upgrade and the only con I have from doing this, maybe due to installation error, is an "bobbing" or "guzzling" sound coming from the air intake system during idle.. oddly enough if i turn on the headlights the sound goes away? When I first did this swap the sound was more noticeable and so i went ahead started replacing the FITV, IACV, TB gasket, etc. in hopes to narrow down the cause of this noise. It doesn't seem to interfere with how the engine runs though. I researched what this sound might be and people point to the IACV as a culprit...

    Leave a comment:


  • owequitit
    replied
    Haha. Most of the stuff on the board these days is an "old" thread! No problem. It should be pretty straightforward.

    Leave a comment:


  • FrostyCB9
    replied
    owequititTHANK YOU! As soon as my parts come in I'll give it a shot and report back. I'm trying to get the most out of this F22 before having to go H. I appreciate you responding back to me on a such an old thread. *props*

    Leave a comment:


  • owequitit
    replied
    Originally posted by FrostyCB9 View Post
    I am attempting to resuscitate this thread for some answers....
    Well, just one really: I Basically need to know if an AUTO H22 THROTTLE BODY will work on my 5spd f22a6 manifold...
    I managed to hunt down an AUTO H22 TB/Plenum at the local yard and decided to go ahead with this swap. ...

    Currently in the process of gathering all new o-rings, etc. prior to attempting. owequitit

    Thanks in advance ...
    As far as I can remember, it should be fine. The cables should all be similar enough. I had an automatic, and it worked on that before I swapped it to 5 speed. There may be a few minor differences, but it shouldn't affect it on a 5 speed car.

    Leave a comment:


  • FrostyCB9
    replied
    I am attempting to resuscitate this thread for some answers....
    Well, just one really: I Basically need to know if an AUTO H22 THROTTLE BODY will work on my 5spd f22a6 manifold...
    I managed to hunt down an AUTO H22 TB/Plenum at the local yard and decided to go ahead with this swap. ...

    Currently in the process of gathering all new o-rings, etc. prior to attempting. owequitit

    Thanks in advance ...

    Leave a comment:


  • KINGPIN33
    replied
    I just finished it all and here is my input.

    - I made an educated guess on the coolant lines for the FIV under the throttle body. The one circled in yellow is the one I used for the coolant INLET. The red circle is the coolant OUTLET. So far it has been working... I had to go buy a coolant line to go from the FIV outlet to the IACV inlet. The coolant line I bought had an inner diameter of 5/16 inch.

    -When doing all of this, might as well change the fuel filter one time as there is lots of room after the plenum is removed.

    -I would check the TPS prior to bolting the TB onto it. I used a digital tachometer to make sure that it read 0.45v when TB was completely shut. At WOT, it was 4.25v. For some reason, I couldn't get 4.95v at WOT as per the DIY.

    -For the IACV, I bought 2 gaskets. One was the round comb screen and the other was the rubber gasket. I found it easier to clean out the IACV with the screen out. That way I can spray CARB cleaner like crazy inside of it.

    -I wish I had gotten a new rubber gasket for the fast idle speed control (I think?) as mine was hard and cracking somewhat.

    -I'm anal about torque specs etc. I found that the TB nuts are supposed to be torqued down to 16ft-lb or 22NM. I used this spec for the 5 plenum nuts/bolts aswell.

    -When connecting the throttle cable to the TB, I found it easier to adjust with the intake tube off. That way I can see the throttle plates position as I adjusted the 14mm nuts.

    Other thoughts,

    -Somone mentioned that the H23 plenum has 2/3 times the volume of the A6 plenum. Just by looking it, I didn't find so. It was more like 1.5 times more the volume of the A6 plenum according to my eyes. I may be blind...
    If I think of anything else, I'll post it up here.


    Questions I have,

    -You shouldn't have to cut the intake to get it to fit. I just used some oil to lube it up. The biggest problem I found when placing the stock accord intake back in, was that the black plastic resonator tube (attacthed to the bottom of the rubber intake) was in the way of the FIV inlet. My rubber intake tube is on, but it isn't flush with the TB. What did you guys do?



    Thanks.

    Originally posted by KINGPIN33
    Could someone please point out in the diagram below which one is the coolant inlet and which one is the coolant outlet? or does it even matter?
    Is the red circled one the inlet and the yellow one the outlet?
    The picture below is the FITV for the H23 throttle body.





    Thanks!
    Last edited by KINGPIN33; 06-01-2008, 06:17 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • KINGPIN33
    replied
    help on FITV inlet and outlet.

    Could someone please point out in the diagram below which one is the coolant inlet and which one is the coolant outlet? or does it even matter?
    Is the red circled one the inlet and the yellow one the outlet?
    The picture below is the FITV for the H23 throttle body.





    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • bagoon316
    replied
    No i have the F20A DOHC, the JDM accord engine, the upper plenum looks very very similar to the F22Ax upper plenum. I was looking at them yesterday, and my (F20A DOHC) is def taller, but isnt nearly as wide as the H22. I def think the H22 is bigger, and the T/B is def bigger than the F20A DOHC T/B. I will go ahead and do the swap. I will also be double stacked IAB plates, which should help as well.

    Thanks for the help.

    Leave a comment:


  • owequitit
    replied
    Originally posted by bagoon316
    Is the H23/H22 upper plenum larger internally? Becuase the F20A DOHC which is similar to the A6 is a taller plenum. The plenum with a spacer added almost goes up to the black lip cover thing on the windshield. but when you put the H22 upper on its not as tall. I was just wondering, since i have both options what you would recommend? Seems like an easy swap, except the confusion when losing the IACV or FITV whichever one it is...and all the coolant lines, but im sure i will figure it out. Great DIY!
    I am not sure about vs the F20B DOHC, but it IS significantly larger volume wise than any F22Ax plenum.

    Leave a comment:


  • bagoon316
    replied
    Is the H23/H22 upper plenum larger internally? Becuase the F20A DOHC which is similar to the A6 is a taller plenum. The plenum with a spacer added almost goes up to the black lip cover thing on the windshield. but when you put the H22 upper on its not as tall. I was just wondering, since i have both options what you would recommend? Seems like an easy swap, except the confusion when losing the IACV or FITV whichever one it is...and all the coolant lines, but im sure i will figure it out. Great DIY!

    Leave a comment:


  • PR CB7
    replied
    are u serious?
    i bet u most people will stripp bolts trying to torque the upper plenum

    make sure u torque the air filter bolts, and the fuel hose banjo bolt

    Leave a comment:


  • KINGPIN33
    replied
    Okay, I need help on the H23 FIV coolant line. There are two coolant nipples for the FIV. One of them is on the throttle body itself and the other is on the FIV. Which one is the inlet and which one is the outlet?

    Also, why can't you use the old throttle body coolant lines which were used to warm the plate? Are they not long enough or something?

    Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • bcjammerx
    replied
    instead of trying to fix a broken part...just replace it. short ram, cai, or prelude intake...or stock f22 stretched...either way, I wouldn't waste your time on a broken part

    Leave a comment:


  • KINGPIN33
    replied
    Originally posted by HondaFan81
    Torque it down evenly until all is flush, then give it a good commone sense snug and it's fine. Making sure you properly clean & seal it with RTV or whatever gasket is involved is a main part of getting a good seal.

    Torque specs are more important on critical things such as building the core of a motor, valvetrain area, etc. Doing suspension, brake and bolt-on type parts, common sense applies. You get this with experience and torque based on the size of the bolt/screw.
    Thanks for the advise HondaFan. I'm just use to reading my other car's manual which has the torque spec for every single bolt and nut.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X