Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

[Raf99]

Soooo..... ya. The pulley wheel (outside) tooth count is different, but the inside blade count is the same. But a different shape, & obviously with a smaller outside wheel (less teeth) it would spin faster. Not sure why the h22 engine would have different sizes / speed of water pumps...... anywho...

H22 Small pulley (20 tooth)

Different design blades / 7 blades


H22A Large pulley (26 tooth)




Mine = OEM. Prob good thing I replaced it


The 20 tooth one was listed as:
Honda 19200-P14-A01
Water Pump (Yamada)
1992-1996 Honda Prelude 19200P14A01 (but it's for the H22A1 or maybe H23)
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuin...0-P14-A01.html

The 26th tooth one was listed as:
Honda 19200-P13-003
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuin...0-P13-000.html

But I can see the confusion. When you look up H22 it always gives you the first 20 tooth part.

back to Sally...
I did get the water pump replaced and all parts installed, some lock tight and bolts torqued.



Water pump missing part.... glad it's fixed.





I even got the transmission back on...


This was the easiest I've ever done it. A block at the base just the right height so it centers up. Use the jack and wood to tilt it up and in. Lift with arms if needed. Slid right in!



I always question the tightness...
https://youtube.com/shorts/HCBOtoNnnEc?feature=share

[daovangphotos]

And finally got the right part. 26 teeth vs. the smaller 20 tooth one. Believe I have all the parts now and can put Sally back together again

What is this about the water pump tooth?

I been fighting a over heating issue for the longest time.
I want to believe it has something to do with the pump now too, after reading your post about the 20 tooth vs 26 tooth.

What are the part numbers, and what makes them different ?

I am using a manual tensioner conversion for my kit.

[Raf99]

And finally got the right part. 26 teeth vs. the smaller 20 tooth one. Believe I have all the parts now and can put Sally back together again

[Raf99]

Not sure, from what I could tell it was a JDM vs. USD thing. (H22A vs. H22).

Got this from a friend the other day, with pigtails! Thanks Jacob! Sally has 368,000km and this cluster is 324,000km, kind of close!

[CyborgGT]

Do you know if it was an H22A1 vs A4 discrepancy, or what?

[Raf99]

Thank . Water pump arrived, buuut wrong part. Didn't know H22s had different size wheels on the pumps. Anyways, ordered another....

[SSMAccord]

Good job cleaning up that bolt and getting this back together.

[Raf99]

OK. So wrote guy on ebay who was selling a block that had this bolt, got him to sell me said bolt. This is the last bolt of this kind for sale on all of earth. ha....



Clean it up


It goes here... and like CyborgGT said the bearing doesn't even touch this thing.. but I can see how it's a fail safe too.



Make sure to use the proper balance shafts bearing. New one is the green one. I thought there was some interference here but nope.... all good. Just waiting on a water pump and I'll put this all back together. The current water pump has a broken corner "nut" and it accepts a bolt which holds the plastic cover on. Always annoyed me that it was broke.

[Raf99]

the manual tensioner pulley is larger diameter than the automatic one. as long as its still within its adjustment range after the belt is set in place, nothing to worry about! just less leeway/play for actually getting it installed.

which timing bolt in particular are you referring to? that is no longer available?

90016-P5M-000 - Honda tensioner bolt .

[cp[mike]]

the manual tensioner pulley is larger diameter than the automatic one. as long as its still within its adjustment range after the belt is set in place, nothing to worry about! just less leeway/play for actually getting it installed.

which timing bolt in particular are you referring to? that is no longer available?

[Raf99]

So I'm pretty sure I found the last timing adjuster bolt in North America for the H22 engine. Tried about 15 sites, Honda's in the US & Can, online etc. No go. Found a guy who was selling a H22 block (bare) on ebay but had the one bolt I needed in it. Was the only bolt left in the bare block too. Wrote the guy, asked him to sell just the bolt and he said no. But then said yes. But then he posted the bolt on ebay for $200. :\ ...... I replied with a bid for $80. He replied with a re-big for $40. lol. So i bought it.

On the other hand, I tried the new timing belt with the manual tensioner and it was super easy to get on. 155 teeth on the belt. But the old belt is impossible to get on! (and always was). It's 155 teeth too though. Almost like one belt feels like leather and the new one feels like rubber..
I read about this online a lot. People saying the belt used with the manual tensioner was always too tight to get on. Or the manual tensioner made it impossible to get the belt on.

[Raf99]

That's mighty kind of you and glad you're around! Glad to know the light only comes on once extended. On the diagram, the motor unit does have these 4 wires. which control the up/down motor and the light power. Looking at what powers the harness....

I still can't quite figure out these wires on the part of the harness that goes under the steering column. I can't see this whole setup needing 3 power wires....and 1 ground. Now obviously the two brown Honda molex connectors go in the fuse panel by drivers left foot. One of these connectors goes straight to the switch (in the dash), so i think this would be power from the switch (when pushed) > energizes the circuit to the relay box. The other power wires on that harness are to assist with power once relays are activated, ie: one for the motor and one for the light. But that still leaves me with this "home made" looking white cable... (which connects to the relay box also). This "home made" white cable is fused, another fused cable in a Honda fuse box and these two wires fused implies these two wires provide power to outside cabin. The lone single red positive wire (which connects to switch) is not fused (stays internal). But... not sure if I should just give all 3 of them power and see what happens or.... what is up with that white wire with no molex connector on it.

Any thoughts?

[cp[mike]]

here is a diagram I drew. I was trying to create my own relay box for it. You can disregard the circuit diagram, but the actual pinouts of the pole and switch are accurate.

Also worth noting that the light does not turn on until the pole is fully extended. There is an internal limit switch that turns the light on at the very end.

[Raf99]

Not sure, but the for sale photos of it showed it working & the details said it was working. I think it works like the intersection lights. It needs two power sources; ie: car on + headlights on. There's two sets of wires coming off the motor, one set I identified for the motor up/down. I assumed the other set (brown connector) was for the light (although it was a large awg wire). I simply gave the power connector 12V and nothing. Soo we'll see when I hook the car up to power I guess.

Trans finally done.

[cp[mike]]

it's a tiny incandescent bulb like the dashboard. it could be swapped for an LED but the power to it would need to be adjusted appropriately (LEDs dont accept 12v)