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ENG: Replace your alternator's brushes (brush set)

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    ENG: Replace your alternator's brushes (brush set)

    (Original thread: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...648#post677648)

    Summary of why this fixed my problem:

    With multimeter on the battery, and car running, I had no more than about 12v, which means the alternator wasn't doing much (some maybe, not much). Overvoltage (more than about 13v) isn't a worn brushes problem, although very low or no alternator output could have instead been something else such as the regulator, diodes, crappy connections internally or externally etc. etc.

    But the reason I tried new brushes first was partly because stuff on Hondas tends to wear out before they break --- although aftermarket rebuilt alternators might be a different story. That's why my car has its original alternator back on, even with 250,xxx miles, not an auto parts store rebuilt one.

    I got a new set of brushes, courtesy of Monsignor phatdoughnut (thanks again!)

    Cost: Somewhere between $10 and $30, depending on if you can find them locally in stock vs. ordering them over the Internet. Use a phone book for the former; Google for the latter. Major chain auto stores will not have alternator brushes. Shops that specialize in auto electrical parts and/or alternator/starter rebuilds are what you want <<< again, if you can find one.

    Another option is to punt the whole operation and get a junkyard alternator. Highly recommended you stick with OEM Honda, and have it tested. Cost: approx. $35-$60 for one pulled from a car with less than 100,xxx. <<< Not a bad way to go, when you think about it!

    (TypeG told me that how you can tell if it's OEM vs. rebuilt is that the back of the OEM unit is bare metal, rebuilt ones have painted backs.)

    OK, here's what's involved:
    Step 1) Remove alternator from car.

    Step 2) Remove three 8mm nuts from back of alternator, remove the alternator's "B" post plastic insulator (12mm nut). The (B)attery post is the single post where you previously removed the cable that supplies 12v+ juice.

    Step 3) Unscrew two screws holding in old brush set. Replace with new, being careful to install the new in the same way.

    Step 4) There is no step 4 <<< sorry, an old Macintosh joke

    Note 1) When viewed from the side, you'll see that one side is slightly taller/different. Sorry, I don't have that picture but you'll see it.

    Note 2) You'll need something to hold back the brushes as you slip the assembly down over the rotor. In particular, you'll notice that there are 2 areas on the rotor, one area for each brush --- with a gap or groove in between. Without something to hold both brushes back sufficiently, the bottom brush will go into the groove, preventing the assembly from seating fully. I used a jigsaw blade, but even that was almost too thick to fit in there. A flatblade screwdriver is definitely too thick.

    ^^ Don't worry, when get into the project this will make sense.

    Note 3) My new brush assembly was a tight fit. The plastic insulator that makes up the bulk of the assembly was slightly wider than the original (less than 1/8" bigger) and it kept catching and I couldn't figure out why. Just pushing a little more did the trick.

    So here's the old and new. Note that the old was worn so much (car had 250,xxx miles) the brushes were down at the bottom of their circular wear indicators; you can see them easier on the new one. Another major clue that the old ones were worn was that the assembly easily slid in or out of the alternator, suggesting the brushes were just barely touching the rotor.

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

    #2
    whats monsigner? you mean monsieur? nice diy

    CrzyTuning now offering port services

    Comment


      #3
      The reading from the battery with the engine on is supposed to be 12V<X<13V to ensure a good alternator?

      ...adjust accordingly

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by d112crzy
        whats monsigner? you mean monsieur? nice diy
        Monsieur is French for "Mister". Monsignor, although it comes from the French Mon Seigneur (my lord) is typically a high-ranking Catholic priest but in casual settings I sometimes use it to describe any "persons high in rank or power". A term of respect, you might say.

        LinX, don't quote me on that narrow range. There is more specific info elsewhere on this site, and more detailed testing. But my readings never budged from 12.2v; that's low --- and low enough to make the battery dash light come on.

        With a healthy alternator it'll be a little higher even at idle, and rise to 13.5v or 14.something? when revved. I don't recall what the upper limit is, but if I saw a reading of say, 15v I'd begin to wonder if the regulator was regulating.
        >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

        Comment


          #5
          10-4 Ill check my helms.

          ...adjust accordingly

          Comment


            #6
            i think the helms said anything above 14.7 or something.. And yeah holy moses your brushes were toast!

            good times..

            Mon Seigneur (my lord) is typically a high-ranking Catholic priest
            do i get to molest little kids?
            H22 Prelude VTEC 92-96 200 161 10.6:1 87 90 DOHC VTEC 2157 JDM

            190.3whp 155 wtq - with bolt ons, and a dc header

            ET=14.457 @ 94mph w/ 2.173 60Fter

            Comment


              #7
              damn, now that i see the brushes on a bigger screen.....damn they were worn. i remember saying i didn't see much of a difference on the camera screen. later.
              Avoiding dirt at all costs

              Comment


                #8
                IF anyone needs brushes i can get the assembly for like 15.xx and like 60 cents shipping. Sometimes he can get just the brushes for 10.xx but then you have to take the time to unsolder the olds ones, and solder the new ones in.
                H22 Prelude VTEC 92-96 200 161 10.6:1 87 90 DOHC VTEC 2157 JDM

                190.3whp 155 wtq - with bolt ons, and a dc header

                ET=14.457 @ 94mph w/ 2.173 60Fter

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by phatdoughnut
                  IF anyone needs brushes i can get the assembly for like 15.xx and like 60 cents shipping. Sometimes he can get just the brushes for 10.xx but then you have to take the time to unsolder the olds ones, and solder the new ones in.
                  ill keep that in mind.
                  I <3 G60.

                  0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    i might need to do this soon i will check my out put tomm. yo phat can you still get these?

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                    Comment


                      #11
                      Bumping this thread for when I look to this thread for directions on Thursday night.

                      Thanks OP!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        So, I stripped the screws that hold the brushes in place, though, it looks like they're actually screw-bolts. Does anyone know what size hex-head those bolts take? I tried a 7mm, and 6mm, and didn't seem to get anywhere. Are they actually smaller than 6mm, or did the socket just not seat on the head?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          great DIY... got my worn brush right here...typing with dirty mechanic fingers is bhard...but should i replace this brush before replacing the wholle alt.?? cuz my sympton sounds just llike this where it loses battery voltage...

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                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by doylna
                            So, I stripped the screws that hold the brushes in place, though, it looks like they're actually screw-bolts. Does anyone know what size hex-head those bolts take? I tried a 7mm, and 6mm, and didn't seem to get anywhere. Are they actually smaller than 6mm, or did the socket just not seat on the head?
                            I ended up removing the whole alternator, after removing the power steering pump.

                            Removing the power steering pump is very similar - loosen the top 14MM bolt, find the 12mm nut underneath the pump and take it all the way off, remove the left 10mm bolt directly under the pump and lift it out of the way. if you're careful, you won't have to remove the lines from the pump, and you can set it out of the way.

                            After removing the alternator, I used a #2 Phillips head screwdriver (#1 will strip your screws) to remove the screws holding the brushes in. I came pretty close to stripping my screws but was able to use a hammer and the #2 to recreate the screwhead enough to remove the screws (using a ton of downward pressure to keep from stripping the head again).

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by deckeda
                              Note 1) When viewed from the side, you'll see that one side is slightly taller/different. Sorry, I don't have that picture but you'll see it.
                              Looking from the top down, the left side is the taller side, and therefore, the right side is lower: See photo.


                              Originally posted by deckeda
                              Note 2) You'll need something to hold back the brushes as you slip the assembly down over the rotor. In particular, you'll notice that there are 2 areas on the rotor, one area for each brush --- with a gap or groove in between. Without something to hold both brushes back sufficiently, the bottom brush will go into the groove, preventing the assembly from seating fully. I used a jigsaw blade, but even that was almost too thick to fit in there. A flatblade screwdriver is definitely too thick.
                              I used a safety pin opened up. All you have to do is slip the first brush over the spindle, then use the pin to move the second brush back enough to slip it too over the spindle.

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