Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

[Raf99]

Wow that's tight. Nice work!

I went with the easy route and bought a brake booster delete kit from Xenocron. Comes with an adapter plate and the Wilwood 7/8 master cylinder w/remote reservoir.

Manual steering and manual breaks should keep me in shape!

I did put some serious thought into this. I technically had manual brakes for a long time. But decided not to because of pedal travel and hard braking scenarios (rev matching, etc.)

That actually rhymes. Good job!

I was reading about booster deletes not too long ago and how you could make the brake effort easier by changing the pivot point and making the cylinder diameter smaller, but it would have the drawback of increasing pedal travel. Has anybody here tried that yet?

The pedal travel was a big turn off. Especially when trying to rev match where the gas and brake pedal are not at the same level. The other annoying thing was the amount of pedal travel before things started to work. And it was hard to get the proper braking pressure, ie - ever drive a new car and you rest your big toe on the pedal and you get brakes! I'd rather that than the manual pedal.

[Raf99]

Got things back together, just need to bleed the brakes.

[SanJoCaF22DrAcc]

Nice bro. I need to replace my brake booster too. It works with the car on, but I can hear air escaping. Basically a vacuum leak. Then I hear the air escaping from the booster when I shut the car down and the pedal gets super stiff. I really love the fact that you color matched yours. I was definitely planningnon doing the same when I replace mine. It really does look great.

[Raf99]

Nice bro. I need to replace my brake booster too. It works with the car on, but I can hear air escaping. Basically a vacuum leak. Then I hear the air escaping from the booster when I shut the car down and the pedal gets super stiff. I really love the fact that you color matched yours. I was definitely planningnon doing the same when I replace mine. It really does look great.

Thanks man. Glad you stopped by!

The stiff thing mine was doing as well. When I shut the car off the pedal would raise up towards me with such pressure I couldn't stop it.

[Jarrett]

Instead of the plate that blocks air from that one side, did you experiment with the idea of a divider plate that would force air to both sides. This would still allow wind from driving to cool the turbo without taking much away from what would be going to the radiator. If not, do you think it would be worth it to at least louver the panel.

[Raf99]

Instead of the plate that blocks air from that one side, did you experiment with the idea of a divider plate that would force air to both sides. This would still allow wind from driving to cool the turbo without taking much away from what would be going to the radiator. If not, do you think it would be worth it to at least louver the panel.

Did not think of it as the turbo is oil and water cooled.

[Raf99]

Oooooo dam. I'm a little excited over this!

[sonikaccord]

Spacely sprockets...first thing that came to mind, sorry.

[Raf99]

Spacely sprockets...first thing that came to mind, sorry.

lol, but it is the F23 5th gear shaved down to fit into the T2T4.

[Raf99]

work colleague and myself carrying 23,000GB of HDDs up an elevator the other day. People who seen us looked confused.

[Raf99]

Anyways, back to the exciting news. I did get the shaved 5th gear back. They did a great job and even put oil passages back. Only charged me $30+tax and in the end the specs are 1mm off.

Clearance between 4-5


Between 5th and bearing (not that it mattered)



The original spec of the T2T4


Now the T2T4 with the shaved down F23 5th gear

[blk91coupe]

That's awesome, if I ever have to pull my T2T4 apart I want to change out 5th gear for something more economical on the highway.

[Tishock]

It does matter a little. Is the 1mm difference on the bottom or top of the gear or a combined amount? If its only on the top or the bottom, then the gear rolling contact pattern will not be ideal. Seeing as you're putting down more power than our trannies were designed for. This may lead to early failure. Because all/most of your gears will be off by almost 1 mm, you'll be putting more stress on the edges of each gear tooth or causing a wear steps. Gears 1-5 if on top and gears 1-4 if on the bottom. "Helical gears only contact a small part of each tooth at any point, the contact point slides along the length of the tooth as the gear rotates. See pic helical gear misalignment, wear step"



Say you were 1mm shorter than it's suppose to be. Besides the gear pattern being off. You would also run the risk of having accidental gear contact under extreme loads. For example, CS gear 4 may come in to contact with MS gear 5 and/or CS gear 2 and MS gear 3.

I would go back and have that extra millimeter removed

[Raf99]

It does matter a little. Is the 1mm difference on the bottom or top of the gear or a combined amount? If its only on the top or the bottom, then the gear rolling contact pattern will not be ideal. Seeing as you're putting down more power than our trannies were designed for. This may lead to early failure. Because all/most of your gears will be off by almost 1 mm, you'll be putting more stress on the edges of each gear tooth or causing a wear steps. Gears 1-5 if on top and gears 1-4 if on the bottom. "Helical gears only contact a small part of each tooth at any point, the contact point slides along the length of the tooth as the gear rotates. See pic helical gear misalignment, wear step"



Say you were 1mm shorter than it's suppose to be. Besides the gear pattern being off. You would also run the risk of having accidental gear contact under extreme loads. For example, CS gear 4 may come in to contact with MS gear 5 and/or CS gear 2 and MS gear 3.

I would go back and have that extra millimeter removed

Hmmmmmmmm............... I'm not even sure how that gear in the picture would do that. Looks like they were using another gear that had teeth too big.

I do see what you are saying but let's keep in mind that the measurements are hard to get exact in the first place. You know when I mean when you use the caliper tool on it sometimes you get +/- 0.5mm.

Also that the shaving only moves the gear down on the shaft, to make it in the same position as the OEM one. The diameter and how the gears on both shafts lock to each other does not change. But I do agree that the teeth will meet at a different spot.

Currently the 5th gear on the CS had to move down by 4mm. I took 1mm from the bottom, leaving clearance so the gear does not touch the gear below it and 3mm from the top, leaving enough clearance so the bearings do not rest on the gear. The only other spot to take more material off would be on the bottom, which may allow the gears to touch, rub, and shred metal.


........... I'll have to put the shaft back in the tranny and see what it looks like and how it shifts. The other thought on this was that the 5th gears on both shafts never matched up anyways. Not sure if Honda designed it this way but all the gears are not perfectly evenly matched up (level wise).


Your thought are welcome though! I have no-one else to talk to this about....

[accordboi77]

Just spent 2 days looking through a 80+ pages... Wow, What an awesome build man! We have a similar setup, so It gives me hope that mine will actually be finished someday soon. Keep it up!