**Please PM me and/or post specific questions**
Alright, I wanted an easy way to get fairly accurate camber measurements without having to take my car to an alignment shop all of the time. I fabbed this simple jig using a 10' piece of 1.5" steel angle iron, and some 2x4s. The 2x4 blocks are notched to allow the angle iron to rest upside down....this ensures my "centerline" remains flat and level even with the car on top. This jig is a ramp, and establishes a perpendicular center line for the front/rear suspension. I assembled it on a flat, level surface in order to obtain more accurate/consistant measurements. Your blocks should be EXACTLY the same in all dimensions to ensure consistency.
The washers that I used are 3/8". The new bolts I believe are M10x12, with a 1.25 thread pitch. It would be best to pop one of yours out and check it against the new ones before installing. I simply layed the threads against eachother.
Here is a rear shot of the jig, before the car is backed onto the 2x4 blocks.
And another with the jig set against the rear tires.
Then, I simple back the car onto my jig making sure to center the rear tires/wheels over the angle iron. I was looking for centerline camber measurements.
Assuming you're on a flat/level surface, and the cars suspension is evenly loaded your measurements from both driver and passenger sides should be relatively close to eachother. I'm using a metal square to establish the "zero" degree camber reference point, the square should sit flush against the steel angle iron, and touch the tire at the bottom.
Next, I measure from the bottom of the rim lip to the square.
Then the top, this is obviously greater with a negative camber situation.
The difference between my two measurements was approximately .25"-.3" per side, again it's not rocket science you just want to be close. I decided that 3 washers was appropriate for the WASHER SHIM TRICK. I wanted to illeviate the majority of the negative camber in the rear, but not go over "ZERO" and create a posative camber situation. I also purchased longer bolts.
You'll need to get the rear of the car up on jack stands, and place your floor jack under the rear shock mount in order to lift the weight off of the upper suspension mount.
Remove the upper 14mm bolts, clean the mating surface where the washers will sit, and install the washers with the new longer bolts.
I was able to adjust almost all of my rear camber out of the suspension, right now I am dealing with a 1.5" drop in the back. If you're lower, a few more washers and longer bolts might be needed. Be aware of the inner fender clearance! I had plenty of room, but for anyone looking for a "ZERO" setting or near zero with a race drop or lower.........you might have problems.
I placed the car back onto my jig to measure rear camber again, it's almost exactly at "ZERO." Both sides are very close to eachother in my post washer install measurements.
Passenger side
Driver side
Alright, I wanted an easy way to get fairly accurate camber measurements without having to take my car to an alignment shop all of the time. I fabbed this simple jig using a 10' piece of 1.5" steel angle iron, and some 2x4s. The 2x4 blocks are notched to allow the angle iron to rest upside down....this ensures my "centerline" remains flat and level even with the car on top. This jig is a ramp, and establishes a perpendicular center line for the front/rear suspension. I assembled it on a flat, level surface in order to obtain more accurate/consistant measurements. Your blocks should be EXACTLY the same in all dimensions to ensure consistency.
The washers that I used are 3/8". The new bolts I believe are M10x12, with a 1.25 thread pitch. It would be best to pop one of yours out and check it against the new ones before installing. I simply layed the threads against eachother.
Here is a rear shot of the jig, before the car is backed onto the 2x4 blocks.
And another with the jig set against the rear tires.
Then, I simple back the car onto my jig making sure to center the rear tires/wheels over the angle iron. I was looking for centerline camber measurements.
Assuming you're on a flat/level surface, and the cars suspension is evenly loaded your measurements from both driver and passenger sides should be relatively close to eachother. I'm using a metal square to establish the "zero" degree camber reference point, the square should sit flush against the steel angle iron, and touch the tire at the bottom.
Next, I measure from the bottom of the rim lip to the square.
Then the top, this is obviously greater with a negative camber situation.
The difference between my two measurements was approximately .25"-.3" per side, again it's not rocket science you just want to be close. I decided that 3 washers was appropriate for the WASHER SHIM TRICK. I wanted to illeviate the majority of the negative camber in the rear, but not go over "ZERO" and create a posative camber situation. I also purchased longer bolts.
You'll need to get the rear of the car up on jack stands, and place your floor jack under the rear shock mount in order to lift the weight off of the upper suspension mount.
Remove the upper 14mm bolts, clean the mating surface where the washers will sit, and install the washers with the new longer bolts.
I was able to adjust almost all of my rear camber out of the suspension, right now I am dealing with a 1.5" drop in the back. If you're lower, a few more washers and longer bolts might be needed. Be aware of the inner fender clearance! I had plenty of room, but for anyone looking for a "ZERO" setting or near zero with a race drop or lower.........you might have problems.
I placed the car back onto my jig to measure rear camber again, it's almost exactly at "ZERO." Both sides are very close to eachother in my post washer install measurements.
Passenger side
Driver side
ACCORD4THGEN 
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