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SUSP: Front Brake rotor replacement

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    SUSP: Front Brake rotor replacement

    I see this question pop up a lot in other forums, I think it should be addressed here too. As most of you know, the front rotors are a pain to get off, since the hub assembly is in the way. Most folks say use a slide hammer to separate the hub assembly from the bearing assembly. IMHO, you don't have to use a slide hammer at all.

    There are a couple of places on the web to get information and pictures on how to replace the rotors for this stupid design:

    http://www.federal-mogul.com/fmeconn...loads/3501.pdf

    and

    http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800d1c42.jsp

    Here's what I did (basically a re-hash of the autozone info)

    1. After removing the caliper and caliper mount. I removed the 36mm spindle nut with an impact wrench -- I had to go out and buy a new impact gun (my porter cable was rated at 425 lbs, but I bought an Ingersoll Rand rated at 600 lbs, with a claim to remove nuts torqued to 1000 lbs) (and yes I did unstake the nut) (Note: new nuts cost me about $5.30 each from my local parts store)
    2. disconnected tie rod ends (go and borrow a suspension tool kit from your local parts store - has a tool to make this easier than pounding on it with a hammer)
    3. disconnect upper ball joint. (note: if your upper ball joint boot is cracked and you want to replace it, you have to buy the whole upper control arm - about 150 from honda and 125 aftermarket)
    4. disconnect lower ball joint. (this can be replaced if needed - 75 bucks from Honda or about 25 aftermarket)
    5. after removing the entire knuckle off the car. there are 4 bolts with star shaped heads. I thought you would have to use a special socket like a torx head or something, but there are too many points for a torx socket. I found that a 12 point 11mm socket fits perfectly.
    6. Gently tap around the bearing to get it free of the knuckle
    7. After removing the bearing assembly from the steering knuckle, you can remove the 4 bolts that hold the rotor to the hub.
    Last edited by jimmyzgarage; 07-17-2004, 12:04 PM.

    #2
    Thanks allot of guys where asking about this, you a good man
    To have loved and lost is better than to have never loved at all #CB7Life

    Comment


      #3
      5. You use a 12 sided 10mm socket to remove the bolts securing the bearing/hub to the knuckle.


      Good write up
      My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

      Comment


        #4
        since u guys doing that u might wanna check the axle boots and the lower bolt joints and the lower contrall arms. see if they need replacments. so u can do all of them at once.

        and by the way taking off the lower bolt joint is a pain. so use a 2 ton puller ($10)
        are we there yet are we there yet are we there yet

        Comment


          #5
          its a ball joint, not a bolt joint, just to clarify. also, if its like any other car ive gotten ball joints out of, then all you gotta do is hit it as hard as you can a couple times with a hammer and POP, shes out.

          Comment


            #6
            very nice writeup


            - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
            - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
            - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
            Current cars:
            - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
            - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

            Comment


              #7
              i want to see pictures...

              Be Clean

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