Looks like fun. There are a couple small lakes I drive past on my way to work, but they're always choppy as hell when they freeze over. Lots of ice fishermen get out there and cover them with tents, at least.
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Well.... time to start getting back in the game a bit. I was on a good vacation there for a bit. On with the show eh...
- I have the head gasket on the way but it will take weeks. Even if you order from cometic themselves it takes weeks. I did not know this :\ I wouldn't think it was hard to make a head gasket.
- I have bearing and seal set for the trans now. So that needs to come apart. Should be easy. Think have a bud who wants to assist with that.
- The spoiler always pissed me off. Always uneven, horrible body work on it, done by myself. Need to see if I can improve that. Since I have the G-Square grill to paint, I'll do the spoiler too. (do by cans). It's really really hard to get things level here on this thing. The sides are uneven too soooo can't just "skim the top". Need to setup a jig...
- Big thanks to Beater_CB7 for mentioning in a thread about Jordan Distributors / push button start kits! I haven't been this excited about a mod in a while...
Skiing in 18C, gotta love Canada.
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A break is always welcome, looks like you’ve had some fun skiing though. I’m interested to see push button start turns out. I’m somehow afraid I’ll miss my steering column lock functionality if pursue that upgrade. Perhaps there is a way to retrofit a newer, keyless steering column lock and retain that functionality as well...hmmmComment
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Skiiing was ok. Only go a few times a year.Originally posted by SSMAccord View Post
Right, there is no way to keep it, unless you keep the OEM ignition and key and put the start button somewhere else. But we know this is stupid, no-one wants to use a key and a push button start + the other complications you run into.
So for now I think I'll get a steering wheel hub lock. I wonder how new vehicles keep the lock + start button....Comment
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Newer cars use an electronic column lock that is connected to the starter circuit to disengage the lock. Using the TLX and ILX as research since they use keyless ignition with push start, the column lock seems to use a bracket that is similar in style to the CB column lock but I’m not sure if the unit is RF or if it has a wired connector. The column shafts might also be dissimilar diameters as well.
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I ahh.. don't know how ours works to be honestOriginally posted by SSMAccord View Post
. Care to share?
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There is a mechanism that has a rectangular tab connected to the ignition cylinder. The rectangular tab fits in a corresponding void in the steering column, when you turn the wheel and the ignition is at '0' position the tab engages the void in the column locking it at that position. When you turn the key, it pulls the tab down allowing the column to rotate freely.
Key @ "0"
Key @ 'I'
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Hmmm ya, thanks! Appreciate it, never seen this before. That's quite the chunk of steel there. Well....... the only way I'm keeping this with the push button start is if I put the push button start elsewhere and use the key (and that's not happening). In the instructions they give you a few options:
1. Put push button elsewhere and use key / wheel lock in OEM location. (but dangerous to do obviously)
2. Cut a key so it sticks out 1-2mm from the cylinder lock. Leave the cylinder in the unlocked position / leave in car (put somewhere). Install push button start. (steering wheel is always in the unlock position)
3. Remove the wheel lock 100%, unplug and remove. Install push button start.
I'm going with option #3 here and may get a NRG hub lock. But this doesn't lock the wheel. I don't think there's any other way to lock the steering wheel without this unit in the car. So we'll also be going with some kill switches of course.Comment
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Something you may be interested in. Though I believe you already solved your issue.
https://www.kstuned.com/collections/...vel-water-neck~Nick~
FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93
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Yes! Someone sent me that via txt and I couldn't believe it when I seen it! Ironically that angle was the worst too when used with OEM or Mishimoto half rad. The angle required to bend a -16AN hose between those two spots is impossible. Kind of tells me someone didn't do their homework or maybe this works for a prelude.Comment
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Well you can swing it any angle you want. Up down left right, somewhat down. Can an OEM hose slide over a -16an fitting and use the OEM clamp to hold in it place and not leak?
Because I want to eventually upgrade to an fittings but don’t want to take on that project right now.~Nick~
FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93
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There's also this threaded base plate from QSD for a straight-out fitting. Maybe I just suck at searching, but I haven't been able to find hose fittings like the ones they show in their photos. I really like how this one blends into the OEM casting material; looks like it belongs there.
http://www.quartersportsdrag.com/GooseNeck.htmlLast edited by CyborgGT; 04-01-2021, 07:25 PM.Comment
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Ya, hose over top will work fine, i did it for a while. But seriously ... no way I could make any angle but straight work. And to say that this thing will angle up or down (to any degree) = bleeding nightmare. The coolant has to run almost free flowing between the upper rad and engine point. Anything else and the pump is trying to push the fluid. Suction bled maybe... The fun started for me on the below page. And with the OEM rad and half rad having the connection point in the middle is why the angle was just not happening.
After the headaches I was through trying to figure this out I would not buy this. It simply won't work with our setup. Product looks great though.
& ya, i would buy that 2nd one. Looks cool!
https://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb5/forum/...ord-ex/page173
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I'd like to say the G-Square grill came in perfect shape, ready for paint! It did not..., but all is fixable. The spoiler is tricky... trying to not get "waves" in the body work, including the edges.
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Hmmm....how large is the sanding block that you’re using on the spoiler? Also guide coat is essential for finding low and high points.Comment
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