Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

[Raf99]

You describing how driving a twin disk makes me not want to get one. It almost sounds unbearable to just simply cruise around. It’s interesting that the twin disk doesn’t require a more “brutal” break in session. I would have expected a couple high rpm dumps and then you were good.

Ya, it's not OEM. I've driven a standard my whole life, heel/toe is natural now etc. & I still can't take off on a slight hill using heel / toe with this yet. I do know they make a hydraulic throw out bearing for the B/K series which makes it easier but they do not make it for the H series. I WILL get use to it. And probably then the city driving will work. But it is a challenge

I've been reading / searching for the break-in period on this and I cannot find anything. The instructions do not say and random forums state different things. I wrote the manufacture to ask. Right now I'm going to assume there is some form of break-in period.

[Raf99]

Well.... I will admit I expected something bad to go wrong as this is my first time doing most of this. And that 'something' has presented itself, in the form of 'I'm an idiot' :P

After long hot drives the tranny fluid is leaking out between the cases on the bottom. I tried to band-aid it but the last time it was there more. Seems to be a small drip. &.... then I realized..haha

I used the wrong bond when joining the case. I used the high heat red when I should of used honda bond or the grey trans fluid version. But ... my own fault.

Now my only worry is, can I lower the engine enough to slip the trans out, taking into consideration that the pressure plate is longer/larger. Even still.... to do this job is so GGGrrrr ......

LBJ, axle, intake, shifter cables, VSS lines (PS fluid will leak everywhere;;going to try to pull the VSS out of tranny and leave it dangling), ...

and the dam tranny is not light. .. But this needs to be done. Sorry Sally.

[Raf99]

[NH-503P-3]

I had to pull my tranny a while back for a quick fix. It sucks. I feel for ya bro. I wonder if our clocks can work as a volt meter or be custom built into one kinda like your setup. It looks great.

[Raf99]

I had to pull my tranny a while back for a quick fix. It sucks. I feel for ya bro. I wonder if our clocks can work as a volt meter or be custom built into one kinda like your setup. It looks great.

Yeeep. I did pull the tranny and it sucked. Really sucked. Almost easier to pull the engine. I really should have tried lowering the engine more on an angle, but I was already pushing it. Axles had to come out, traction bar had to be taken apart. VSS sensor, mounts, intake piping, etc. Getting it back in was a battle! There was a lot of sweat and cursing involved!!



I was amazed how quick I can tear a trans apart and put back together now.


The soup like mess that was created by using the wrong sealant. All cleaned up and used the good grey shit.


A aluminum washer I found on the garage floor under the front of the car. I have no idea where this came from or where it goes. I have never seen this before in my life. I doesn't seem to match any diameter of anything on the whole engine/trans. Meh....


She's back up and running.


Grill is the last to go on as she idled.
\

I also found out the clutch has no break in period I also adjusted the clutch so the engagement point is near the floor more. Went for a drive around the block. Squealed the tires accidentally trying to leave the stop sign haha. Going to take it easy on the clutch and trans for a while. The twin disc is louder now that she's broken in a bit. But I definitely want to try a 2nd gear burn out hehe.... I'm also looking for some ideas on how to make he car look meaner.

[CyborgGT]

Looks like the oil pan crush washer.

[Raf99]

Looks like the oil pan crush washer.

Good catch, but no. I checked and it is not that. I'm not sure where this came from. But took Sally for a 3 hour drive today and no issues. So...not sure.

LOL. Wanted to see how the new clutch responds to a burn out compared to the old clutch. haha hahahah haha... Oh my. I was a like a giddy school kid. First gear felt like I was on ice. No issues at all. Before I knew it I could see LSD black marks in the mirror and all one could hear was BOV from hitting red line and letting off the gas. After that it was just playing around with the throttle to make them spin less or more. That truly made my day

[G. Wiffington]

This build is so badass!!!!

The voltage meter you made is soooo goooood!!!!!!
I want that so bad in my CB.

I was thinking maybe that washer looks like the one for fill bolt on the trans?

[Grumpys93]

Good catch, but no. I checked and it is not that. I'm not sure where this came from. But took Sally for a 3 hour drive today and no issues. So...not sure.

LOL. Wanted to see how the new clutch responds to a burn out compared to the old clutch. haha hahahah haha... Oh my. I was a like a giddy school kid. First gear felt like I was on ice. No issues at all. Before I knew it I could see LSD black marks in the mirror and all one could hear was BOV from hitting red line and letting off the gas. After that it was just playing around with the throttle to make them spin less or more. That truly made my day

And you didn’t record it to share with us.....

[Raf99]

And you didn’t record it to share with us.....

True. Hard when you drive alone. I'll try to get something for ya.

So another issue has risen. I blow my 180amp in-line breaker to the ALT when I use my heater fan (on high), with the lights on, stereo on, everything on.

The setup is battery in trunk. 2AWG to engine bay (w/ 180amp breaker)
Splits to two 4AWG (in engine bay)
1 x 4AWG -> starter
1 x 4AWG -> ALT & fuse box (but the alt has a 180amp breaker right after the split because it's a gauge drop and because that wire goes under the car and could be damaged.

Seems correct. Never had any issues. ..... until I turned the heat on the other day and she almost left me stranded. Glad I installed the volt meter in the dash. I looked over and it said 9V ... I turned shit off (stereo, lights, etc. and then it said 10V. The car will act weird after that as you are limiting volts to the ECU or having "brown outs". Dash dims, etc. Gauges go weird.
I turned the heat off, flicked the circuit breaker switch and started it. It barely started and came back to life. Still, not cool!

Now I'm left in a situation where I don't know a lot of people who I can "run this by" and determine the correction. The car guys I know don't get this technical. Also, there's no going back to the old setup, that was years ago.

So I've been thinking about it for days and I always trust the gauge chart. I'm going to replace the 180amp breaker for the ALT (in engine bay) with a 200amp. Yes the wire can handle it. But before I do there is one pending question which I do not know..
How is a 130amp output ALT blowing a 180amp in-line circuit breaker? and/or ... is the blower motor pulling more amps than needed due to old age..

[CyborgGT]

Do you have a ground running from the battery to the engine?

https://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=1144338

[Raf99]

Do you have a ground running from the battery to the engine?

https://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=1144338

No. And hmmmm. yaaa... I've been sitting here reading for 2 hours now & u my friend have a good point. You have to have a complete circuit! Fine for low impedance "accessories" to use vehicle ground. But the spark plugs, alternator, starter, all use the block as a ground to complete the circuit.

https://www.w8ji.com/negative_lead_to_battery.htm

https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ound-wire.html

I'm still reading trying to determine the symptoms one would see if they didn't directly ground battery to engine. Is it that your alternator simply has to work harder when there's no proper return ground?

[CyborgGT]

I think the starter needs the most current of anything on the vehicle, and from what I understand both the alternator and the starter primarily pass current through the block. "Path of least resistance" and all that, they've got a lot more resistance to draw through if they've only got the chassis grounds to work with. And then I'm not sure if issues arise if that chassis-ground-only current has to back-track through other components, some live, some not. I've read a few domestic forums/tech sites that say to ground the battery in the trunk to the frame, then from the frame up front to the engine block, but I'm not sure if a unibody provides as solid a ground (or if it makes a difference at all). I don't know, I'm definitely not an electrical pro, so hopefully someone with more knowledge can chime in. Honda grounds the battery to both the chassis and the engine block from the factory, though. If it were me, I'd run two grounds off the battery: one to chassis and one all the way to the block, then two from the block to the chassis.

Doing some searching, I'm reading that insufficient grounding can also cause electrolysis in the coolant, and even degrade the aluminum in the radiator! I wonder if an iron block vs an aluminum block makes a difference in that, with the possibility of dissimilar metals between engine and radiator...

[toycar]

Whip out a meter and check amperage coming through on the heater.

Something is pulling amperage over 180 to blow the fuse

When voltage drops, amperage spikes. Keep that in mind.

My money is on a ground issue personally, but you have so much work done here it's hard to just assume one thing or another.

It's a hard sell that the blower is singularly responsible. What all is on the circuit that could pull that kind of amperage? I dont think upping to 200 amps is the answer

Is this issue new since the wire tuck/engine bay project?

[Raf99]

I don't have the tools to test the alternator amp draw.

I do know what causes it to happen and the final straw is turning the blower motor on high. So one would argue that it has an issue. I agree with ya'all & I'm not going to install the 200amp breaker. I think the whole wiring system needs an overhaul. When you look at this drawing below of what I did change you also have to add that the two stereo amps hang directly off the battery pulling alot of amps.

I'm guessing the alternator is working overtime to charge the battery (which quickly drains + is not replenished properly due to no negative cable return to the block) + fuse box essentials (blower motor, lights, etc.). Not sure the total is 180+ though but the distance is far.



If I still blow the 180amp circuit breaker with this setup it's time to invest in some better tools and/or pull the blower motor out and test it.