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    #31
    I was wondering how you get the trim back on? I ask this because the clips on the side of the windshield will not stay on the trim. So my trim isnt sitting flush with the glass.


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      #32
      Originally posted by 90ACCORDLXGUY
      I was wondering how you get the trim back on? I ask this because the clips on the side of the windshield will not stay on the trim. So my trim isnt sitting flush with the glass.
      Yeah I have that same problem with mine on the top part of the glass trim. Those clips f**king suck ass. I'm pretty sure I didn't break anything when I popped all the trim off, but my top piece keeps popping off and won't stay flush.

      I looked up new rear window trim and its crazy expensive. It's about $160 to get the whole setup. Lame!
      1990 Accord LX Sedan, B-49M

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        #33
        rehosted pics upon request! enjoy kids.
        1cor10:31
        - 92 LX coupe
        - 96 EX wagon (sold)

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          #34
          cb7 with sunroof?

          Originally posted by timmy0tool View Post
          rehosted pics upon request! enjoy kids.
          Question, do you have any experience with leaky sunroofs? It seems that the drain hoses that run the water out of our sunroof travels through the interior out the trunk? Any ideas? Thanks

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            #35
            Sorry to bump up a old thread but I plan on doing this tomorrow, I was wondering what type of silicone should I use? I also hope i dont break any clips.

            I also bumped this cause this is a VERY usefull thread!
            Cappuccino Member #9<--- click for thread


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              #36
              Has anyone tried this recently? I am hoping someone took come actualy pics of the process. I am worried about breaking the clips.

              When I do it, I will take some pics and detail the process.

              Thanks

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                #37
                I did this over the weekend, it's very easy. The clips shouldn't break, I only popped off the trim on the bottom, just past the radius on the bottom corners. There's a clip just above this point, it pops right outta the clip once you get the lower part free. I resealed mine, but its still leaking. Wasnt the fix for mine, but glad I did it anyways, the factory seals were def dried out. Good luck!!


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                  #38
                  I just did mine, too. A recommendation to anyone who attempts this. If you can't get the trim clips out, screw the screws back in, unscrew the completely, then puch them in again. I had a few that wouldn't come out. I pried one out and it kind of damaged the metal part on the body of the car. The other two I had trouble with that wouldn't come out even though I pushed the screw in, I tightened the screws again, unscrewed them, then pushed it back down. Both finally let go and I was able to get them out.

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by AndyD View Post
                    I just did mine, too. A recommendation to anyone who attempts this. If you can't get the trim clips out, screw the screws back in, unscrew the completely, then puch them in again. I had a few that wouldn't come out. I pried one out and it kind of damaged the metal part on the body of the car. The other two I had trouble with that wouldn't come out even though I pushed the screw in, I tightened the screws again, unscrewed them, then pushed it back down. Both finally let go and I was able to get them out.
                    The correct way to remove the clips is to back the screw almost completely out, then push (not screw) it down, this retracts the plastic barbs that hold it in the car), while pushing down on the screw, lift the trim and the clip should slide out. I used some closed cell foam (with adhesive on one side) to make replacement gaskets so it can be easily disassembled again if necessary. When putting the clips back in, push the clips and the screw down, then while holding the clip down, tighten the screw. Make sure the clip is seated well. Using a heat gun to soften the rubber helps get it out of the way and prevents cracking when accessing the screws.

                    Other potential leak sources not noted previously are the plastic nuts and gasket for the quarter vent, the seam for the gas filler pocket to quarter panel (just fixed both today on my wife's LX). I also recently fixed a leak into the passenger area which was through the clips that attach the chrome strip just above the doors.j On 90-91, there is a continuous rubber strip under the chrome, and an individual small gasket at each clip. One or two of the clips on my 90 weren't engaged well after reinstalling after paint, and the water was leaking down inside the A pillar to under the carpet.
                    90 LX 4dr 5 spd 389,000 - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                    07 Element EX AWD 193,000 - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=210623
                    07 Element EX AWD AT (2) 89,000 - MRT: www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=211920

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                      #40
                      Hi!

                      Sorry to bump this thread again. I have no idea how to remove the back trim. Mines doesnt have the screws. When I open the trunk, the middle part of the trim is just empty.

                      Have no idea where/how to start.

                      Thanks

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                        #41
                        The screws are under the rubber lip on the bottom/back of the trim. It lifts easier if you warm it up with a heat gun or hair dryer.
                        90 LX 4dr 5 spd 389,000 - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                        07 Element EX AWD 193,000 - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=210623
                        07 Element EX AWD AT (2) 89,000 - MRT: www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=211920

                        LOTS of CB7 parts - ENTIRE COLLECTION - FREE
                        Come and get it. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=192583

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                          #42
                          Heyyyyy, I'm actually glad someone woke this thread up. I'm having the same issue with my sedan AND coupe. So there is a screw that holds the rear window trim down? Could you provide a picture of the location. I'm not seeing it on my Honda service manual

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                            #43
                            There are eight clips, four on each side under the trim. The clips mount to the underside of the trim. When installing the trim on the body, the screws are backed out, this allows the barbs on the clips to fit into the square holes in the body. When the screws are tightened, it pulls the clip and trim down tight to the body. Each clip has a "gasket" on the face that contacts the body to prevent leakage. I don't have a picture available, but I know I've seen one on here - I'll see if I can find it.

                            May 13, 2017: The SE coupe was leaking from the clip gaskets; got some photos while fixing it:

                            Clip removed after backing the screw out and pushing it down:


                            Clip with the screw screwed in to show the barbs exposed; these grab the underside of the sheet metal:


                            Gasket made from closed cell foam:
                            Last edited by Fleetw00d; 02-13-2018, 11:13 PM.
                            90 LX 4dr 5 spd 389,000 - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                            07 Element EX AWD 193,000 - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=210623
                            07 Element EX AWD AT (2) 89,000 - MRT: www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=211920

                            LOTS of CB7 parts - ENTIRE COLLECTION - FREE
                            Come and get it. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=192583

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                              #44
                              I've posted this in 2 other threads, but i feel its beneficial:

                              Also, instead of buying Honda OEM tail light gaskets, I went to Michaels (craft store) and bought sheets of 6mm thick foam. Hopefully that'll be my fix instead of the window channel plugs, I'll probably do those too, now that I know about it.

                              But anyways, each sheet is .99 cents and covers 1 tail light 9x12", so you'll need 4 sheets. The material is a little thicker than preferred, 5mm thick is ideal, but does the job.

                              You just have to be careful and pre-crush the foam along the tail light prior to installation otherwise you'll snap those delicate 8mm bolts which should be tightened with your hand.

                              You don't even want to use a wrench to tighten those either, given the age of the tailights in most cases are at least 21 yrs old if original and not replaced. I either took a 1/4" 8mm deep socket or a 3/8's 8mm with a 2 inch extension and tightened them all by hand and no more. You will snap them off if you use a wrench, so go easy. I just did mine last night in my 92 LX 4dr and i snapped 2 off using the 1/4" wrench when tightening, but luckily i had water proof/rubberized super glue (loctite) that helped seal them back to the housing and worked.

                              Total cost was about 8 bucks including the 4 sheets of foam and an Xacto knife i bought to cut them to match the old ones. Oh yeah, use an IKEA cutting board (.99 cents), those can take a beating without damaging your table.

                              http://www.michaels.com/M10390268.ht...sheet&start=10

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                                #45
                                Very good tip. Thanks for posting that info.


                                1991 Accord LX .

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