Originally posted by Accord1320
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SUSP: All Camber Kit info
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Originally posted by Tnwagn View PostThere are two different ranges
1) -1.5* to +1.5* of camber adjustment
http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR...d2=67145&cmd3=
2) +1.5* to +3.0* of camber adjustment
http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR...67340(8)&cmd3=
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that is part of the info, i need to know the physical movement that the camber device used moves the component that achieves the 1.5 degrees .
if someone had installed theirs recently i was looking for a rough measurement of the movement the adj. (balljoint or bushing) provides. from my current info it seems to lengthen the upper arm about 1/2inch per 1 degree of camber
this info can be used to calculate the lower arm positionLast edited by cb9wagon; 12-02-2009, 04:30 PM.
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Originally posted by cb9wagon View Posti'm curious how much physical movement do the adjustable ball joint produce?
they claim to be 1 degree adjustable.
1) -1.5* to +1.5* of camber adjustment
http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR...d2=67145&cmd3=
2) +1.5* to +3.0* of camber adjustment
http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR...67340(8)&cmd3=
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i'm curious how much physical movement do the adjustable ball joint produce?
they claim to be 1 degree adjustable.
doing this is a precise proceedure. on the bench i can do it very accuratly and be able to reienforce the hole/ mounting area. the car is off the road tomorow so i can tie up these loose ends.
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That is a possibility, however I would take that route with extreme caution. The holes have to be perfectly aligned and very well inforced so as to not break while driving. For most people that don't have the know how or equipment to perform such a job, the adjustable balljoints or anchor arms provide an easy fix.
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i got an idea. borrowed from some 300zxtt build some time ago. they used a hole punch and a eccentric washer.
i have an extra front subframe. what about re drilling the lower control arm bolt hole 3/4 " inward. this would eliminate adjustable ball joint slipping, control arm beating the innner fender and keep stock bushings in the control arm.
of course reinforce the area and so on. this will require welding and some time on the fabrication bench.
i've recently dumped the coilovers for some stock sedan springs in the rear and a 2" spring in the front. now the car is alot lower in the front and camber is really out.
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Originally posted by Luna92 View Postthis right here is some great info. im a visual learner so pics and videos help out alot. great job man.
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this right here is some great info. im a visual learner so pics and videos help out alot. great job man.
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Bumping this so people can get their learn on.
To answer slick's question, even though I'm months late...
No, it won't push the wheel out as a spacer would. It would change the angle of the wheel so instead of being very negative with the washers ( like this: / ) it would push only the top of the wheel out so it would be less negative ( like this: l ). Hope that clears that up
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very helpful thread
i have a question since your the know it all.
does the rear washer trick push the rear wheels out more?
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