so once the rocker arm assembly is off the car, can it be made easier?
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Originally posted by starchlandso once the rocker arm assembly is off the car, can it be made easier?Former: 90 Accord EX Coupe, 93 10th Anniversary in Frost White
1985 Volvo 245 manual [IPD lowering springs, IPD sway bars, OEM Virgo wheels, 1977 quad round headlights, 1978 grill]
2001 Mazda B3000 SE 4x4 extended cab [stock except for CB radio]
2008 Ford Escape XLT [bone stock]
2015 Toyota Prius Three with solar roof [rear diffuser, Vision Cross wheels... cheaper than steelies!]
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Originally posted by FishyManWhen you guys talk about having a 2nd person holding the trans end, do you guys mean near the 4th valve? I don't know where the bearing cap is to hold the cam down. As you can tell, I have my timing belt on, so therefore the tension is created. I just d k exactly where I should watch out and where the bearing cap is located.Former: 90 Accord EX Coupe, 93 10th Anniversary in Frost White
1985 Volvo 245 manual [IPD lowering springs, IPD sway bars, OEM Virgo wheels, 1977 quad round headlights, 1978 grill]
2001 Mazda B3000 SE 4x4 extended cab [stock except for CB radio]
2008 Ford Escape XLT [bone stock]
2015 Toyota Prius Three with solar roof [rear diffuser, Vision Cross wheels... cheaper than steelies!]
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Originally posted by FishyManin another thread, i posted, someone suggested that i didn't need anyone to hold anything down? even w/ timing belt on?
so do u mean near the distributor end or belt?
Note: The camshaft bearing caps are removed together with the rocker arm assembly. To prevent the opposite end (transaxle end) of the camshaft from popping up (due to timing belt tension) after the assembly is removed, have another able body hold the opposite end of the camshaft down, then reinstall the bearing cap on that end to hold it in place until reassembly (if timing belt remains installed, but is easiest while changing timing belt when there no tension on the cam gear).
The transaxle end would be the end with the distributor. If the timing belt's on, the end will want to pop up, as the timing belt will be tight. If the timing belt is off, holding the distributor end down will not be necessary.Former: 90 Accord EX Coupe, 93 10th Anniversary in Frost White
1985 Volvo 245 manual [IPD lowering springs, IPD sway bars, OEM Virgo wheels, 1977 quad round headlights, 1978 grill]
2001 Mazda B3000 SE 4x4 extended cab [stock except for CB radio]
2008 Ford Escape XLT [bone stock]
2015 Toyota Prius Three with solar roof [rear diffuser, Vision Cross wheels... cheaper than steelies!]
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regarding my other message, once the valve assembly is taken off the car, can the valve adjustment be made off the car, and is it easier?
"You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
"the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
"Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland
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No, the valves cannot be adjusted with the rocker arm assembly off the head. The rockers need to be adjusted in place. If the arms are adjusted off the car you'll end up with valve clearances way off; either too much clearance so that the rocker arms will slap the tops of the valves, making a loud ticking or clicking sound, or so tight that the valve won't lift all the way up out of the cylinder and the piston will contact the valve, thereby bending it; if that happens there will be a top-end rebuild in your future.Former: 90 Accord EX Coupe, 93 10th Anniversary in Frost White
1985 Volvo 245 manual [IPD lowering springs, IPD sway bars, OEM Virgo wheels, 1977 quad round headlights, 1978 grill]
2001 Mazda B3000 SE 4x4 extended cab [stock except for CB radio]
2008 Ford Escape XLT [bone stock]
2015 Toyota Prius Three with solar roof [rear diffuser, Vision Cross wheels... cheaper than steelies!]
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"To do so, rotate the crankshaft pulley clockwise until the timing pointer on the block lines up with the TDC "
When you say to rotate the crank pully clockwise, thats wrong. It should be counterclockwise. The Hayes manual has a typo.
The correct engine rotation is counterclockwise.
I'm thinking about doing the lower seals. Is is really neccessary to have someone else hold the cam down on the transaxle side? Or could I do this myself with my left hand, while removing the assembly with my right?Last edited by 4CYLPOWER92; 05-01-2005, 12:06 AM.
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Originally posted by 4CYLPOWER92The Hayes manual has a typo.
The correct engine rotation is counterclockwise.
Originally posted by 4CYLPOWER92I'm thinking about doing the lower seals. Is is really neccessary to have someone else hold the cam down on the transaxle side? Or could I do this myself with my left hand, while removing the assembly with my right?Former: 90 Accord EX Coupe, 93 10th Anniversary in Frost White
1985 Volvo 245 manual [IPD lowering springs, IPD sway bars, OEM Virgo wheels, 1977 quad round headlights, 1978 grill]
2001 Mazda B3000 SE 4x4 extended cab [stock except for CB radio]
2008 Ford Escape XLT [bone stock]
2015 Toyota Prius Three with solar roof [rear diffuser, Vision Cross wheels... cheaper than steelies!]
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Originally posted by ACCORDianateIts your car, do what you will, but you have the tension of the timing belt, if you still have it on, to deal with.
You're right. I was just wondering cause I have it all apart right now with no one to help. And I'm thinking that all the rockers and cam holders will sag down from gravity once the assembly is lifted. Is that what happens?
I guess I could always loosen the tensioner bolt on the timming cover. But I'm not sure I want to mess with that.
BTW, do you have to remove the upper bolt on the distributor mount? It looks like its all connected.
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4cylpower92. if u do it alone let me know. i kind of have to end up doing this alone as well as i dont have anyone to really help.
i have my timing belt on, and really am not sure exactly where to hold down and etc, despite reading this over and over and looking at some pics. i think its one of those things, where once u do it, u'll get it and see what needs to be held down. i hope that this is what will happen.
if u do happen to do it, or if anybody please post pics as to exactly where to hold down and what to do as i take off rocker and have it off to the side.
thanks..hahahahah
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Just got all my parts in the mail so i'm attempting this on Saturday. I'll let ya know how it went. Just need to rent a torque wrench from the auto parts store. I believe that insted of holding the cam down, you can simply loosen the timming belt tensioner nut on the timming cover. But then you have to properly put the tension back on the belt and re-tighten the bolt afterwards....but the manual explains this (I think), so it should be no prob.
I have no way of posting pic's yet. I'm working on that though.
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