I see this question pop up a lot in other forums, I think it should be addressed here too. As most of you know, the front rotors are a pain to get off, since the hub assembly is in the way. Most folks say use a slide hammer to separate the hub assembly from the bearing assembly. IMHO, you don't have to use a slide hammer at all.
There are a couple of places on the web to get information and pictures on how to replace the rotors for this stupid design:
http://www.federal-mogul.com/fmeconn...loads/3501.pdf
and
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800d1c42.jsp
Here's what I did (basically a re-hash of the autozone info)
1. After removing the caliper and caliper mount. I removed the 36mm spindle nut with an impact wrench -- I had to go out and buy a new impact gun (my porter cable was rated at 425 lbs, but I bought an Ingersoll Rand rated at 600 lbs, with a claim to remove nuts torqued to 1000 lbs) (and yes I did unstake the nut) (Note: new nuts cost me about $5.30 each from my local parts store)
2. disconnected tie rod ends (go and borrow a suspension tool kit from your local parts store - has a tool to make this easier than pounding on it with a hammer)
3. disconnect upper ball joint. (note: if your upper ball joint boot is cracked and you want to replace it, you have to buy the whole upper control arm - about 150 from honda and 125 aftermarket)
4. disconnect lower ball joint. (this can be replaced if needed - 75 bucks from Honda or about 25 aftermarket)
5. after removing the entire knuckle off the car. there are 4 bolts with star shaped heads. I thought you would have to use a special socket like a torx head or something, but there are too many points for a torx socket. I found that a 12 point 11mm socket fits perfectly.
6. Gently tap around the bearing to get it free of the knuckle
7. After removing the bearing assembly from the steering knuckle, you can remove the 4 bolts that hold the rotor to the hub.
There are a couple of places on the web to get information and pictures on how to replace the rotors for this stupid design:
http://www.federal-mogul.com/fmeconn...loads/3501.pdf
and
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800d1c42.jsp
Here's what I did (basically a re-hash of the autozone info)
1. After removing the caliper and caliper mount. I removed the 36mm spindle nut with an impact wrench -- I had to go out and buy a new impact gun (my porter cable was rated at 425 lbs, but I bought an Ingersoll Rand rated at 600 lbs, with a claim to remove nuts torqued to 1000 lbs) (and yes I did unstake the nut) (Note: new nuts cost me about $5.30 each from my local parts store)
2. disconnected tie rod ends (go and borrow a suspension tool kit from your local parts store - has a tool to make this easier than pounding on it with a hammer)
3. disconnect upper ball joint. (note: if your upper ball joint boot is cracked and you want to replace it, you have to buy the whole upper control arm - about 150 from honda and 125 aftermarket)
4. disconnect lower ball joint. (this can be replaced if needed - 75 bucks from Honda or about 25 aftermarket)
5. after removing the entire knuckle off the car. there are 4 bolts with star shaped heads. I thought you would have to use a special socket like a torx head or something, but there are too many points for a torx socket. I found that a 12 point 11mm socket fits perfectly.
6. Gently tap around the bearing to get it free of the knuckle
7. After removing the bearing assembly from the steering knuckle, you can remove the 4 bolts that hold the rotor to the hub.
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