Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

[Raf99]

super you are nearly done with that fuse box project. and everything still starts and runs fine.

Installed today, and working fine. Installed the first connectors under the ECU plate and then ran the wires out the side.





Not sure where or how this is going to go yet.

[Raf99]

I will definitely make it look better. Only thing left is a power wire of proper length. I'm also thinking that the wire for the amps distribution block needs a circuit breaker to shut things off.
Doing this also cleared things up on the starter bolt. The 2AWG wire from the battery leads to here and the alternator also connects here with a in-line fuse.. I'll buy a 2AWG to 2x2AWG splitter and do things proper in the bay for power too.

Besides some little things this should work fine. Can't see any issues but pretty sure I have one of the most complex wire setups.

[Raf99]

So wasn't happy with how the wires of the fuse box extension were sitting. They were jammed in under the rear seat and along the side. Figured I'd do it right or not at all.

Took back seat out, ran wires accordingly. Before the wires were stuff in, now they lay flat under the rear seat and flat along the side. Very hard to get all the wires to fit!


Figuring things out


End product. You don't see any of this with the seat up.





So originally the fuse box gets a direct power cable to the battery. Now with the fuse box in the rear i can run a direct power cable to the battery, technically just closer to the battery now. With this picture you can also see how I should have a breaker on the wire which feeds the distribution block / amps.




Also with this setup I can now install a proper splitter in the engine bay as there are only two items that need power now; starter & alternator. I bought a rocksford 2awg 1in - 2out splitter which will work nice there.

[Raf99]

So I always was a fan of the 94-95 V6 4 door side skirts. But for those who have ever used them there is no clean way to mount these. Today I resorted to this after much though. Ya, looks ugly. You can't see them with the door closed and may replace the screws with...... chrome fasteners or something.

May go back to OEM skirts...

[domesticated]

Your wiring looks so much better than mine. Looks awesome!

[Raf99]

Your wiring looks so much better than mine. Looks awesome!

Thanks man.

I should mention I did take the car out for a cruise yesterday to test the wiring and changes. The car stalled twice at two red lights. But I could never get it to do it again. ............... Not sure how this could be related to the wiring I did, if anything it would be from moving the ECU around. But A/F, volts, idle, and everything else ran fine. So ya, maybe a dirt IACV, it has been a while since it's been cleaned. But car runs amazing still. Pulls great, zero body roll, very grippy, turbo and BOV noise present, but would love to quite the muffler some. There's a sharp corner on a back road I love! The road follows a lake and at one point it goes around the corner of the lake in the shape of a U, but not a full U. I can go into that corner in 3rd and once the car starts to slide on corner exit give it a bit more gas, already at around 5psi+ and the front will slide out just as i'm exiting the corner, doing about 120km/h at this point. LOVE IT!

Some things that need attention real soon though...

- The catch can drain. Needs a proper AN fitting and open close valve. Right now the rubber hose with a bolt in the end is not doing the job
- The side skirts function like shit and look like shit. May go back to OEM skirts
- Brakes need to be re-bled or something. Ever since I replaced the brake booster the amount the pedal has to travel before brakes kick in is too much! I will just go through the brake bleeding procedure again I guess.....
- Tranny is still loose, grinding 5th, sloppy. Everything from below the shift knob needs to be replaced (shifter cable bushings, shift linkage, tranny bearings, syncros, etc. I still wish I could find someone to take on this task. Not a lot of work, but a lot of experience required!
- DAT FART CAN. OMG, I thought the dynomat would drown out some of the exhaust noise. NOPE. Still too loud, still too annoying. Great when you're on the gas and love the roar, and great that the car sounds like a 5.0 mustang at low rpms going slow. But average driving = fart. I wish it sounded like the TSX with it's dual exhausts.

[domesticated]

I keep nearly stalling my car because it's so loud I think the engine is at a higher RPM than it actually is.

[Raf99]

Boooo, sally is sick. Since the fuse box relocation she does not want to idle at a right light/ stop sign or struggles to. I really really doubt that the two are related to each other and I'm sure this is going to be an exhaust leak or clogged IACV. Also when it struggles it is LEAN! Like 17 A/F lean !....

and....... I'm not experienced enough to troubleshoot this So I'll just start looking.

[Raf99]

Rather than move the fuse box again and get power to it i'm thinking the IACV is causing the idle issues. What ya think?

[sonikaccord]

Nah...that IACV looks fine. Actually, it could use a bit more fertilizer in there.

Seriously, good job on the wiring. I think this failure is coincidental. At least I hope it is.

[Raf99]

Nah...that IACV looks fine. Actually, it could use a bit more fertilizer in there.

Seriously, good job on the wiring. I think this failure is coincidental. At least I hope it is.

Thanks...Ya.... after I put the IACV back on and wired it back up when it turn the key to ACC now I get the dreaded solenoid clicking from the boost controller. Last time this happened the MAP sensor was unplugged. But i checked this.... and tested the voltage from the sensor and it was fine. Battery was 11.4V so I threw a charger on it. We'll see what happens.

Oh... Got a proper drain hose/valve for the oil catch can! Only cost me $12 for the hose, ends, and on/off valve

[Raf99]

Yep. Car = broken. Can't get the boost solenoid to stop making a loud clicking (on/off) with the key on ACC. I'm thinking my MAP sensor is not working but testing this is easier said than done.

[Raf99]

Well the battle continues. I've...

- Cut and soldered the ground wire which comes from the fuse box / which is also the ECU ground. Gave it a good ground.
- Took the IACV off again and re-checked the connectors, wires, and such
- Jacked the car up and checked all other wires and connections
- Checked each spark plug for fire = good

Still the same sound with the key on ACC, which is this sound:



Even dipped into S300 and did some data logging. I turned off boost control which put a stop to the buzzing, but the car will still not start. It will for 1 second but a low idle. Right now i'm trying to determine if the MAP sensor should read what I'm seeing. ya....... all greek to me....


The shit storm..









May have to let the professionals solve this one as I have no Friggin idea why the boost solenoid is making that sound or why the car will not start.

[Raf99]

SHIT BALLS! I solved my problem Soooo happy, can't wait to drive her again! It was a bad map sensor ground. Look at this crap mess. Had no voltage between positive & ground on the connector but did before that ugly butt connector some young punk installed who didn't know how to solder (me ).

I cut all the wires and soldered them properly.

[Mike1357]

I hate problems like that. Glad to see you got it figured out though. The fuse box relocation looks really well done.