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Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

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    Originally posted by SSMAccord View Post
    Oh no. That is rotten luck. Perhaps you finish the other 3 lights in the mean time and stalk eBay for a single lamp, should one show up?
    Really one of the bummers of working on an older car. Everything is scratched, dented, .... used. Nothing is new and you can't bring the parts back to OEM quality. The past few months I keep thinking ........ " where are all the parts....!?!". I'm amazed at the parts I use to see on ebay for a cb7 are now gone...

    - Greddy lips
    - Xenon parts
    - Digital climate controls
    - Intersection lights
    - One piece headlights
    - One piece tail lights
    - .......

    In fact, I think we are at the age where there is only ONE set of one piece headlights and clear tails left online! Same with G-Square grills etc. Too bad the price of carbon fiber hoods hasn't come down yet.


      Man, you stay busy with this thing. How many hours do you dedicate to it per week?
      The Lord watches over me!

      "...they did the bowties, I did the ascots, as much as I have, I'm still reppin' the have nots..."

      - So Raspy


        Originally posted by Straight Success View Post
        Man, you stay busy with this thing. How many hours do you dedicate to it per week?
        Always tinkering with something it seems. But I'm in Canada, so each winter is a major project or upgrade for Sally. As I get older and the parts get rarer things seem to slow down though....


          Guess it's time for an update. Not too sure what's going to happen with Sally to be honest. With COVID and loss of some contracts she won't see the ole' mighty $$$ anytime soon. Which leaves me tinkering with cosmetic items and other small things. There's a few things of course. #1 - A big huge thank you goes out to SSMAccord for finding these for me and sending them all the way up North where the Canadians roam. I cannot find these here anymore. Thanks ya sir !

          I've been picking away at this spare head I got. I started peeling, picking, sanding the paint away. Pain in the a$$ to do but meh.

          You can see where someone was using a screw driver to remove rusty header pipes. It was also painted black at one point, then red.

          And here's Sally's last drive out of the garage for 2020, thought I'd share the perspective!

          Attached Files
          Last edited by Raf99; 12-08-2020, 08:47 PM.


            Good update. I do not envy getting the paint off of that head. I am glad the moldings worked out! And yeah, it is time for the northern CBs to go away from winter and salt for a while.


              For your taillight project... looking through my bookmarks, I found a site that still lists red/clears for sale. Is the red on those removable, or is it like stock where the plastic itself is colored all the way through?


                Originally posted by CyborgGT View Post
                For your taillight project... looking through my bookmarks, I found a site that still lists red/clears for sale. Is the red on those removable, or is it like stock where the plastic itself is colored all the way through?
                Ya, not sure. I have red clears myself and have never really looked. Thanks for the link though ! I'll think on it, removing the red paint from ever mm and getting it polished back to perfect takes a lot of work.


                  Red clears do have red plastic like stock tail lights.


                    Still plugging away at bits and pieces.

                    Ripped into this head some more and took it fully apart, sanded all of the paint off the unit. Determined it has one bent intake valve on cylinder # 3 but the rest looks good.
                    Used that cheap ebay style valve remover which does suck. When you try to align the valve in the center (under load) so you can get the keepers in you want the space around the valve (where the keepers slide in) to be equal. THAT part is hard to do using this tool while holding the valve in. Made a long boring video of this that you can see here. So head is back together, needs a severe cleaning and one intake valve. There may be stripped bolt threads for one of the bearing caps too. *shrugs*. & sanding the lines and nicks out of the door bump stops too.

                    Last edited by Raf99; 01-03-2021, 01:00 PM.


                      Ok, this is what I'm thinking.......Assuming the issue is the valve seals, then at the bare Minimun, will need....

                      ARP Head Bolts - $300
                      Cometic Head Gasget - $100

                      After that it's nothing but time....

                      edit: Ahh.. maybe not the head studs..

                      "Are ARP bolts and studs re-usable?
                      Yes. As long as the fasteners have been installed and torqued correctly, and show no visible signs of damage, they can be re-used. If they show any signs of thread galling or corrosion, they should be replaced. In the case of rod bolts, if any of them have taken a permanent set and have stretched by .001” or longer, you should replace them immediately. See page 29 in the catalog for more detailed information on this critical measurement.

                      And if that's the case then I just need to determine what head gasket to use. Anyone have any thoughts on re-using ARP head studs for a H22?
                      Last edited by Raf99; 01-06-2021, 07:06 PM.


                        Raf, I've bought the ARP head studs and I'm certainly going to reuse them when I take the head off. I don't know when that will be, but one day.

                        Honestly if I were you, I would just use an OEM H22 gasket as long as your pistons aren't oversized. Your compression is low enough (8.0:1 or 8.5:1 or even 9.0:1) your only going to possibly raise the compression by .1 or by .2 at the very most with a head gasket. I actually have 0.75mm over Type S pistons in my H22A and used a stock head gasket if I remember correctly. This is with a decked block .005" and a surfaced head .005". This is putting my compression ratio around 11.2:1, granted my elevation brings it down to about 10.3:1. Still my setup is far closer to having valve interference than your setup is.

                        Otherwise keep up the good work.
                        Last edited by Rilas; 01-07-2021, 05:22 PM.
                        MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)


                          So I second what Will said. I have actually reused my ARP head studs on 3 different engines and still have yet to have a Headgasket blow on me. I used it on my first f22b head swap with the evo 3 big 16 g. I then used them when I was running a stock f22a1 and I am now running them on my current set up.

                          I also use the OEM Headgasket as well, if your worried I use the copper Headgasket spray you can get at an auto parts store to help the seal.
                          FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                          MR Thread:


                            Ya. appreciate the feedback. I was worried that with different pistons and the block being sleeved using a different thickness would cause improper clearances and pistons may hit. But sounds like we are talking 0.05mm here....
                            Oh booy, let the fun begin then. Although I do need to purchase a bearing set for the trans.


                              It has begun, most I could get done tonight. Takes a lot of time, that's all. Get's easier every time though. Items left, PS, fuel lines, remove the crank pulley........ and take the turbo off..

                              Attached Files


                                Fini... always makes a mess though..


                                Can view the gopro time warp vid here if you are bored. Not sure how to embed youtube yet in here.