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SUSP: Replacing The Brake Master Cylinder

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    SUSP: Replacing The Brake Master Cylinder

    This is a guide for those who are not familiar with the correct procedures of Replacing a Brake Master Cylinder.(BMC)

    If you have to Replace the BMC make sure you Bench Bleed it Before installing to the vehicle. Before you remove the old BMC, mark the brake lines to correspond to the ports.
    You can Bench Bleed a BMC by clamping it in a Vice. Fill up the BMC with approved DOT 4 BF. Remove the Rubber Blanking plugs, Lay down a couple of large rags to catch the brake fluid.
    Step 1. Using a No 3 Phillips Head Screwdriver (or equivalent tool),push the piston in fully and hold.
    Step 2. Cover All Ports with your Thumbs or fingers (Having a helper will be much easier).
    Step 3. Now release the piston only when the ports are covered.
    Step 4. Push the piston back in fully (slowly).
    Step 5. Repeat Steps 1 - 4 Until there is no more air in the BMC.
    Step 6. Refit the Blacking Plugs so you don't lose BF from the BMC.
    Step 7. Fit the New BMC onto the Vacuum Booster.
    Step 8. Refit & tighten the Brake Line to correct ports (Marked before removal)
    Step 9. Have a friend sit in the drivers seat to operate the Brake Pedal.
    Step 10. With Rags under the BMC to protect Paintwork etc, get your friend to lightly pump the brake pedal SLOWLY.
    Step 11. Using the correct size Flare Pipe Spanner, Crack open the ports, only one at a time. Start with the rear pipe.
    Step 12. Ask your friend to push the Brake Pedal Down Slowly until it reaches the floor (Be Careful not to push the pedal too fast as it may pop the seals inside the Brake Booster).
    Step 13. Tighten the Port Up.
    Step 14. Top up the BMC Reservoir and Repeat Steps 11 - 14 with all other ports including bleeding at the Calipers.
    Step 15. Once all the air is bled out of the brakes. Wash off all excess BF with good old H2O. (Which neutralises the BF)

    If there is any questions just PM me and I'll do my best to answer your queries.

    Cheers
    Geoff Cubbon
    GEN46L

    #2
    yup, very easy to do. i need to do the brake booster though, it is going to be a bitch!
    I <3 G60.

    0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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      #3
      you should have temporary clear hoses and fittings on the MC when bench bleeding. it's really hard to tell if you've gotten rid of all the air without them (it's also very messy ). attach fittings and clear hoses onto the MC and pump the pistion slowly. i redirected the hoses back into the reservoir which is 75% full of new fluid. make sure the ends of the hoses are submerged in brake fluid when bench bleeding.

      i'm unclear in step 11 with the "flare pipe spanner". are you bleeding the master cylinder or are you bleeding the brake calipers?
      1cor10:31
      - 92 LX coupe
      - 96 EX wagon (sold)

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        #4
        Originally posted by timmy0tool
        i'm unclear in step 11 with the "flare pipe spanner". are you bleeding the master cylinder or are you bleeding the brake calipers?
        The Flare Pipe Spanner is like a Ring Spanner with the end cut out (Picture Below). It's for the Flare Nuts on the BMC . You don't want to round off the nut when using a open end spanner. You can also use them on the caliper bleeder nipple but a ring spanner is best suited for that.
        Attached Files

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          #5
          anymore pics?? never did the brakes before.........

          Great achievements result from great effort

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