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INT: Apexi SAFC 2 install

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    INT: Apexi SAFC 2 install

    Disclaimer ****Do this at your own risk, I am in no way responsible for damage done to you or your car, this is just showing you how it can be done.*********

    Please read through this to get an idea of the procedures so you do not mess this install up...could be costly if you do. Also visit http://www.apexi-usa.com/documentation.asp to download the manuals and for pictures of the connections if this diy is not enough or difficult to understand




    S-AFC2 manual - http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocu...-AFC2Final.pdf
    Wiring manual - http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocu..._safc_wire.pdf]

    Our ecu code is World H2-a


    Parts list:

    - SAFC
    - Wire harness that has long enough wires to run the unit where ever you want
    - 10mm Deep Socket
    - Wrench
    - Wire strippers and cutters
    - 2 Female disconnects
    - 2 Male disconnects
    - Electrical tape or heat shrink
    - heat gun if heat shrink is used
    - Crimp tool such as the wire stripper or needle nose pliers
    - hobby knife
    - wire loom or zip ties (optional)

    Depending on how you want to connect all the wires together the rest of the parts list will vary. For the most secure connection you should solder the wires together. You can also use crimp connectors and double up the wires on one side pretty much but this involves cutting ever wire to make the connection. Or you can just strip some of the insulation of the wires from the ecu and twist the safc wires into them and use electrical type to wrap the connection

    Soldering:
    - Solder Iron $15
    - Flux or Solder paste $3
    - Solder wire - $4
    - Perfect connection
    ...priceless

    And b4 anyone starts saying they don't know how to solder trust me its easy...this was my VERY first time soldering and i did it on an important install like this. I'll try to do a diy on "how to solder also" a little later.

    Crimp connectors:
    Just use about 6 wire crimp connectors

    This install is for cb7's with the f22a1,a4, or a6 motors and also for the f22b motor. Please remember to take your time because you are messing with your ecu and you don't want anything to go wrong with it. The reason i didn't use crimp connectors was because we're working in a limited amount of space and the wires are not long so if you have to take the SAFC off you'll be losing some of the ecu's wire length which may get tricky later on to connect everything back securely and perfectly.

    Pre-installation:
    Lenghten the wires for the safc's harness and code them. Code them by writting down which wire goes where for the install (wire color, ecu pin, wire color on the ecu's harness, etc.). Connect a male disconnect on the end of the white wire for the safc's harness and a female disconnect for the yellow wire





    Installation:
    First and foremost disconnect your negative battery terminal and also touch a piece of grounded metal before touching the ecu. I'll skip the lifting of the carpet to expose the ecu part and start with the ecu disconnected from the kick plate.



    Use the hobby knife to expose the wires and cut the wire loom and electrical tape. And use wire strippers or the hobby knife to cut away at the ecu's wire insulation but make sure to be gentle and try not to damage wires that do not need to be cut.

    The wiring setup should be as follows going from the safc's wire harness to the ecu's wires

    SAFC Wire Color ECU

    Red - Power Pin A25 Yellow w/ black stripe
    Green - Engine RPM Pin A21 Yellow w/ green stripe
    Brown - Ground (wire closest to the ecu!) Pin A26 Black w/ red stripe
    Black - Ground (wire furthest from ecu!) Pin A26 Black w/ red stripe
    Gray - Throttle signal Pin D11 Red w/ black stripe
    White - Air Flow Input Pin D17 White w/ blue stripe
    Yellow - Air Flow Output Pin D17 White w/ blue stripe

    All of the wires except the Air flow wires can be done by just connecting the ecu's wire and the safc's wire together but the air flow wires must be wired as thus:
    Cut the white w/ blue stripe wire and connect a female disconnect to the wire that is not connected to the plug. Next connect a male disconnect onto the white w/blue stripe wire that is connected to the ecu's plug. Because we cut this wire it has to have a way to connect easily if the safc is ever removed...this is why we are using disconnects.

    Since the white and yellow wire already have their disconnects attached, attach the white (input) wire to the female disconnect on the ecu's wiring and the yellow (output) wire to the male disconnect.
    Connect your S-afc harness to the S-afc
    Reconnect your negative battery terminal and turn the car on but don't crank the ignition yet. Just make sure the unit comes on. Start the engine if everything seems normal.

    finished product...use wire loom or zip ties to make the wires look nice and neat

    Last edited by MRX; 05-17-2004, 09:00 PM.
    Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

    FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

    #2
    Nice bro i think i might get it im also lookign into the greddy e manage THNAKS
    To have loved and lost is better than to have never loved at all #CB7Life

    Comment


      #3
      When i first turned the car on i got a CEL and the engine was idle low but smoother than normal (500 rpm or so) and upon stomping the gas the engine would sputter and sometimes die. But when i was able to hold 1200 rpm or so and go WOT i was getting so much torque my belts start to squeal and rpm's shot up like i had a lightened flywheel lol. I took the unit off and reconnected the wires for pin D17 back to eachother. The wire harness is still connected but the ecu won't know its there until the safc is connected again. I have to read through the settings and manual to get this up and running properly for the long trip to the dyno after the turbo is on
      Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

      FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

      Comment


        #4
        here you go hehe



        http://www.geocities.com/thermalfid16/VAFChack1.html


        enjoy.


        Praise The Lowered...

        Comment


          #5
          Any pics as to where you actually located the unit?
          Honda-Tech Username: Lostcb7
          The cb7tuner.com OG.

          Comment


            #6
            haven't decided where to place the unit, i don't want to mount it in dash because i want to be able to bring the car back to stock at any point in time if i need to sell things. I think i'll just make a bracket to hang the unit like a radar detector. And then build a small shield to keep the sun from frying it
            Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

            FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

            Comment


              #7
              thank midnight sure this will help alot of people out...


              Dynamic racing

              Look out for 4 point cb7 strut bars for dohc!!!

              Originally posted by deevergote
              bleh... i just put like 5 ounces of vodka in a 12 oz cup of mango iced tea...

              Comment


                #8
                I hate that Damn SAFC. Midnite, you know all about that.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Got rid of it before i even tried it
                  Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

                  FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

                  Comment


                    #10
                    damn i wish i coukd have bought it form you i need one for my alll nitrous build


                    unless you would chip a p06 with uber for nitrous for me



                    pleaseeeeeeeeeee

                    pretty please?


                    with sprinkled weed on top?


                    Dynamic racing

                    Look out for 4 point cb7 strut bars for dohc!!!

                    Originally posted by deevergote
                    bleh... i just put like 5 ounces of vodka in a 12 oz cup of mango iced tea...

                    Comment


                      #11
                      i was just reading my scematics in the chilton manual and it says d17 is map sensor not air flow, and it says d14 is o2 so mabe thats why yours wasnt working?
                      www.2camcrew.com

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by jdmkid
                        i was just reading my scematics in the chilton manual and it says d17 is map sensor not air flow, and it says d14 is o2 so mabe thats why yours wasnt working?
                        air flow is the map sensor but ur probably right about the d14 being the 02. I didn't have enough time with it to find out. I'll look into it tho
                        Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

                        FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

                        Comment


                          #13
                          ok cool ya i was gonna use the d17 as my air/fuel gauge on my apex turbo timer thats why i got confused when i found out o2 but thanks for clarifying
                          www.2camcrew.com

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Why did you hate the safc so much? Please let me know cuz I want one but not if it blew your motor or some shit like that.
                            No longer working on the cb. To much time and money has been put into it. Check my for sale thread where the whole car will be parted out.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Great writeup



                              I have a SAFC gen I in my Lude. Prelude that is, not Acclude

                              It's just a piggy back, not a real standalone ECU. You really need a wideband o2 sensor to successfully tune it and also a dyno to prove what you are doing.

                              You have to be careful, one mistake and you can blow up your motor...having wrong MAP values is not a pretty site

                              Other than that, it's a pretty thing, vaccuum flourescent display, rev and throttle displays...it's a good way to "bling" your interior if you're not serious enough on buying a wideband.

                              Great write up again

                              *And, dont just crimp the ECU harness wires together...listen to the thread starter and solder them. A short anywhere around the ECU harness wires = BYE BYE ACCORD...

                              1990 Accord Lx F22a1(Daily) SOLD - will be missed
                              1990 Prelude Si B21a1 (Fun car!)

                              Comment

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