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Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

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  • Raf99
    replied
    wet sand and buff n stuff. Will do for now...

    Orange peel........




    Wet sand




    Buff...


    & fini...



    Cheers!

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Also going to do a quick fix on the corner drivers side engine bay area too. Many moons ago when I tried to get the front hood lip to fit I jammed the hood too hard (without adjustments) and "dented" the paint. Just where the underside of the hood lip chipped the paint. Glad to fix this one, been driving me nuts. It was only on one side too. Will wait to buff out some orange peel and it will look great!














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  • Raf99
    replied
    Thanks Aasco for sending the bolts. Appear to be 5mm longer than the old but shouldn't be an issue.



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  • Raf99
    replied
    The battle scars of trying to stuff a dual clutch trans in WITH the engine in :\ Easy to fix things up once the whole bay has been painted now too. Picked up some cans, we'll see how the color match comes out. Blending it in is easy too after primer.







    For the below pics, I'm cleaning up the passenger side wires in the bay. What you are looking at here is a lazy passenger side wire tuck done back when I was a youngin, and the power wire going to the fuse box + negative wire I ran to the battery a while back. All these wires are going to be moved up through the passenger foot well to the fender vs. entering the bay to get there. In the end the only wires coming through the firewall are the engine harness wires and map sensor wire.








    Picked up a valve seal removal tool too.



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  • Raf99
    replied
    Transmission removal and twin disc clutch inspection - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X10HeBWTPnc

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Hell no, would I use that Mr. Bean engine stand. eeeek. And attached garage. Great size as there's a good 4-5 feet on either side of the car and more in front of the car. No way I was having one of those garages you can't even open the car door, been there before. Here's the vid I was thinking of, Eric the car Guy modified his engine stand to easily allow for them to pass over/under each other. I may try this, but ya.. extending the boom all the way allows for these to hook up.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQdjzZEoidI

    Today I tackled a problem someone else caused. Something that can only be fixed with the engine out. Someone stripped two bolt holes for the intermediate axle shaft on the back of the engine block. They tapped the bottom hole to 12mm as they could access it with the car on the lift. But the top left hole you cannot access, just too tight to get a tap/die in there. So today I tapped the top left hole and got a bolt for it. Also had to drill out the hole in the shaft connection part...





    Fixed



    Last edited by Raf99; 01-15-2021, 07:51 PM.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
    Well, because I lost a contract (big job) due to COVID and stuff, so I got time on my hands these days Here's a vid sped up x1000 of me trying to put the engine on the stand...grrrrrrrrr.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHHt95Q02mY
    Lol! I felt that “grrrrrrrrr”. It seems like you did a pretty good job problem solving during the mounting though. I will have to revisit this video the next time I have an engine out situation.

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  • Grumpys93
    replied
    I use an engine stand similar to this:
    https://www.vevor.com/products/engin...RoCjLAQAvD_BwE
    It has given me a scare from time to time when rolling the engine around, by almost tipping. But it fits inside the hoist wheel base. Though I also extend the boom on my hoist to the longest section.

    but your making great process and I envy your space in your garage. I’m assuming it’s a detached garage?

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Well, because I lost a contract (big job) due to COVID and stuff, so I got time on my hands these days Here's a vid sped up x1000 of me trying to put the engine on the stand...grrrrrrrrr.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHHt95Q02mY

    Leave a comment:


  • SSMAccord
    replied
    You are making fast winter project progress!!! I am envious.

    I also hate that the engine stand interferes with the hoist. It is a conundrum.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    So far no real issues so far. Think I'll order some new clutch to flywheel bolts as these have the anti-sieze hardened into the threads. I ran them through a bolt to get the junk off but meh.... not trusting them. The plates have no warpage, they are in spec for all clearances advised by Tilton.


    We are going to look into a small oil leak on the timing belt side, I always see a small drop at the bottom of the timing belt cover. & I got one of these again to make an attempt at the power steering cooling...


    The after math. Sometimes I do with this was all one connection (well.. the wiring to the engine).



    & putting the engine on the stand. Always a huge PITA because the stands collide with each other! Think I seen a youtube video where some guy made one stand higher than the other so they slide over top.
    https://youtu.be/IHHt95Q02mY



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  • Raf99
    replied
    Fini... always makes a mess though..




    ----------------------

    Can view the gopro time warp vid here if you are bored. Not sure how to embed youtube yet in here.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    It has begun, most I could get done tonight. Takes a lot of time, that's all. Get's easier every time though. Items left, PS, fuel lines, remove the crank pulley........ and take the turbo off..

    Attached Files

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Ya. appreciate the feedback. I was worried that with different pistons and the block being sleeved using a different thickness would cause improper clearances and pistons may hit. But sounds like we are talking 0.05mm here....
    Oh booy, let the fun begin then. Although I do need to purchase a bearing set for the trans.

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  • Grumpys93
    replied
    So I second what Will said. I have actually reused my ARP head studs on 3 different engines and still have yet to have a Headgasket blow on me. I used it on my first f22b head swap with the evo 3 big 16 g. I then used them when I was running a stock f22a1 and I am now running them on my current set up.

    I also use the OEM Headgasket as well, if your worried I use the copper Headgasket spray you can get at an auto parts store to help the seal.

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