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A/C: The A/C delete DIY

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    A/C: The A/C delete DIY

    Hopefully pictures coming soon!
    Disclaimer: Before you attempt this, you should make sure your A/C system is fully discharged. I am not responsible for an injury or damage caused by incorrect procedure. The best and safest way is to have a shop vacuum the refrigerant out, short of that you could always crack a fitting and have it blow out all over you and your car…you’re choice, I vac’d mine, that’s what I’d recommend.

    So, many of you have expressed interest in an A/C delete DIY! So here it is.
    There are several different levels of thoroughness. I went for the second level.

    Basically:
    1st. Remove compressor, visible lines in engine bay and receiver/drier.
    2nd. Remove compressor, bracket, all visible lines, condenser (the little radiator in front of the engine radiator), wiring, relays, A/C fan, receiver/drier (the little silver can by washer fluid/cruise control), and all lines to the evaporator (in car radiator).
    3rd. Everything in 2nd and the evaporator.

    I chose not to remove the evaporator because its an insane amount of work for one little part.

    Materials needed:
    -5pk-0955 belt, this is the belt that will drive the alternator without the A/C compressor. Its for a DX accordmodel without A/C
    -Brain
    -Tools

    Removing EVER other component of the A/C system took me about 2 hours, but I have power tools and a lift.

    SO …. All that said, here goes:

    1. Make sure system is fully discharged, as refrigerant gas is highly pressurized.

    2. Break the fittings that are right behind the radiator on the trannie side. Then remove the 12mm nuts that attach the two lines to the compressor. Remove the lines as best as possible. (FIRST PIECE GONE!!!)

    3. Remove hood latch assembly and radiator support (several 10mm bolts around the radiator). This enables you to remove the condenser. That little, annoying radiator in front of the big one. It is only held in by the two lines that connect to it and to little bolts (10mm I believe).

    4. Once that is detached from the car it will wiggle out. Remove. Then you have a mess of different lines. I can’t really describe how to get them out just detach and wiggle, it is pretty much common sense. At this point, you will have to find the two lines that go the receiver/drier (little can by washer fluid) with a 14mm wrench. BE CAREFUL not to disconnect the P/S fluid cooler lines, that weird little line that has a whole bunch of fins on it… that would be bad.

    5. Then I removed the A/C fan. This is the fan on the drivers side of the radiator. It only runs when the A/C is one, since we’re removing that, it might as well come out (And it looks really nice without it!) There are three 10mm bolts two on top and one on bottom, and a wire connector then it just pulls out.

    6. Then, there are four bolts holding the A/C compressor to the bracket, they are 10mm. remove them. Untension the belt (tensioner on the alternator) and remove the alternator (I found it easier, probably could have done without taking it out.) then remove A/C compressor! You can also remove the bracket from the engine block (four 14mm bolts), to make it look clean and shave about 5 lbs.

    7. At this point I disconnected the receiver/drier its held in from beneath (remove plastic fender liner) by two little bolts.

    8. Finish disconnecting and removing the lines from the front. Now, wiring. All that wiring in the front left corner that messes around up there including those two little round plastic covered relays are related to the A/C all that can be disconnected and removed. It’s a little stub harness and can be disconnected by a plug underneath the P/S fluid reservoir, then unbolted and disconnected. You will have to clip a few of those little wire ties they use.

    9. The last piece I removed was the lines what went up the passengers side to the evaporator. These are easy if you don’t have ABS (it’s a 17 and 14mm wrench and a few minutes. If you have ABS you have to struggle and wrench around under the modulator. To remove these lines, I took out the airbox (I’m stock) and disconnected the bracket on the strut tower that holds them in. If they are fully disconnected they should wiggle around, but they are too long to just pull out, I ended up bending and wiggling for about 3 minutes to get mine out (hell they ain’t going back in anyways).

    10. Thats about, reinstall and tension alternator with NEW belt, replace radiator support and hood latch. Clean up and marvel at the sexiness of the A/C’less engine bay


    Proud owner of the only JJDM full 2.5" catback exhaust!

    #2
    Thanks for the write up, good info here. Even without pics I should be able to find my way around.
    Originally posted by 92dm
    I was actually just being a smart ass, and not really contributing to this at all.
    VOUCHES
    Bought from: cb95spd

    Comment


      #3
      Yea, Im going to take some pics of a different CB with A/C and highlight the hard stuff and post those, probably later tonight!


      Proud owner of the only JJDM full 2.5" catback exhaust!

      Comment


        #4
        god dammit.. I took out the fan on my passenger side! Are you sure the drivers side fan is the correct one to remove?

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by ExCoupe92
          god dammit.. I took out the fan on my passenger side! Are you sure the drivers side fan is the correct one to remove?
          Yes, triple positive. Its the smaller of the two, and it's hooked into the A/C wiring, and that's the way Honda typically does it, A/c on drivers, cooling on passengers. Bummer dude get that fixed before too long or you'll overheat!


          Proud owner of the only JJDM full 2.5" catback exhaust!

          Comment


            #6
            i deleted my ac......with a saw sal (or what ever its called) everyone ran when cutting freon lines haha (we discharged the system but i guess there was still a tiny bit in there) ......wish i did it this way

            Comment


              #7
              Yup, it ain't that hard. I was debating selling mine, which is why I didn't cut it, but that would have maybe been easier. My way would have been a lot easier if I had taken the bumper off!


              Proud owner of the only JJDM full 2.5" catback exhaust!

              Comment


                #8
                bump. about to do this.
                1993 Honda Accord LX
                2006 Yamaha R6
                2004 Acura TSX

                Comment


                  #9
                  What are the benefits of deleting ac unit ? More engine bay space .? Could you still boost/ turbo even with the ac unit still on ?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Xaniandy View Post
                    What are the benefits of deleting ac unit ? More engine bay space .? Could you still boost/ turbo even with the ac unit still on ?
                    Weight reduction.
                    Bay space.

                    You can still go turbo with a/c, but may require custom, one off, parts to make it compatible and clear the other components.

                    Mind you, a traction bar will grant more room for running pipes too and have more clearance.

                    MRT

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