Do-It-Yourself Brake Fluid Flushing w/o the Need of A Specialized ABS Tool
We use the Buddy system version, since its more reliable, and sociable. I am sure we all can get somebody to work with us, even if we have to put up with constant nagging.
Take the wheels off (or one at a time) (if you forgot to jack the car, prior to this step, DO NOT GO to step 2, GOTO Dealer)
Get some clear tube, from TUBES 'R US or your closest automotive store.Bring 2 one-liter/quart cans of ATE blue or Motul or some DOT4 race brake fluid. Dont be cheap on this one it doesn't pay to save 3 bucks.
Start with the tire furthest away from the brake pump. Passenger side rear and end up to the driver side front.
Take the little "cute" caliper drain valve hat, and plug the tube at the end of the valve.
HERES ONE DIFFERENCE: Start the engine. yah, that's it. Don't be afraid of 1 million psi stories, about beheading of unsuspected DIY ers.
Remove the brake fluid container cap, and top with fluid.
Have somebody pump the brakes, and while holding /pressing, open the bleed valve until the fluid comes out and before the brake pedal drops, close the valve.
HERE'S THE DIFFERENCE: Repeat step 7 until THE TOPED BRAKE FLUID CONTAINER BECOMES EMPTY (not all the way, cause then you will suck in air). Don't just wait until fresh fluid comes out.
The latter is not enough. You have to bleed - empty- and top off the of fluid container at every caliper bleed. When the engine is on the ABS pump is on and it takes longer (more fluid) to flush that part of the brake circuit.
Repeat steps 6 and 7 for the rest of the wheels.
Get under the car, look on the clutch cover (I think its on the drivers side) for a identical brake bleeder valve. Repeat steps 6-7 in order to flush the hydraulic (power) clutch system.
Turn engine off.
Put wheels back on.
Test the brakes and off you go.
We use the Buddy system version, since its more reliable, and sociable. I am sure we all can get somebody to work with us, even if we have to put up with constant nagging.
Take the wheels off (or one at a time) (if you forgot to jack the car, prior to this step, DO NOT GO to step 2, GOTO Dealer)
Get some clear tube, from TUBES 'R US or your closest automotive store.Bring 2 one-liter/quart cans of ATE blue or Motul or some DOT4 race brake fluid. Dont be cheap on this one it doesn't pay to save 3 bucks.
Start with the tire furthest away from the brake pump. Passenger side rear and end up to the driver side front.
Take the little "cute" caliper drain valve hat, and plug the tube at the end of the valve.
HERES ONE DIFFERENCE: Start the engine. yah, that's it. Don't be afraid of 1 million psi stories, about beheading of unsuspected DIY ers.
Remove the brake fluid container cap, and top with fluid.
Have somebody pump the brakes, and while holding /pressing, open the bleed valve until the fluid comes out and before the brake pedal drops, close the valve.
HERE'S THE DIFFERENCE: Repeat step 7 until THE TOPED BRAKE FLUID CONTAINER BECOMES EMPTY (not all the way, cause then you will suck in air). Don't just wait until fresh fluid comes out.
The latter is not enough. You have to bleed - empty- and top off the of fluid container at every caliper bleed. When the engine is on the ABS pump is on and it takes longer (more fluid) to flush that part of the brake circuit.
Repeat steps 6 and 7 for the rest of the wheels.
Get under the car, look on the clutch cover (I think its on the drivers side) for a identical brake bleeder valve. Repeat steps 6-7 in order to flush the hydraulic (power) clutch system.
Turn engine off.
Put wheels back on.
Test the brakes and off you go.
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