INT: Sound deadening

[accordict]

Did you make the access holes still be able to open.... I cannot tell from the pics but maybe looks like you covered something else to still be able to remove it...like a door?

[Jon]

Did you make the access holes still be able to open.... I cannot tell from the pics but maybe looks like you covered something else to still be able to remove it...like a door?

I made sheet metal panels that I then applied CLD mat to, siliconed and screwed to the door to create a super tight seal. Yes it'll be a pain to fix anything that might go wrong in the door, but I've had my doors sealed up this way for a little over three years now and not a single problem has cropped up *fingers still crossed*.






And again I must be vigilant about this and reiterate...
I went overboard, I didn't know much about sound deadening when I first did this and have since learned a lot. Amazing results can be achieved without covering every square inch of sheet metal and without breaking the bank!

[accordict]

thx for the pic.....So as for the doors, if you were to do it again to another car would u just do the back side of the outside skin or just the frame(the place where you made the sheet metal panels for(?

[Jon]

thx for the pic.....So as for the doors, if you were to do it again to another car would u just do the back side of the outside skin or just the frame(the place where you made the sheet metal panels for(?

The backside of the outside door skin. It's flatter therefor it takes to sound deadening better. It's closer to the road/outside world, therefor it's bombarded with more sound thus it transfer that sound more easily.

If I were to do my doors again and was looking to make it as quiet as possible, I would do it exactly like this:

1. Apply a CLD mat (Second Skin Damplifier Pro Black would be my choice) to the backside of the outside door skin, covering approximately 75% of the panel (about 4-6 sq. ft. of material).
2. Install a MLV to the same surface. This requires a lot of work and can be quite difficult. You also need to make sure you use a MLV product that can withstand some exposure to water. Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro would be my choice as it is made with a closed cell foam so water wouldn't be an issue. About 4.5 sq. ft. worth of material.
3. Apply 1 sq. ft. of a CLD mat around the opening for the speaker.
4. Apply a foam product (such as Second Skin Rattle Pad, OverKill, or OverKill Pro) on the door frame to prevent the plastic trim of the door from rattling. About 6 sq. ft. should do.

And that's it! To do the two front doors exactly like that it would cost approximately $130. This of course is more then what most people need or want.
If you are on a smaller budget I would omit the Damplifier Pro for regular ol Damplifier and not use the MLV. This would save you a lot of money and give you some really good results.

[Gummiegorilla]

I was looking at the Damplifier and it runs bout 100$ for 40sqft. Seems well worth the investment , esp to elliminate a majority of road noise. If you dont mind me asking, how much did all the sound deading material cost for you CB in the long run ?

[Jon]

I was looking at the Damplifier and it runs bout 100$ for 40sqft. Seems well worth the investment , esp to elliminate a majority of road noise. If you dont mind me asking, how much did all the sound deading material cost for you CB in the long run ?

Well I'm not a very good example...

I did some work for the owner (Anthony) and built up a bunch of store credit. I placed my order and the Damplifier was out of stock so he upgraded my order to Damplifier Pro. So like I said, I'm not a very good example.