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INT: Custom Wiring

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    INT: Custom Wiring

    This article was written by me about 3 years ago. There may be mistakes and flaws, but it should get the creative juices flowing


    A little disclaimer on this one: Do electrical modifications at your own risk! I recommend at least understanding what you're doing before even tapping into the first wire!!! Electrical modifications can cause car fires if not done properly!!! I have looked at these diagrams and tried my best to verify that they are exactly what I did, but there is no guarantee that they are 100% accurate!!! Again, use these diagrams at your own risk and if you do not understand them or do not understand your cars wiring, don't use them!!! It is YOUR car that could suffer if anything goes wrong!!! I have many years of professional experience installing/customizing/troubleshooting cars and electrical devices such as alarms/sensors/stereos/wiring, but I am not an electrician or electrical specialist!!! There are other (and sometimes better) ways to achieve similar results and it is up to you to find them!!!


    I work on a lot of cars (both import and domestic) so I get exposed to a lot of differences among them. When it comes to wiring, I admire the excellent electrical systems Honda equipped the Accords with, but feel it can be improved upon. There is one feature I wanted that was not put into our cars. Normally, when you pull the keys from the ignition switch, everything powers off (except for power windows), right? Well, wouldn’t it be nice if when you pulled the keys out of the ignition, the radio, cigarette lighter, sunroof, and clock (and other electrical items) stayed on (or, had power) until a door is opened? Once the door’s opened, everything powers off and stays off until the next time the key is put into the ignition switch and turned on. Many newer vehicles have this feature which eliminates the need for an “Accessory” position on the ignition switch. The main reason I wanted it this way was because I hated the fact that if I forgot to close the sunroof, I had to put the keys back in the ignition and turn it on just to close the sunroof…..or if I wanted to light a smoke, again, put the keys in the ignition and turn it on so the lighter will work…same with the radio, clock, and so on. Not to mention, wear and tear on the fuel pump, main relay, ECU, sensors, and other electronic parts for getting zapped with quick bursts of power more often than they should. I no longer have a radio or clock in my car so that’s a few less things I have wired up, but I’m gonna show you how to do it for those that want to. I’ve been complaining about it for more than 3 years now, had a bunch of SPDT relays, semiconductors laying around, and some free time so I finally did it. Here is my write up of how to make it work on our Accords along with some ideas of additional things you can do. If you don’t have the stuff laying around like I did, you might have to spend $35 or so on parts. This would easily be an expensive custom wiring job if you paid someone to do it and that’s assuming you can find a reliable shop that’s willing to mess with your ignition system and electrical system and offer a warranty on their work, so $35 doesn’t sound too bad now huh? Previous electrical experience is highly recommended to do any of these wiring changes but I tried my best to write this in a manner that even the most electrically retarded person around can do this without any problems. Good luck and fill me in if you guys do anything crazy with this stuff!



    This article is broken down into three main parts. Part1 is the tech write up of what I actually did to my car and everything you need to know to do the same to your car. Part2 is nothing but ideas and variations of what I did, so that you guys can customize it to your needs. And Part3 covers some slightly more advanced custom wiring crap that I’ve done to my car that was all designed and built off of the basics in Part1 & Part2.


    This write up was done using a 93 Accord EX. These same procedures will also work on basically every Honda/Acura, and any vehicle with a +12V electrical system and a normally open, negative polarity door trigger. If being done on another vehicle besides an Accord, please reference the wiring diagrams for your vehicle for wire locations, colors, and polarities. Slight variations to these procedures will also work on vehicles with positive polarity door triggers and other types of electrical systems but I’ll leave that up to you to figure out. The procedures, as they are written, will work flawlessly on all Honda Accords (provided there are no installation issues). Even still, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANYTHING YOU DO TO YOUR CAR! DO NOT TRY THIS IF YOU DO NOT FEEL COMFORTABLE DOING IT! PERFORM THIS INSTALL AT YOUR OWN RISK! YOU MAY CAUSE A CAR FIRE IF YOU ARE NOT CAREFUL!!! Please read this entire article before doing anything and most importantly, use some common sense and ask questions if you're unsure of anything!


    PART1 - Installation and general concepts

    Parts Needed - estimated cost:
    six-pack of your favorite beer - $6
    2 SPDT relays - $10
    9 terminal connectors - $3
    1 ground spade - $0.50
    about 35 feet of 16awg braided wire (length varies according to model, year, and accessories you wire up) - $10
    about 2 feet of 12awg or 14awg braided wire (size varies according to amount of accessories wired up) - $2
    1 in line fuse connection - $3
    1 fuse 10amp-30amp (varies according to amount of accessories wired up) - $0.25
    4 diodes (just about any diode will work) *6 diodes are needed on vehicles with alarm/keyless entry* - $1.50
    about 5 feet of wire loom (maybe more)- $2
    electrical tape - $2
    zip ties - $2

    Tools Needed:
    soldering gun/iron
    wire cutters/splicers
    terminal crimpers
    60/40 rosin core solder
    multimeter or test light
    philips head screwdriver
    flat head screwdriver
    10mm socket
    ratchet
    various length socket extensions
    10mm wrench

    Just a little tip….Radio Shack will be your best friend if you decide to do this. They should have just about everything in-stock that you need for this project including the tools. The only downside to Radio Shack is that they are a little pricey, so if you feel like spending the time, you should be able to get most or all of this stuff online at discounted rates. If you’re like me, then you had all this crap laying around already so it basically cost nothing. If you know an electrician or electronics nut, give them a call and see what stuff they got laying around. They might have everything you need, be able to help with the install, and be willing to work for beer.


    Step 1. Wire up the relays together. Don’t worry about the connections to the actual cars wiring yet, just make the connections to the relays and leave the wires extra long so that you have plenty to work with when it comes time to install it into the car. Use the 9 terminal connectors to attach the wires to the relay pins. I suggest doing it one pin at a time. As for the diodes that connect to pin 86 on relay #1, for our purposes, just about any diode will work. Try not to use diodes that are incredibly small in size or specialty diodes such as zener diodes. Otherwise, pretty much any diode will work. They are usually black with a silver stripe at one end. The end with the silver stripe is the end that needs to be connected to the relay. Hope that’s clear enough for you and make sure you wire them correctly or this will not work. Below is a diagram of how they should be wired together:

    DIAG1



    And this next one is the same pic as above except the wires are numbered. The chart following it lists the length and size of each numbered wire from the pic. Hope that makes sense to you?!?!?

    DAIG2


    Rough size and length estimates for each numbered wire are as follows:
    1. 16awg - 3 ft.
    2. 14 or 12awg - 2 ft.
    3. 16awg - 2 in.
    4. 14 or 12awg - 2 in.
    5. 16awg - 2 in.
    6. 16awg - 3 ft.
    7. individual 16awg wires per accessory that you want to function. About 5 ft. of wire per acc. *note- cars with alarm/keyless entry need to add 1 extra wire to this pin*
    8. 16awg - 4 ft.

    Keep in mind that the wire lengths specified above were based on the 4th gen EX Accord so other models and years may have slight variations in length. Plus how you run the wires also affects the length needed. It is better to have too long of a wire that you can simply trim as needed than too short of a wire that you have to add on to, so slightly over-estimate the lengths you need. Even if it is too short, just add more wire to the end. It’ll still work, it just takes longer to install and leaves more probability of shorts happening down the road. Make sure you don’t forget to include the fuse and diodes when wiring the relays up. Also please don’t forget to add the extra wire to pin 30 on relay #2 for you people with alarms. You’ll see why in PART2. Also, you may want to add another additional wire or two to pin 30 on relay #2 if you want to do any fancy stuff like what’s mentioned in PART2 of this article. Once all the connections to the relays are done, wrap the relays side by side with electrical tape. DO NOT tape up the actual connections you made to the relays or the wires yet cause you still need to see them to make sure you’re running the right wire to the right thing.
    Last edited by ACCLUDE91; 10-15-2007, 08:43 AM.

    My Accord History:
    91 EX 2dr : 91 EX 2dr : 91 LX 4dr : 93 EX 2dr : 86 LXi 2dr : 92 LX 4dr : 92 EX 4dr

    -Patrick

    #2
    This is basically what it should look like when you’re done:






    Step 2. Relays are wired, so time to get access to the car wiring. Drop the knee plate below the steering column and the metal reinforcement beam behind the panel using the 10mm. Remove the fuse box kick panel (requires you to remove the door sil panel first). The following steps are only necessary for any accessories you want to stay powered after the key is removed. Remove the driver side door paneling to get access to the power window control unit. Remove the dash clock. Remove the radio (have your radio code handy if you have an anti-theft radio). Remove the power sunroof switch. Remove any other panels needed to gain access to the accessories you want wired up. Again, this is based on the 4th gen so other generations may be slightly different. If you have any questions of how to remove any panels in your car, consult with a Haynes or Chiltons manual.

    Step 3.Time to find the wires in the car that you need to attach to and test them before making any connections. First, zip tie or mount the two relays securely somewhere under the dash, behind the radio, or behind the glovebox. You probably want to have them right at the steering column because the wire lengths listed above are based on steering column placement. If you do crazy stuff like what I did, then you may want it mounted behind the radio or glovebox or somewhere else. Basically you want to mount it in a spot that requires you to run the shortest overall wire length to all the wires you plan to grab. For basics, I’d suggest mounting it right at the steering column.

    Once that’s done, you basically just want to find the wire, test it with the multimeter or test light, make the connection and move on to the next one. As you make the connections, keep in mind the wire length and routing. Run the wires coming from the relay neatly and cut them to an appropriate length before soldering them to the car wiring. Be sure not to run them near any moving parts like pedals, steering column, shift cables, etc. Cover the wires with black electrical tape or loom and then zip tie them in place as you run them. There are a total of 4 mandatory connections needed for it to work and below is a list of those wires per vehicle, their colors, what they should read, and where they’re located. These should be the first 4 connections you make. Be sure to test out (locate) each wire you need before making any connections. If you feel uncomfortable messing with live wires or are inexperienced in electrical work, I suggest disconnecting the neg. terminal from the battery before splicing into wires and making any connections. You do need the battery connected to test for voltage (duh!), but you can still test for ground even with the battery disconnected. If it makes you feel more comfortable, test for a wire, disconnect the battery and make the connection, reconnect the battery and test for the next one, disconnect the battery and make the connection, and so on.

    Use DAIG1 in this article to determine the appropriate connections with the list below. It should be the thick wire at pin 30 on relay 1 goes to the +12V Batt wire, pin 85 on relay 1 goes to Ground, pin 86 on relay 1 goes to Ign. Switch with a diode in the middle, and pin 86 on relay 2 goes to the Door Trig. Make sure you have the silver stripe on the diode facing the right way or it will not work right.

    1st gen.:
    I have no idea, send me some wiring diagrams and I’ll update this.

    2nd gen:
    +12V Batt. - white, white/black - in ignition harness or at fuse box - reads +12V at all times *
    Ign. Switch - black/yellow - in ignition harness or at fuse box - reads +12V with keys in ignition and turned to “On” position
    Door Trig. - black/white - above fuse box in a 2 wire harness wrapped in vinyl tubing behind coin tray - reads ground when door is opened **
    Ground - use ground spade at frame or use a known good ground - reads ground at all times

    3rd gen:
    +12V Batt. - white, white/black - in ignition harness or at fuse box - - reads +12V at all times *
    Ign. Switch - black/yellow - in ignition harness or at fuse box - reads +12V with keys in ignition and turned to “On” position
    Door Trig. - black/white - above fuse box in a 2 wire harness wrapped in vinyl tubing behind coin tray - reads ground when door is opened **
    Ground - use ground spade at frame or use a known good ground - reads ground at all times

    4th gen:
    +12V Batt. - white - in ignition harness - reads +12V at all times *
    Ign. Switch - black/yellow - in ignition harness - reads +12V with keys in ignition and turned to “On” position
    Door Trig. - black/white - in a brown plug to the left of steering column - reads ground when door is opened **
    Ground - use ground spade at frame or use a known good ground - reads ground at all times

    5th gen:
    +12V Batt. - white - in ignition harness - reads +12V at all times *
    Ign. Switch - black/yellow - in ignition harness - reads +12V with keys in ignition and turned to “On” position
    Door Trig. - black/white - in a grey plug to the right of steering column - reads ground when door is opened **
    Ground - use ground spade at frame or use a known good ground - reads ground at all times

    6th gen:
    +12V Batt. - white - in ignition harness - reads +12V at all times *
    Ign. Switch - black/yellow - in ignition harness - reads +12V with keys in ignition and turned to “On” position
    Door Trig. - black/white - pass. side fuse box. In a green 4 pin connector - reads ground when door is opened **
    Ground - use ground spade at frame or use a known good ground - reads ground at all times

    7th gen:
    +12V Batt. - white - in ignition harness - reads +12V at all times *
    Ign. Switch - black/yellow - in ignition harness - reads +12V with keys in ignition and turned to “On” position
    Door Trig. - green/red - in a green 5 pin plug behind fuse box - reads ground when door is opened **
    Ground - use ground spade at frame or use a known good ground - reads ground at all times
    Last edited by ACCLUDE91; 10-12-2007, 01:01 AM.

    My Accord History:
    91 EX 2dr : 91 EX 2dr : 91 LX 4dr : 93 EX 2dr : 86 LXi 2dr : 92 LX 4dr : 92 EX 4dr

    -Patrick

    Comment


      #3
      *DO NOT EXCEED THE AMPERAGE RATING OF THE IGNITION HARNESS WIRE AND/OR RELAYS. RUN A NEW WIRE FROM THE FUSEBOX AND USE ADDITIONAL RELAYS AS NEEDED. For my setup, I wired up some electrical items that suck a decent amount of current (such as the radiator & condenser fans –about 10-15amps each- *covered in Part3) so I choose to create a separate fused +12V Batt. connection at the underhood fusebox instead of grabbing it at the white wire in the ignition harness. I also have a second relay used to power additional accessories since each relay is only rated at 30/40Amps and my devices suck about 40/50Amps when all devices are active. Make sure you do not exceed the amperage rating of the relays you are using. I don’t know about you, but I’d prefer not to have any electrical fires. So if you wire up a lot of accessories, then chances are that you need to make a new +12V Batt. connection at the fusebox and use a separate relay to isolate the accessories current draw like I did. The new relay is wired exactly the same as relay #2 from above and the pic below shows that. If you are only wiring up the radio, cig. Lighter, clock or other low current accessories then you are fine grabbing the +12V Batt. wire in the ignition harness and not using a separate relay like shown below.

      **DO NOT TAP INTO THE DOOR TRIGGER WIRE. YOU MUST CUT IT BEFORE TESTING AND USE DIODES WHEN YOU MAKE A CONNECTION. To properly find, test, and make a connection to the door trigger wire, you need to cut the wire. Once you have it separated into two ends, test for continuity with ground. The end we need to connect to should read continuity with ground when the door is opened and should not read ground or voltage when the door is closed. The other end of the wire will read voltage basically at all times and you DO NOT want to tap into that end of the wire. To make a connection, you need to isolate the new connection with the use of diodes. This is pretty straightforward and DIAG3 below shows how they need to be connected. The silver stripe end of the diodes need to connect to the door trigger wire (that goes to the pin switches) and the solid black ends need to connect to the wires going to it.


      With all the main wires located, tested, and connected, the only wires left are the ones going to the accessories. * **

      *A very important note is that in order to have ONLY that accessory stay powered and not ALL accessories in the same circuit, you must isolate the power you feed the device from the wire normally used to feed power to the device. To try to make that a little clearer, look at DIAG3 that shows how things must be connected to power ONLY that specific device in that circuit. It is basically the same as using the diodes for the door trigger as described above.

      DIAG3



      **If you want ALL devices in a circuit to remain powered (like in the heat/ A/C system, or clock/radio), the use of diodes shown in the diag. above is NOT needed. Just tap straight into the wire and everything in that circuit will remain powered. If you are not sure which circuits have which devices on them, refer to a Haynes or Chilton’s manual. It also helps to simply look at the fuse box and see which devices share fuses. And of course there’s always the time consuming and painstaking, trial-n-error method.

      I choose to wire up the cig. lighter, sunroof and some custom switches (shown later in PART3). My interior is gutted and I no longer have a radio or a clock. If I did, I would wire those up as well.


      Again, test each wire before making any connections. Try to hide your wires and keep them nice and neat. Once this step is complete, it’s time to test and make sure it works correctly. Double check your work for obvious errors like exposed wires or blown fuses first. Then take a deep breath….put the keys into the ignition and turn it to the “On” position just before starting the motor (re-connect the battery cable if it was disconnected in earlier steps). Everything should work just as it normally has. Take another deep breath and cross your fingers, and then turn the key back to “Off” and pull it out of the ignition. Your radio or whatever you wired up should still remain on for however long you remain inside the car. Now, open a door. Everything you wired up should power off and remain off even after you close the door. It’s done this way so that you do not slowly drain the battery while the car sits. If everything is good, proceed to the next step. If it doesn’t work right, double check all your connections and make sure it is wired right. If you have issues and can’t figure it out, you can post here, PM or email me and I’ll try to help you out.

      Step 4.Since everything works like it’s supposed to, time to put the car back together. Finalize all your connections by making them nice and neat. Use the wire loom to cover what you can. If you can, spend the time to try to make it look like it’s factory wiring. The cleaner it looks, the better. Then just simply reverse the process followed in Step 2 to re-assemble the car.


      __________________________________________________ _______________
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Last edited by ACCLUDE91; 10-12-2007, 01:02 AM.

      My Accord History:
      91 EX 2dr : 91 EX 2dr : 91 LX 4dr : 93 EX 2dr : 86 LXi 2dr : 92 LX 4dr : 92 EX 4dr

      -Patrick

      Comment


        #4
        PART2 - Ideas & Diagrams


        Everything done in PART1 is the basis for the following ideas and diagrams for the rest of this article. The first 2 relays in each diagram are wired almost exactly the same as in DIAG1 with only a few subtle changes. If you are able to do what was written in PART1 then you should have no problem with any of these examples. Relays are a beautiful thing. Plain and simple, alls they are is a basic switch. Instead of manually flipping a switch to make a connection (or disconnect one), they work off of voltage to “flip the switch”. Diodes also come in vary handy. They basically act like a check valve for electricity. They allow electricity flow through it in one direction, but not the other. I haven’t covered it up to this point, but resistors are also another valuable electrical item to have. They do exactly what they say, they resist electrical flow. Every electrical item (including the wires and terminal connections) has it’s own resistance. Resistors allow you to manipulate that resistance. Potentiometers are another usefull item. They are basically resistors that change resistance as a knob is manually turned (like the volume knob on your stereo). You can do all kinds of cool things with resistors and potentiometers such as change the blinking rate of your turn signal and corner lights (as fast as strobes or as slow as you want), or remove a sensor/device and plug a resistor of the same resistance value in place of it to “simulate” that the sensor/device is still plugged in, and all kinds of other cool things. I’ve found that when it comes to the electrical system in cars, most people are clueless or too scared to mess with it. I encourage you to play around with it, but only after you have a basic understanding of what you’re doing. You can manipulate your cars wiring to do just about anything you want with the right connections. I don’t know everything and couldn’t cover it with this write up anyways, but here’s a few examples of how to manipulate your cars wiring to do what you want it to.


        1.
        *IMPORTANT NOTICE - Alarm/Keyless entry issues*
        For those of you who have either factory or aftermarket keyless entry/alarm systems, please note this change in installation procedures in PART1. The +12V switched wire of your alarm/keyless entry unit needs to be tapped into and isolated using diodes and wired up to pin 30 on relay #2 like all of the other accessories being wired up. This is the same method used to isolate the door trigger and the accessories powered in PART1. If you do not do this, you may have to deal with your alarm going off at random times (from voltage drop) or if you have auto-arm enabled, the alarm will auto-arm with you still inside the car. To correct these issues, again, cut the +12V switched wire going to the unit and wire it up with the to the relay with the diodes as show below. Below is a simple diagram showing how to do this properly. If you do not have any wiring diagrams for the alarm/keyless entry system, then you must test each wire at the alarm “brain” one by one with your multimeter or test light until you find the +12V switched wire. Sometimes you get lucky and the alarm brain has all the wires labeled on it. Either way, you must do this for your alarm/keyless entry to still work properly. They usually use common colors like red for +12V switched.

        DIAG4



        2.
        For slightly more advanced wiring, you may have 3, 4, 5, or more relays. It all depends on what accessories you want to stay powered, when they are powered, and what kind of power they need. That is all completely up to you. I’m just trying to show you how to do it without catching your car on fire! For my car, I choose to wire up the cig. lighter, sunroof, and a bunch of custom switches (explained in PART3) and wired them so that they stay on all the times from when the key goes into the ignition until it is removed from the ignition and the door is opened. For that purpose, I only needed 3 relays as shown in PART1. I also thought about also keeping the heat and A/C controls powered as well, but decided against it because 1. I never use A/C and have removed it from my car entirely, 2. I only use heat for three mos. out of the year, and 3. you really need to have the car on and running for the heat or A/C to work at optimum level anyways so I felt it was pretty pointless to keep them powered…….but you can if you want. You guys might want neon lights, or strobes, or your amps, or dome light, or maybe even your radiator fans, or whatever to stay on. Your imagination is the limit here. So the accessories you want to stay powered, and when, are what you need to focus on at this point. Find the +12V switched wire (reads +12V with key in ign. and on and reads 0V with key out) for each accessory you want connected and that’s what you need to tap into to make it stay powered even after the keys have been removed.

        3
        Another thing to keep in mind is that any device you wire up to pin 30 on relay 2 will get power the whole time, from the second you turn on the key on until the key is removed and door is opened. So, for example, if you wired up your dome light to pin 30 on relay 2, your dome light would come on the second you turned the key on, stay on the whole time you’re driving, and it would stay on until the key was removed and door opened. That’s an undesirable result. But it may be a desired to have the dome light come on whenever the key is removed from the ignition and have it cut off once the door is opened (like a dome light supervision). It can be achieved using 3 relays as shown in DIAG5. Keep in mind the first 2 relays are almost identical to DIAG1 with the exception of pin 87a on relay 1 being connected to the third relay and pin 30 on relay 2 also connecting to the third relay.
        Last edited by ACCLUDE91; 10-12-2007, 01:02 AM.

        My Accord History:
        91 EX 2dr : 91 EX 2dr : 91 LX 4dr : 93 EX 2dr : 86 LXi 2dr : 92 LX 4dr : 92 EX 4dr

        -Patrick

        Comment


          #5
          For all of the following diagrams, there are two pins you can wire up your accessories to. They are labeled “Constant Acc.” and “Switched Acc.” And here are the differences.

          Constant Acc. - pin 30 on relay 2. Supplies +12V at all times from when the key is inserted into the ignition and turned on, until the door is opened. Stops supplying power once the door is opened and remains off until key is inserted into the ignition and turned on again. You’d want to connect a radio, clock, sunroof switch, or something similar that is fine being on while you’re driving.

          Switched Acc. - pin 87 on relay 3. Supplies +12V only after the key has been inserted into the ignition, turned on, and then turned off again. Stops supplying power once the door is opened, and remains off until key is inserted into the ignition, turned on, and turned off again. You’d want to connect the dome light, neon lights, or something similar that is a distraction while driving, but preferred when cutting the car off & when parked.

          DIAG5



          4
          Also, probably more information than you care, or even need to know, but using this method only works on +12V accessories. So if for some ungodly reason you wish to keep an accessory active that uses ground or 5V, do not connect them to pin 30 on relay 2 or pin 87 on relay 3. Instead use a separate relay for that device. To give you an idea how this is done, look at the following diagram.

          DIAG6


          Everything with the light blue background is the exact same thing as DIAG5 and everything with the white background is what is added to allow you to feed power to a device that uses 3V, 5V, ground, or just about any other voltages you need. I used the horn as an example because it was the first thing that popped in my head that uses ground to activate instead of +12V like all the other accessories mentioned up until this point. I don’t recommend that anyone wire their horn up like this just because of the simple fact that it’s annoying as hell, entirely pointless, and will kill your battery if active for an extended period of time. But, at least it gives you the idea of how to incorporate devices such as your horn, sensor wires, and similar devices that operate off of a different voltage than +12V.

          5.
          Headlight cutoff - Something that might actually be useful is to wire your headlights to cut off automatically when the keys are pulled out of the ignition and the door is opened. This will be a life saver if you commonly leave your headlights on by accident. No more dead battery problems. Here’s how to do that. Again everything in blue is exactly the same as DIAG5 and the white background is what you need to add. An important difference to note is that instead of just tapping into the headlight wiring, you actually cut it and wire one end to pin 30 on relay4 and the other one to pin 87 on relay4. That way it only allows voltage to go to the lights after the key is put into the ignition and turned on. The lights are able to get voltage at any point in time until the key is removed and door is opened. Once the door is opened, no power is allowed to go to the lights again until the key is put back into the ignition and turned on (even with the headlight switch still on). This example is very useful. I did this one on my car as well. I always have my headlights on when I’m driving and it’s nice to just leave them on all the time and never have to touch the switch to turn them off.

          DIAG7


          In the above diagram, for pins 87 and 30 on relay4, you can find the headlight wire in the chart below. Keep in mind that for most generations, this wire I’ve listed is neg. polarity which means you don’t want to feed voltage to it or you will burn something up or blow a fuse. Follow DIAG7 and you should be fine, but if you don’t feel comfortable tapping into the neg. polarity wire, instead you can use two relays (second wired exactly the same as relay4) and just grab the wires at each headlight (one relay per light). You may also need to do this for both the low beams and high beams.

          1st gen.:
          I have no idea, send me some wiring diagrams and I’ll update this.

          2nd gen:
          Red/White - located at the light switch - pos. polarity

          3rd gen:
          Red/White - located at the light switch - pos. polarity

          4th gen:
          Blue/Red or Blue - located in the steering column harness - neg. polarity

          5th gen:
          Blue - located in blue plug to the left of the steering column - neg. polarity

          6th gen:
          Blue/Red - located in steering column wiring - neg. polarity

          7th gen:
          Black/Red or Blue/Red- located in steering column cover - neg. polarity


          6.
          Window / sunroof options - Wire your windows or sunroof to automatically close once you turn the ignition off. Also wire it so that if you use the window switch while it’s auto-closing, it stops the auto close and allows you to control the windows how you wish. Add another variable that keeps them from auto closing such as your parking lights….if the parking lights are on when you cut the car off, the windows won’t autoclose until the lights are turned off. Keep in mind the actual wires for close and open are neg. polarity when the window is active so don’t feed +12V to these wires. Only feed ground to the actual window switch wires. The window motor is what needs the +12V, not the window switches. I may add this feature to mine down the road but have not done it yet and will not go into details. Figure it out for yourself.


          7.
          Here are more random ideas of what you can do with your cars wiring using these methods. I covered just about everything you need to know to do this stuff. If you have any questions, post here, PM or email me and I’ll see what I can do.

          Angel Eye or Halo headlights- wire up your angel eye lights to stay on after you pull the key out of the ignition until you open the door.

          Air-ride or Hydraulic suspension - wire up your air ride to automatically drop the car to the ground either when you turn the ignition off or when you open the door. Or even better, if you have an alarm or keyless entry, wire it so that when you arm the car, it drops to the ground and when you dis-arm it, it raises back up. I’ve personally done this one to a customers car before and it’s a lot easier than you would think.

          Neon Lights or strobe lights - wire up the neons or strobes to come on after you turn the ignition off and stay on until the door is opened. A slight variation of that could include wiring them up to come on once the ignition goes off and to stay on even after the door is opened until the next time you put the keys in the ignition and start the car.

          L.E.D.’s - wire up some custom L.E.D.’s to come on once the key is out of the ignition and to stay on until the door is openend. Or wire them to come on when the ignition is turned off and keep them running the whole time the car sits until the next time you put the key in the ignition and start it. This would be good for Alarm L.E.D.’s or something similar. Why pay $25 for the pre-built fake alarm LED assemblies when you can make your own for a few dollars.

          Power Seat - Keep your power seat active even after the keys have been removed until you open the door.

          Fog Lights- Wire up your fogs to automatically cut off when the door is opened so that you don’t kill your battery for accidentally leaving them on. Or wire them so that they automatically come on when you start the car and automatically go off when you turn the car off and open the door.

          Door lights - wire your door lights or dome light so that they automatically come on once you turn the ignition off and stay on until you open the door and close it.

          CB Radio or Trunk Tracker (police scanner) - wire them to automatically come on when the car starts and to automatically go off once the car is turned off and door is opened.

          As you can see, you are pretty much able to wire your car to do whatever you want. If you’re like me, you’ll think of all kinds of crazy stuff to do with this crap. If anyone out there actually uses this stuff on their own cars, please post back here what you did and how you like it! I’m curious to see what kind of stuff you guys come up with using these methods.

          __________________________________________________ _______________
          -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
          Last edited by ACCLUDE91; 10-12-2007, 01:10 AM.

          My Accord History:
          91 EX 2dr : 91 EX 2dr : 91 LX 4dr : 93 EX 2dr : 86 LXi 2dr : 92 LX 4dr : 92 EX 4dr

          -Patrick

          Comment


            #6
            PART3 – My Additional Custom Wiring – ACCLUDE STYLE

            Ok, hopefully you guys got some ideas or learned something from the previous sections. I usually go overboard when I do something and this wiring job is no different. Here’s the “overly-paranoid & overly-obsessive speed freak” in me coming out.

            Once again, I have no interior. Just a partial dash and gage cluster, driver seat, occasionally a passenger seat, and a steering wheel/pedals/e-brake. Basically everything else has been pulled out. The part of the dash where the radio normally goes is now occupied by a cluster-fuck of switches, buttons, and other crap. I’m going to tell you exactly what all of them are for and how to wire them up. If any of you guys use this stuff, don’t copy it exactly. Make your own changes and customize it to your needs/wants but hopefully it will give you the knowledge (and courage) to try some shit out.



            First of all, here’s all the switches/buttons and what they do:
            1. Primary Fan switch – the cooling system operates normally and water temp usually does not reach more than 200 deg. unless I’m really abusing it. If the cooling system should fail or if temperatures get a little too warm for my comfort, I can manually turn the radiator fan on with this switch.
            2. Secondary Fan switch – On my car, I have removed the coolant temp switch on the front water jacket and installed a water temp gage. I have also remove the A/C system and do not use the condenser fan. Since the front coolant temp switch controls the A/C condenser fan plus I never use A/C, the fan never cuts on. That’s fine, but just in case of overheating, I want to be able to turn the condenser fan on (which is attached to the radiator) to aid in system cooling. I can manually turn the fan on or off with this switch.
            3. Radar Detector Kill switch – just as it says. I have a radar detector hardwired into my car, and this switch allows me to kill it at any time. Mine is a good one with VG2 technology and smart-mute and all that crap, but I feel better knowing I can kill it at any time just in case.
            4. Taillight Kill switch – Ever try outrunning someone (police) at night and wish you had the ability to “disappear”? That’s what this switch does. It kills power to the taillights, reverse lights, turn signals, and license plate lights making me almost impossible to see at a distance at night. Minus the headlights, you can’t see my black-ass car at all at night! And maybe it’s just the redneck in me, but I also use this one if I pass a trucker and get in front of them. They seem to get a kick out of it and usually honk their horns or flash their lights back. I’m not a trucker, but I do know proper trucking etiquette.
            5. Brake Light Kill switch – Similar to the switch above, except this one kills the brake lights from working. Chances are that if I don’t want someone to see my taillights, then I don’t want them to see my brake lights either in which case, both switches get flipped, but just incase I do want the brake lights to work, but not the taillights (street racing), this switch takes care of it.
            6. Fuel Cutoff switch – just as it says. If for any unfortunate reason there is a fire or I need to cut fuel quickly, this switch takes care of that. It kills power to the PGM-FI main relay and therefore cuts power to the fuel pump.
            7. CEL Check switch – remember that write-up I did on the CEL switch? Well, I just added it here. Basically, if the check engine light comes on at any point in time, I simply flip this switch and the CEL will flash the codes. Very simple and very effective.
            8. Master Window Close switch – Ok, the reason behind this one: I was at the track and getting some drag runs in. It was hot as hell (about 110+ inside my car) so I had the windows down as I was pulling up to the staging lanes. My hands and attention got occupied by closing the windows & sunroof as I pulled up to the lane and I rolled right on past the staging line and red lighted. I was going against a slow RS Eclipse and would have stomped him. Instead he won by default and I wasted a run. Alcohol may, or may not have also played a part in the red-lighting incident (drunk draggin’ baby!), but either way, it pissed me off enough to make this change. This master switch closes all the windows and sunroof at the same time by simply flipping the switch. No more distractions, no more occupied hands/attention, and no more red-lighting for stupid ass reasons!
            9. Master kill switch – just as it says. This switch cuts all power to just about everything in/on the car. It does not kill ALL power in the car (my quick disconnect battery cable will), however, it will kill everything electrical inside the car, all exterior lighting, and just about everything under the hood (with the exception of the starter cable and the battery cable going to the underhood fusebox). It basically kills power to 90% of the car .
            10. Ignition switch – I hate keys hitting my knees when I’m driving. I yanked the ignition switch off the damn steering column and relocated it to the dash area here. Keys are now out of my way and that’s a good thing.
            11. Push Button Start switch – Not done yet but will be added shortly. Just as it says, push the button and the engine starts. You must have the key in the ignition and turned to the “ON” position or it doesn’t work. Not that anyone is going to steal my car, but I thought I should still use the key as a security measure. I also have a completely separate hidden master disable switch that must also be activated in order for the key and push-button setup to work. This hidden switch kills power to the ECU, Fuel Injectors and the Coil so a potential thief could sit there all day long listening to the starter crank but the engine will never start. I didn’t cover this hidden switch in this write up for obvious reasons.
            12. Cig. Lighter – even though I stripped the interior, I do prefer to have a cigarette lighter. I’m a heavy smoker and there’s nothing worse than craving a cig and not having anything to light it with. It also comes in handy for +12V accessories like cell phone chargers and shit so I opted to keep it.
            13. Air/Fuel Meter – not installed yet, but going in shortly. These things put on quite the light show so I figured I’d keep it down low and out of sight from law enforcement. I don’t like getting more attention than necessary so this is a good spot for it.
            14. Window Auto-close Disable switch – Integrated with the relay assembly from PART1 of this writeup, I have the windows and sunroof set to automatically close anytime I pull the keys out of the ignition, open the door, and shut the door. That means that when I shut my door and start to walk away from the car, it closes the windows for me. That’s cool and convenient and all, but if the windows aren’t open to begin with (winter time), then there’s no reason to close them automatically right? And if I did try to close an already closed window too many times, or for too long, it will burn out the window motor. This switch takes care of that issue. If the switch is on, then the windows will auto-close as I’ve wired them to do. If the switch is off, the windows will not auto-close. There are many other ways around this issue (such as using pin switches in the door to detect if the window is up or down) but this is how I did it.

            I think the easiest way to cover all of this is to do it for each item individually and then at the end show you how it’s all put together to make it work.
            Last edited by ACCLUDE91; 10-12-2007, 01:04 AM.

            My Accord History:
            91 EX 2dr : 91 EX 2dr : 91 LX 4dr : 93 EX 2dr : 86 LXi 2dr : 92 LX 4dr : 92 EX 4dr

            -Patrick

            Comment


              #7
              1. Pri. Fan sw.
              A single pole, two terminal switch. One wire goes to a fused, switched +12V power source and the other wire goes to the Radiator fan + wire. Use at least 14awg or larger wire (must be able to handle at least 10-15amps). You should wire it this way because it allows you to turn the fan on at any time, for any reason yet still allow the factory cooling system to function normally. You can only turn the fan off if the coolant temp reading is low enough to prevent the factory cooling system from powering the fan. Basically the factory cooling system works as it should. The only difference is that you have the option to turn the fan on whenever you choose. I actually yanked out the factory wiring and electronics for my radiator/condenser fan so I HAVE TO USE this switch to make the fan come on. Good for track time, bad for daily driving time.

              2. Sec. Fan sw.
              A single pole, two terminal switch. One wire goes to a fused, switched +12V power source and the other wire goes to the Condenser fan + wire. Use at least 14awg or larger wire (must be able to handle at least 10-15amps). Wiring it this way allows you to turn the fan on at any time, for any reason. You can only turn the fan off if the coolant temp reading is low enough to prevent the factory cooling system from powering the fan. Also, if you have A/C still operational in your car, then the condenser fan may also come on anytime the A/C is on. Basically the factory cooling system and A/C system work as they should. The only difference is that you have the option to turn the fan on whenever you choose. Again, I yanked all that crap out of my car and hardwired this switch so I HAVE TO USE this switch to turn the fan on.

              3. Radar Kill sw.
              A single pole, two terminal switch. One wire goes to a fused, switched +12V power source and the other wire goes to the detectors + wire.

              4. Taillight Kill sw.
              A single pole, two terminal switch. One wire goes to a fused, switched +12V power source and the other wire goes to pin 85 of the tail kill relay. A relay is used to isolate the taillights and turn signal lights, yet still allow you to disable or enable both at the same time.

              5. Brakelight Kill sw.
              A single pole, two terminal switch. Cut the brake switch wire and connect one end of the wire to one switch terminal and the other end of the wire to the other switch terminal. I wired it this way because I have removed the ABS system and Cruise Control system from my car and do not need the brake switch for anything other than brake light activation. If you still have Cruise, ABS, or an auto tranny, then you will want to grab the brake light wire AT THE BRAKE LIGHTS. Otherwise your cruise will not disengage when you hit the brakes, ABS gets confused and can’t perform ABS function normally, and your auto trans may not know when to upshift/downshift appropriately. Keep in mind that if you do grab this at the brake lights, your “Brake Lamp” indicator will come on telling you that your brake lights are not working properly anytime you flip the switch and hit the brake pedal. If you grab the brake switch wire before the Integrated Unit like I did, then it does not sense any brake light error and does not trigger the “Brake Lamp” indicator. Again, if you have ABS, Cruise, or an auto trans, DO NOT tap into the brake switch wires. Tap into the wires AT the brake lights in the back. You’ll just have to deal with the “Brake Lamp” light and that’s not a big deal….it gets reset everytime you start the car anyways and it will only trigger the “Brake Lamp” light when you have the brake lights disabled and hit the brake pedal.

              6. Fuel Cutoff sw.
              A single pole, two terminal switch. Cut the power wire at the PGM-FI main relay. On mine, it was a Blue/red wire. It goes from the ECU to the main relay. The ECU sends voltage to the main relay anytime fuel pressure is desired and the main relay activates the fuel pump. With the Blue/red wire cut, connect one end to one terminal on the switch and connect the other end to the other terminal on the switch. If the switch is on, the main relay gets the signal to activate the pump. If it is off, then no signal is sent to the relay and therefore no fuel pump activity. Pretty straightforward.

              7. C.E.L. Check sw.
              I made a full write-up on this one a while ago so check it out if you have any questions. Basically, find the CEL jumper harness in your car. For most Honda/Acura, it is a blue plug with two wires that go to absolutely nothing. It is usually behind the passenger side kick panel, behind the glove box, behind the center console area (behind the radio), or in the interior fusebox area. Find it, cut the plug off the end of it and connect one wire to one terminal on the switch and the other wire to the other terminal on the switch. With the switch on, it will flash any current codes. With the switch off, the CEL does not flash any codes.

              8. Master Window Close sw.
              A single pole, two terminal switch, a SPDT relay or timer relay, and a diode for each window being wired up. This ones a little more involved than the previous ones. You need to find the wires that operate the closing function of the windows and sunroof. Mine was a wire for the sunroof, a wire for the pass. window and a wire for the driver window. When these wires get voltage, the windows close. You need to use a relay and diodes to isolate the windows from eachother and create a new electrical circuit for them. One terminal on the switch connects to a +12V switched power source and the other terminal connects to pin 85 of the master window close relay. Pin 86 of the relay connects to ground. Pin 30 of the relay connects to a fused +12V switched power source. Pin 87 connect to the window control wires. Be sure to use the diodes as shown. Otherwise, when you hit the driver side window up switch, ALL windows will close….. and anytime you hit the sunroof close switch again ALL windows will close…… and anytime you hit the pass window up switch again ALL windows will close. You NEED the diodes to isolate them so that you still have normal individual window switch operation. Another thing to keeping mind is that anytime you have this switch activated, it is sending voltage to the window motors telling them to close. If you leave this switch on after the windows are closed all the way, you WILL burn up the window motors. A way around this is by using a timer relay and set the timer to the desired amount of time (usually around 8-10 sec.). If you buy a timer relay, then just wire it up exactly as explained above with only one change (use a normally open, momentary push button switch instead of the single pole switch), set the timer and you’re done. However, if it is a regular relay, then you’re probably a cheap/poor bastard like me, and in that case, just remember to flip the switch back off when the windows are done closing. Or, you can do a little improvising…….The car already has a 10 sec. timer in it (part of the Integrated Unit) so you can use this one instead of buying an expensive timer relay. The existing timer relay is used on the ignition switch lighting. You ever notice how when you get in your car and close the door, there’s a single bulb in the ignition switch that stays lit for approx. 10 seconds? It’s controlled by the timer relay. In order to use this relay for the auto-close functions, it needs to be re-wired and would no longer work on the ignition light. PM me if you choose to go this route and I’ll give you all the details. It’s a little more involved than I feel like explaining right now. I’m just tossing ideas out to ya at this point, but basically, I say just remember to flip the switch back off when all the windows are closed and forget about the messing with any timer relays. I mean really, all your windows are closing on their own with the flip of a switch which leaves both of your hands free to drive so what more do you want you needy bastard!
              Last edited by ACCLUDE91; 10-12-2007, 01:05 AM.

              My Accord History:
              91 EX 2dr : 91 EX 2dr : 91 LX 4dr : 93 EX 2dr : 86 LXi 2dr : 92 LX 4dr : 92 EX 4dr

              -Patrick

              Comment


                #8
                9. Master Kill sw.
                A single pole, two terminal switch and two SPDT relays. One terminal of the switch goes to ground and the other terminal goes to pin 86 on both relays. Pin 85 on both relays goes to a +12V switched power source. Cut the +12V constant wire in the ignition harness and attach one end to Pin 30 on one relay and the other end of the wire to pin 87 on that same relay. Now cut the +12V switched wire in the ignition harness and connect one end to pin 30 of the second relay and the other end of the wire to pin 87 on that same relay. Wiring it this way ensures that when you flip the Master Kill switch, it kills power to basically everything, including the master kill switch and relays. Hell, it even kills power to the spark plugs, fuel injectors, and just about anything else under the hood too. The only closed circuits at this point should be any device that connect directly to the battery (starter and underhood fusebox). This ensures that even if you leave this switch on (allow electricity flow), it will not drain the battery at all and also allows everything electrical to work as it should. If the switch is off (no voltage flow) then the car will not start, and basically almost nothing electrical will work. I choose to wire this up for safety reasons in the event of a wreck or an electrical fire, but it also kinda acts as a secondary theft deterent system cause this switch overrides the ignition switch and push-button start switch. Basically, if this switch isn’t on, nothings gonna work. Between the ignition switch changes, push-button start, master power kill switch and hidden disable switch makes it difficult for most amateur thieves to steal my car. Plus there’s quite a bit of added safety from electrical fires in the event of a wreck.

                10. Ignition sw.
                The only change to the switch itself is that I disabled the “Start” mode. Basically, even if you put the right key in the ignition and turn it to start, the engine will not start. You have to use the push button start switch as described below and as explained above, the Master Kill switch must be on too. Other than that, I just relocated it.

                11. Push Button Start sw.
                A normally open, two terminal momentary push button switch and a SPDT relay.

                12. Cig. Lighter
                No changes here. I just relocated it.

                13. Air/Fuel Meter
                Pretty straightforward install. Refer to your installation instructions. Basically, it should have around 4 wires total. One wire goes to +12V switched, one wire goes to ground, one wire to the O2 signal wire and one wire goes to your lights wire. It may also have another wire that goes to the O2 as well. Your A/F meter may be different so refer to the installation instructions that came with your gage.

                14. Window Auto-Close Disable switch
                A single pole, two terminal switch, two SPDT relays, and a timer relay. The Window Auto-Close feature is one of the only mods I have that is not usefull at the racetrack. It’s convenient to not have to touch the window switches, catches people off guard and makes them do a double take and that’s about all it’s good for. Remember, this feature automatically closes the windows after I have pulled the key out of the ignition, opened the door and closed it. Before I can turn my back to walk away from the car, the windows will automatically close on their own. That’s great and all, but what if I want the windows to stay down even after I’ve left the car or what if the windows are already up and don’t need to auto-close. This switch solves that issue. In order for the windows to auto-close, this switch must be on.


                For all devices being powered, I ran NEW connections to them directly from the underhood fusebox. I did this to ensure that I was not exceeding the amperage limit of the OEM ignition harness and OEM wiring. Since everything is completely separate from the car wiring and fused individually, it just guarantees that I’m not gonna burn up the cars wiring or fry anything. Here’s how to do this if your setup requires it or if you would just feel more comfortable knowing for sure that your car is not an electrical fire waiting to happen:

                *DO NOT DISECT THE UNDERHOOD FUSEBOX. You will never be able to re-asseble it correctly. There are no wires inside of it and there is nothing inside of it that will make your life any easier. It resembles more of a layer circuitboard appearance than a fusebox. Just don’t take it apart. Trust me! I know some jackass out there is gonna take their damn fusebox apart just I cause I said not to, but there is absolutely no reason to so just don’t do it! Instead follow this procedure:

                First, disconnect the battery, remove the fusebox cover, and then remove the 8mm bolts holding the two main wires (one battery connection and one starter connection). Then remove the (3) 10mm bolts holding the underhood fusebox in place and remove the one electrical connector on top of the fusebox. Pull up on the fusebox enough so that you can squeeze your hand underneath and disconnect all of the electrical plugs from the bottom of it. You should be able to completely remove the fuebox from the car at this point. With it out of the car, look for fuse slots that do not currently have any fuses in them. Using a multimeter, put one lead to the battery wire connection of the fusebox (one of the 8mm bolts you remove) and put the other lead in one of the empty fuse slot connections (two per fuse slot). If it does not read continuity then put the second lead in the other empty fuse slot connection. When you find one that reads continuity with the battery connection input, remember which one it is (or label it) and proceed. Otherwise keep testing until you find one that has a connection with the battery input. Once you find the battery side of the fuse (input), you need to find where the other end of the fuse comes out of the fusebox (output). To do this, put one multimeter lead on the output side of the fuse slot. Make sure it’s secure and then flip the fusebox over. Test for continuity with every single pin at the electrical connections on the underside of the fusebox until you find the one that reads continuity with the empty fuse slot you want to use. Once you find that, find the plug coming from the car (and the corresponding wire within that plug) that makes a connection with the correct fusebox pin connection. Cut that wire somewhat close to the plug but make sure you leave yourself enough left to add on to. Now add on your own wire the short wire coming from the plug. Make it at least 5 feet or more because you need to run it through the firewall to the interior, and ultimately, to the relay used to power your devices. To run it through the firewall, conveniently, there’s a grommet directly below the fusebox. It goes right behind the A/C evaporator box and bolwer motor box behind the dash. Pull the carpet back on the passenger side. This may require the removal of the kick panel and the door sil. I suggest poking a small hole in it with a screwdriver or something similar. Then tape the wire you want to run through securely (extremely secure or it will come off) to the end of a metal coat hanger or a car antenna. Then push the antenna or coat hanger (with the wires attached) through the hole you poked. Push it far enough so that the antenna/coat hanger and wires are visible inside the car. Un-tape the wire from the coat hanger and pull it all the way through. Then go back under the hood and remove the coat hanger/antenna. Run the wire inside the car as needed to the relay or whatever you want and make the final connections. As usual, you want to try to make the wires as nice and neat as possible using tape, loom, zip-ties, or all of them. Repeat this process for as many wires as you need run and then re-install all the paneling/ carpet that got removed. Reinstall the fusebox (reverse of removal) and put a fuse in the empty fuse slot that you just wired up. If the fuse doesn’t blow then you’re done. If it does blow then you have a short to ground somewhere in the wire(s) that you just ran so double-check them.

                My Accord History:
                91 EX 2dr : 91 EX 2dr : 91 LX 4dr : 93 EX 2dr : 86 LXi 2dr : 92 LX 4dr : 92 EX 4dr

                -Patrick

                Comment


                  #9
                  Like I said, most of this stuff might be too extreme or too excessive for most people. With my car, it’s all about function and performance over comfort and looks. I’m willing to sacrifice just about anything if it will improve performance or make maintenance and servicing easier in any way at all. It’s kind of a unique street/strip car. There are many changes for it coming in the near future (including more weight reduction, roll cage, brakes, seat(s), harnesses, about 400whp daily driven) and it should be one hella fun car to drive!


                  Hope this wasn’t too difficult and maybe you got a few good ideas from it. I hope I’ve been able to explain things clearly up to this point. It’s kinda like information overload but too much info is better than not enough right? Anyways, good luck for those who cared to try any of it, or got some ideas from it and tried something different.


                  ~More useless articles like this one coming soon!

                  My Accord History:
                  91 EX 2dr : 91 EX 2dr : 91 LX 4dr : 93 EX 2dr : 86 LXi 2dr : 92 LX 4dr : 92 EX 4dr

                  -Patrick

                  Comment


                    #10
                    80+ views and no questions/comments yet?

                    I will not be around much for the next few months so ask while you can!

                    My Accord History:
                    91 EX 2dr : 91 EX 2dr : 91 LX 4dr : 93 EX 2dr : 86 LXi 2dr : 92 LX 4dr : 92 EX 4dr

                    -Patrick

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Nice write up (missing pics). I kinda understand what your going for. My Hombre does this. everything still has power until I open the door. I don't mind it, but to me it's not worth the work to rewire to achieve this. I'd rather that the 3 sec and put the key back in to close the sunroof. Great write up though
                      !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        HOLY CRAP!!! Amazing write up man. Def a must for anyone looking to track their car.


                        Originally posted by Maple50175
                        Oh here we go again. Maples other half.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Good job.
                          **Blk Housed Slut Crew Member #1**

                          **Don't b scared be prepared for the worst**
                          Da Drizzle's Sedan - Dr. Diy's Blk Housed Thread

                          '90 2Tone Coupe-Car Heaven_'89 Lude-Junk Yard
                          Mostly Usdm, some Jdm,Edm,&Puerto Rican RICE

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