Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

INT: Front door window regulator replacement

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    INT: Front door window regulator replacement

    Perhaps one of the most annoying things to do with the CB7 chassis is the front window regulators. Unlike the 94-97 CD chassis there are not really great access holes to the window retaining bolts. In my best opinion this way works best.

    Replacement of window components like any other part of a car is about balance, the same way old people dont mixed with young people at social gatherings, car parts are the same way. If possible find new/decent window guides and rubber.

    1) Remove door panel, this is done by first removing the door handle, screw at bottom corner and screw under plastic tab in door panel. Unpop bottom door pops, then lift the panel and pull outward. Unplug the power component switched if applicable.

    2) Remove the box that resides above the door speaker and the metal armrest bracket then remove plastic.

    3) If your motor still works lower the window until the front window bolt is accessible through the module box hole in the door. This bolt can be loosened with a 1/4" rachet and a 10mm. The back one should now be visible at the rear of the door. Loosen this one as well.

    Note: if your motor is broken the removing all the bolts from the regulator will free everything up allowing you to drop the window to remove the bolts from it.

    4) Slide the window track back or to the left to remove the window from the track, now remove the bolts, then pull window out and dont mix these bolts up with the others from the assembly, the others are to long and will pop the threaded caps out of the window when tightened down.

    5) Now that the window is out of the way remove the 6 10mm bolts holding the regulator in the door frame. The regulator should now colapse and after unplugged can be worked through the bottom hole in the door.

    6) Now is the time for the most important part of this job, the rubber that the window resides in and the guides. If your rubber is crinkled up and smashed at the mirror then the glass is going to bind causing off track issues. If not remove anyways clean, relubricate and reassemble. If you rubber is kinked then source new rubber and follow the above steps.

    7) To reinstall the window regulator line up the four retaining bolts to the regulator, the bolts have the lock washers on them. Install the alignment bolts towards the rear center of the door but donot tighten.

    8) Set your window in the door, first placing it in the rear rubber first then the front, pull the window up to the top assuring its tight in the channels, tape it in place or have someone hold it.

    9) Plug your switch back up so you can raise the regulator back to the position where you removed the window, leave it there.

    10) Evenly work then window down to the regulator till you can get the bolts into the window, remember these are the shortest ones. Once low enough position the rear window bolt through the hole in the track, through the front hole align the front bolt, then once both bolts are though the track slide the track forward or towards the front of the car, your right. Tighten those two bolts down.

    11) Raise the window, push it back till tight at the back of the door, adjustment is a pain. The two bolts midway up the door are for this. Trial and error works best. If your regulator is old and wore from a junkyard with alot of play you may need to elongate the adjustment holes to compensate for the extra slop in your regulator. New ones should not require this step.

    12) Run the window up and down checking for binding and tilting. If the window tilts in the guides it will come out of track. This can be resolved by drilling the window guide bolt holes. Bringing the guide closer to the inside of the door and holding the window from tilting and falling out of the front track, which was my problem.

    13) If you window isnt cooperating, perhaps this route will work, instead of tightening the regulator bolts first, pull the adjustment track down as far as possible, tighten those bolts. Plug you switch up, and rotate the motor till its holes again line up with the pattern in the door frame. This method will tend to give the window more rearward tilt by keeping pressure on the rear of the door.

    Our window hadnt been used for 2 years, so I had a job doing this, i used the second method for the regulator, then drilled the door to reposition the bottom guides, plus didnt have new window rubber and had to work the kink out of the corner by the side mirror. If anyone else has so info please kick in on this. I searched and looked and after finding only 6 threads pertaining to this opted for this thread.

    Again, if new guides, rubber and regulator are used then alignment should be very straight forward and easy. I still plan to replace it all once i can get a new regulator. Our local pull a part had only one piece of glass and regulator on the yard so I got what i could. Must be a real common issue with the front drivers window having problems on these cars. Sorry for lack of pics but im not much of a photographer
    Last edited by IBCNYA; 04-07-2012, 04:16 PM.

    #2
    yes, common issue since its the most frequently used window. mine is dead so thanks for the post man

    Originally posted by kc8enb07
    does it come w/ jdm trash? they better throw away gold in it

    Comment


      #3
      Great write up.

      The job itself is actually very very easy to do. It's just frustrating due to the poor access, and the hardest part is bolting the glass back onto the regulator without having it tip forward and falling off.

      Once you get the glass bolted back on, it's a piece of cake job.

      I'm surprised nobody did a DIY on this sooner.

      Comment


        #4
        Back in 'O4 I bought my wagon and one of the windows F'd up. I belonged to no car sites so I had no clue what to do. Sprayed the crap out of it thinking dirt was in channel from old owner and my tint started to slide. Still the window went up and stopped an inch from closing. So I got a shop to tell me $200 to fix it! Hell no! I joined here and AWC. Since then, I have done all 4 and one coupe...and can you beleive it, I did a Pontiac too? It has similar removal.
        A few tips:
        100% have a partner...to hold window and other things you will discover you'll need an extra hand for.
        IBCNYA is right..don't get half ass parts from anyone. Buy new or see it work before you get it.
        A bright light is very helpful.Even in bright daylight, you will need it.
        White out- to mark exactly where those window to regulator bolts were before ( I strongly repeat.. BEFORE!) you remove them.make a circle around it. Don't worry ..nobody see it.
        You'll see this white clip ↓...don't pop it out! That long rod from lock comes out of it. Do not take the rod out until you're 100% sure you know how it comes off. It is very simple but at least three friends of mine have broken it by bending or pulling on it before figuring it just detaches out. Use a needle nose to move the white clip off and then lift the rod out of hole.
        White Clip ↓

        Last ...go slow..do not over tighten anything especially the ones that hold the window to the regulator. Good luck and I will look for a diy.
        Last edited by SilverShadow; 04-08-2012, 03:16 AM.

        Old wagon - Silver '92 LX Wagon - Steve (Shadow)- STOLEN ON LABOR DAY 2012
        New wagon- White '92 LX Wagon on 1/3/13 (Frostbite)



        2000 EX Coupe - Joe -


        www.AccordWagonClub.com
        My Facebook Site - ACCORDOBSESSION

        Comment


          #5
          Found this on Youtube...Thought I'd share

          http://youtu.be/12cCem0x_Jk

          Comment


            #6
            no pics ? still im gonna have to follow this. very detailed
            10th Anniversary Accord.
            05 Audi A4 Ultra Sport 6MT.

            Comment


              #7
              anyone know if you need to replace the motor, along with the regulator? when buying the parts, there is an option to either get the regulator with or without the motor.

              my motor is working, but buzzes (or grinds) when the window stops moving on the way up. is this still a regulator problem, or a regulator AND motor problem?
              1cor10:31
              - 92 LX coupe
              - 96 EX wagon (sold)

              Comment


                #8
                Buy them as one piece. Unless you know how to separate them ( I don't) and it will be better knowing they are from each other.

                Old wagon - Silver '92 LX Wagon - Steve (Shadow)- STOLEN ON LABOR DAY 2012
                New wagon- White '92 LX Wagon on 1/3/13 (Frostbite)



                2000 EX Coupe - Joe -


                www.AccordWagonClub.com
                My Facebook Site - ACCORDOBSESSION

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by timmy0tool View Post
                  anyone know if you need to replace the motor, along with the regulator? when buying the parts, there is an option to either get the regulator with or without the motor.

                  my motor is working, but buzzes (or grinds) when the window stops moving on the way up. is this still a regulator problem, or a regulator AND motor problem?
                  It's best and easiest to replace them as a whole unit.
                  1993 Accord LX Coupe 5spd

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Didn't I just say that in my post?

                    Old wagon - Silver '92 LX Wagon - Steve (Shadow)- STOLEN ON LABOR DAY 2012
                    New wagon- White '92 LX Wagon on 1/3/13 (Frostbite)



                    2000 EX Coupe - Joe -


                    www.AccordWagonClub.com
                    My Facebook Site - ACCORDOBSESSION

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by timmy0tool View Post
                      anyone know if you need to replace the motor, along with the regulator? when buying the parts, there is an option to either get the regulator with or without the motor.

                      my motor is working, but buzzes (or grinds) when the window stops moving on the way up. is this still a regulator problem, or a regulator AND motor problem?
                      This is a window run channel problem. My motor still worked perfectly but windows refused to move. Follow the instructions as stated above up until you completely remove the window. Then, with window removed, remove the run channel (the rubber) carefully if its still in great condition. When I did mine, there was a lot of built up dirt and grime. I washed it out with a used toothbrush until clean. Then lubricate the entire run channel with silicone lubricant spray. Then reinsert the run channel into its grooves, and carefully slide the glass back into the channel. Be careful not to drop the glass now that the channels are lubed and slides easily. Bolt the glass to the regulator and re-assemble everything in reverse order...

                      "There are only two types of people in this world... Those who run & win, and those who sit at the sidelines & watch the winners pass them by."

                      My YouTube Channel! - There's more videos here!
                      Check 'em out, hit LIKE, or even better, stay updated with more vids when you SUBSCRIBE, including vids of my JDM H23A swap!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        thanks for the heads up guys. i replaced the whole regulator with motor as a whole unit at once. it really wasn't that bad, you just need to go in there and do it!

                        sucks though i wasn't able to lube the channels since i was rushed by the owner, but the window now works great (minus the window going off track at the top, probably still a run channel problem).
                        1cor10:31
                        - 92 LX coupe
                        - 96 EX wagon (sold)

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X