How to remove and install a clutch for 1990-95 Accords
Figures 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14
1. Disconnect the battery cables and remove the battery. If so equipped, disable the
Supplemental Restraint System
(SRS), as described in .
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the air intake hose and battery base.
4. Disconnect the starter wires and remove the starter.
5. Disconnect the trans axle ground cable and the back-up light switch wire.
6. Remove the cable support and then disconnect the cables from the top housing of the trans
axle. Remove both cables and the support together; do not remove the clips holding the cables to the support.
Fig. 7: Disconnecting the trans axle cables.
Fig. 8: Remove the speed sensor, but leave its hoses connected.
1. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the engine splash shield and drain the trans axle fluid.
3. Remove the mounting bolts and clutch slave cylinder with the clutch pipe and push rod.
4. Remove the mounting bolt and clutch hose joint with the clutch pipe and clutch hose.
Do not operate the clutch pedal once the slave cylinder has been removed. Be careful not to bend
the pipe.
1. Remove the center beam and the header pipe.
2. Remove the cotter pins and lower arm ball joint nuts. Separate the ball joints and lower
arms.
3. Remove the damper fork bolt.
Fig. 9: Disconnect the ball joint and damper fork.
# Pry the right and left half shafts out of the differential and the intermediate shaft. Pull on
the inboard joint and remove the right and left half shafts.
# Remove the 3 mounting bolts and lower the bearing support.
# Remove the intermediate shaft from the differential.
Fig. 10: Remove the intermediate shaft and protect the splined ends by covering them with plastic.
-Remove the right damper pinch bolt, then separate the damper fork and damper. Remove the bolts and nut, then remove the right radius rod.
Fig. 11: Radius rod removal.
-Remove the engine stiffener and the clutch cover.
Fig. 12: The engine stiffener and clutch cover are secured by bolts.
1. Remove the intake manifold bracket.
2. Remove the rear engine mount bracket support and remove the 3 rear engine mount bracket mounting bolts.
Fig. 13: Removing the rear engine support and trans axle bolts.
# Remove the trans axle housing mounting bolt on the engine side. Swing the right half shaft to the inner fender.
# Place a suitable jack under the trans axle and raise the trans axle just enough to take the
weight off the mounts.
Fig. 14: Place a suitable jack under the trans axle and raise the trans axle just enough to take the weight off its mounts.
1. Remove the trans axle mount bolt and loosen the mount bracket nuts.
2. Remove the 3 trans axle housing mounting bolts.
3. Remove the trans axle from the vehicle.
WAIT: Let me get you the clutch procedure.
Answer
Fig. 5: Clutch assembly components on 1990-95 Accords.
# Remove the trans axle from the vehicle. Match mark the flywheel and clutch for reassembly.
# Hold the flywheel ring gear with a tool made for this purpose, remove the retaining bolts and remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Remove the bolts 2 turns at a time working in a crisscross pattern, to prevent warping the pressure plate.
# Remove the assembly from the flywheel.
# At this time, inspect the flywheel for wear, cracks or scoring and replace, as necessary.
Resurfacing the flywheel surface is recommended if hot spots are visible.
# If the clutch release bearing is to be replaced, perform the following procedure on all except
Prelude and 1990-95 Accords:
1. Remove the 8mm bolt.
2. Remove the release shaft and the release bearing assembly.
3. Separate the release fork from the bearing by removing the release fork spring from the holes in the release bearing.
# To remove the release bearing on Prelude and 1990-95 Accord, perform the following procedure:
1. Remove the boot from the clutch housing.
2. Remove the release fork from the clutch housing by squeezing the release fork set spring.
3. Remove the release bearing from the release fork.
# Check the release bearing for excessive play by spinning it by hand. Replace if there is
excessive play. The bearing is packed with grease; do not wash it in solvent.
Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc as an assembly.
To install:
If the flywheel was removed, make sure the flywheel and crankshaft mating surfaces are clean.
Align the hole in the flywheel with the crankshaft dowel pin and install the flywheel bolts
finger-tight. Install the ring gear holder and tighten the flywheel bolts in a crisscross
pattern. Tighten the flywheel bolts to 76 ft. lbs. (105 Nm) on Prelude and Accord.
Insert a clutch disc alignment tool into the splined hole in the disc, then tighten the bolts to specification.
# Install the clutch disc and pressure plate by aligning the dowels on the flywheel with the dowel holes in the pressure plate. If the same pressure plate is being installed that was
removed, align the marks that were made during the removal procedure. Install the pressure plate bolts finger-tight.
# Insert a clutch disc alignment tool into the splined hole in the clutch disc. These inexpensive tools are available at most auto supply or parts stores. Using the tool assures that the clutch disc and pressure plate are exactly centered. Tighten the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern 2 turns at a time to prevent warping the pressure plate. The final torque should be 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
# Remove the alignment tool and ring gear holder.
# If the release bearing was removed, replace it in the reverse order of the removal procedure.
Place a light coat of molybdenum disulfide grease on the inside diameter of the bearing prior to installation.
# Install the trans axle, making sure the main shaft is properly aligned with the clutch disc
splines and the trans axle case is properly aligned with the cylinder block, before tightening the trans axle case bolts.
# Make sure the 4 dowel pins are installed.
# Raise the trans axle into position.
# Install the 3 trans axle mounting bolts and tighten to 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
# Install the trans axle mount and mount bracket. Install the through-bolt and tighten
temporarily. Make sure the engine is level and tighten the 3 mount bracket nuts to 40 ft.lbs. (55 Nm). Tighten the through-bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
# Install the trans axle housing mounting bolts on the engine side and tighten to 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
# Install the 3 rear engine bracket mounting bolts and tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
# Install the rear engine mount bracket stay. Tighten the mounting bolt to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) and then tighten the mounting nut to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).
# Install the intake manifold bracket and tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
# Install the clutch cover and tighten the bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
# Install the engine stiffener and loosely install the mounting bolts. Tighten the
stiffener-to-trans axle case mounting bolt to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm), then tighten the 2
stiffener-to-cylinder block mounting bolts to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) beginning with the bolt closest to the trans axle.
# Install the radius rod. Tighten the radius rod mounting bolts to 76 ft. lbs. (105 Nm) and the radius rod nut to 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
# Install the damper fork. Tighten the damper pinch bolt to 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
# Install the intermediate shaft.
# Install a new snap ring on the end of each half shaft. Install the right and left half shafts.
Turn the right and left steering knuckle fully outward and slide the axle into the differential until the spring clip is felt to engage in the differential side gear.
# Install the damper fork bolt and ball joint nut to the lower arms. Tighten the nut while
holding the damper fork bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Tighten the ball joint nut to 40 ft. lbs.(55 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
# Install the header pipe and center beam. Tighten the center beam bolts to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
# Install the clutch hose joint and clutch slave cylinder to the trans axle housing. Tighten the slave cylinder mounting bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
# Install the speed sensor. Tighten the mounting bolt to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
# Install the shift cable and select cable to the shift arm lever and to the select lever respectively. Tighten the cable bracket mounting bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
# Connect the back-up light switch coupler.
# Install the starter.
# Install the trans axle ground cable.
# Install the front wheel and tire assemblies.
# Fill the trans axle with the proper type and quantity of oil.
# Lower the vehicle.
# Make clutch pedal adjustments.
# If applicable, enable the SRS as described in .
# Install the battery and connect the battery cables.
# Start the vehicle and check the trans axle for smooth operation.
Labor time from a shop is anywhere from 6-10 hours. Any other questions, please let me know.
Figures 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14
1. Disconnect the battery cables and remove the battery. If so equipped, disable the
Supplemental Restraint System
(SRS), as described in .
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the air intake hose and battery base.
4. Disconnect the starter wires and remove the starter.
5. Disconnect the trans axle ground cable and the back-up light switch wire.
6. Remove the cable support and then disconnect the cables from the top housing of the trans
axle. Remove both cables and the support together; do not remove the clips holding the cables to the support.
Fig. 7: Disconnecting the trans axle cables.
Fig. 8: Remove the speed sensor, but leave its hoses connected.
1. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the engine splash shield and drain the trans axle fluid.
3. Remove the mounting bolts and clutch slave cylinder with the clutch pipe and push rod.
4. Remove the mounting bolt and clutch hose joint with the clutch pipe and clutch hose.
Do not operate the clutch pedal once the slave cylinder has been removed. Be careful not to bend
the pipe.
1. Remove the center beam and the header pipe.
2. Remove the cotter pins and lower arm ball joint nuts. Separate the ball joints and lower
arms.
3. Remove the damper fork bolt.
Fig. 9: Disconnect the ball joint and damper fork.
# Pry the right and left half shafts out of the differential and the intermediate shaft. Pull on
the inboard joint and remove the right and left half shafts.
# Remove the 3 mounting bolts and lower the bearing support.
# Remove the intermediate shaft from the differential.
Fig. 10: Remove the intermediate shaft and protect the splined ends by covering them with plastic.
-Remove the right damper pinch bolt, then separate the damper fork and damper. Remove the bolts and nut, then remove the right radius rod.
Fig. 11: Radius rod removal.
-Remove the engine stiffener and the clutch cover.
Fig. 12: The engine stiffener and clutch cover are secured by bolts.
1. Remove the intake manifold bracket.
2. Remove the rear engine mount bracket support and remove the 3 rear engine mount bracket mounting bolts.
Fig. 13: Removing the rear engine support and trans axle bolts.
# Remove the trans axle housing mounting bolt on the engine side. Swing the right half shaft to the inner fender.
# Place a suitable jack under the trans axle and raise the trans axle just enough to take the
weight off the mounts.
Fig. 14: Place a suitable jack under the trans axle and raise the trans axle just enough to take the weight off its mounts.
1. Remove the trans axle mount bolt and loosen the mount bracket nuts.
2. Remove the 3 trans axle housing mounting bolts.
3. Remove the trans axle from the vehicle.
WAIT: Let me get you the clutch procedure.
Answer
Fig. 5: Clutch assembly components on 1990-95 Accords.
# Remove the trans axle from the vehicle. Match mark the flywheel and clutch for reassembly.
# Hold the flywheel ring gear with a tool made for this purpose, remove the retaining bolts and remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Remove the bolts 2 turns at a time working in a crisscross pattern, to prevent warping the pressure plate.
# Remove the assembly from the flywheel.
# At this time, inspect the flywheel for wear, cracks or scoring and replace, as necessary.
Resurfacing the flywheel surface is recommended if hot spots are visible.
# If the clutch release bearing is to be replaced, perform the following procedure on all except
Prelude and 1990-95 Accords:
1. Remove the 8mm bolt.
2. Remove the release shaft and the release bearing assembly.
3. Separate the release fork from the bearing by removing the release fork spring from the holes in the release bearing.
# To remove the release bearing on Prelude and 1990-95 Accord, perform the following procedure:
1. Remove the boot from the clutch housing.
2. Remove the release fork from the clutch housing by squeezing the release fork set spring.
3. Remove the release bearing from the release fork.
# Check the release bearing for excessive play by spinning it by hand. Replace if there is
excessive play. The bearing is packed with grease; do not wash it in solvent.
Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc as an assembly.
To install:
If the flywheel was removed, make sure the flywheel and crankshaft mating surfaces are clean.
Align the hole in the flywheel with the crankshaft dowel pin and install the flywheel bolts
finger-tight. Install the ring gear holder and tighten the flywheel bolts in a crisscross
pattern. Tighten the flywheel bolts to 76 ft. lbs. (105 Nm) on Prelude and Accord.
Insert a clutch disc alignment tool into the splined hole in the disc, then tighten the bolts to specification.
# Install the clutch disc and pressure plate by aligning the dowels on the flywheel with the dowel holes in the pressure plate. If the same pressure plate is being installed that was
removed, align the marks that were made during the removal procedure. Install the pressure plate bolts finger-tight.
# Insert a clutch disc alignment tool into the splined hole in the clutch disc. These inexpensive tools are available at most auto supply or parts stores. Using the tool assures that the clutch disc and pressure plate are exactly centered. Tighten the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern 2 turns at a time to prevent warping the pressure plate. The final torque should be 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
# Remove the alignment tool and ring gear holder.
# If the release bearing was removed, replace it in the reverse order of the removal procedure.
Place a light coat of molybdenum disulfide grease on the inside diameter of the bearing prior to installation.
# Install the trans axle, making sure the main shaft is properly aligned with the clutch disc
splines and the trans axle case is properly aligned with the cylinder block, before tightening the trans axle case bolts.
# Make sure the 4 dowel pins are installed.
# Raise the trans axle into position.
# Install the 3 trans axle mounting bolts and tighten to 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
# Install the trans axle mount and mount bracket. Install the through-bolt and tighten
temporarily. Make sure the engine is level and tighten the 3 mount bracket nuts to 40 ft.lbs. (55 Nm). Tighten the through-bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
# Install the trans axle housing mounting bolts on the engine side and tighten to 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
# Install the 3 rear engine bracket mounting bolts and tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
# Install the rear engine mount bracket stay. Tighten the mounting bolt to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) and then tighten the mounting nut to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).
# Install the intake manifold bracket and tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
# Install the clutch cover and tighten the bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
# Install the engine stiffener and loosely install the mounting bolts. Tighten the
stiffener-to-trans axle case mounting bolt to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm), then tighten the 2
stiffener-to-cylinder block mounting bolts to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) beginning with the bolt closest to the trans axle.
# Install the radius rod. Tighten the radius rod mounting bolts to 76 ft. lbs. (105 Nm) and the radius rod nut to 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
# Install the damper fork. Tighten the damper pinch bolt to 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
# Install the intermediate shaft.
# Install a new snap ring on the end of each half shaft. Install the right and left half shafts.
Turn the right and left steering knuckle fully outward and slide the axle into the differential until the spring clip is felt to engage in the differential side gear.
# Install the damper fork bolt and ball joint nut to the lower arms. Tighten the nut while
holding the damper fork bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Tighten the ball joint nut to 40 ft. lbs.(55 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
# Install the header pipe and center beam. Tighten the center beam bolts to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
# Install the clutch hose joint and clutch slave cylinder to the trans axle housing. Tighten the slave cylinder mounting bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
# Install the speed sensor. Tighten the mounting bolt to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
# Install the shift cable and select cable to the shift arm lever and to the select lever respectively. Tighten the cable bracket mounting bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
# Connect the back-up light switch coupler.
# Install the starter.
# Install the trans axle ground cable.
# Install the front wheel and tire assemblies.
# Fill the trans axle with the proper type and quantity of oil.
# Lower the vehicle.
# Make clutch pedal adjustments.
# If applicable, enable the SRS as described in .
# Install the battery and connect the battery cables.
# Start the vehicle and check the trans axle for smooth operation.
Labor time from a shop is anywhere from 6-10 hours. Any other questions, please let me know.
me 2...
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