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Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

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    Good progress. Getting down to wrenching at 6am is a feat! But it seems to have been time well spent.

    The PS mounting is a tricky situation, I think you've chosen the most available solution though.
    http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

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      Thanks!

      The ebay crank pulley came in. Now all looks good except the smaller pulley is smaller than my old by 1/4". Technically this would be make the PS quicker ? meh. don't really care.







      I started to freak out a bit here. I noticed that the key way was smaller on the new unit. I was thinking WTF.. do i have to shave / open something to make this fit??


      Upon closer inspection. Wow. Not only is the rubber cracked, but the key way is cracked and broken. So ya, this thing needs to be replaced!


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        Ok. So today we popped on that part and started the car. It was not happy........ It idled really low and rough until temps went up etc. & the intercooler is all disconnected. It still runs like shit and doesn't want to stay idle on it's own ......



        after warmed up...


        But after a bit it started to develop a noise on the cam shaft corner. What ya'll think. Belt too tight? Bearing? It sounds like a failing PS pump, but that's not connected.
        Last edited by Raf99; 05-28-2021, 10:38 AM.

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          Well i went with the consensus on this that the timing belt is too tight & already started ripping into it. There's no way that lower timing cover is going on with the rubber seal intact haha
          And there is some form of oil leak, what appears to be a slow drip from the corner of the oil pan.

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            That does sound like a belt being very tight. What tensioner set up are you running?
            http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

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              Yep. I edited the post above to show the car starting vid. One of the cameras did catch it. And last night / this morning I spent the whole time loosening the timing belt. Wow, first time I did that with the engine in the car haha. Pretty sure the engine feels easier to move, that belt was quite tight to get on with no tension at all. Almost done and I'll post some starting vids later today. Oh, also can't really find the oil leak. I think it's just the corner of the oil pan.

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                Have you got the H23 manual tensioner, though, or something aftermarket like KS Tuned's? Ditching the H23 tensioner was something I did during my rebuild, since the tension was making me uncomfortable. From what I understand, that high tension wears out the adjuster collar (#24 here: https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...-timing-belt-3), which then contributes to the H22's already notorious belt walk.

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                  Originally posted by CyborgGT View Post
                  Have you got the H23 manual tensioner, though, or something aftermarket like KS Tuned's? Ditching the H23 tensioner was something I did during my rebuild, since the tension was making me uncomfortable. From what I understand, that high tension wears out the adjuster collar (#24 here: https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...-timing-belt-3), which then contributes to the H22's already notorious belt walk.
                  Ya, I do have the H23 manual tensioner & the belt was tight to get on. Like had to put the pulleys on with the belt kind of tight. But to be honest I just don't know what too tight is here. I've never seen or touched another timing belt to know what to look for.
                  Watched videos etc, but sometimes your version of tight is different than others. But I did loosen the belt and instantly made that noise go away. I should invest in the K-tuned tensioner as it looks far easier to setup.

                  I got some vids this time of the initial start after belt adjustment. Still kind of running like shit? I dunno. Sounds like it's learning or IACV is not working. Going to put the intercooler / piping back on and troubleshoot from there.

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                    Ok, So any other issues can be fixed with the engine in the car. Time to get her back together again, which takes a bit of work (wiring, sorting wires, new crank pulley etc.) And have to figure out the PS too. Really wish I could get rid of it

                    So I have some doubts on this setup as I don't know the pressures involved on the low side of the PS. We know the cooler is placed at the top right here...


                    This is the setup I have come up with. Basically the PS fluid from the rack comes up the side of the block under the turbo and up to the cooler. Really trying to keep it away from the turbo. Then from the cooler to the reservoir. But......... the cooler is higher than the inlet of the reservoir and this may create a problem. Can the fluid push the air out of the system? Will the pump suck enough fluid up? And will the fluid push through to the res. .... , no idea on any of this.

                    Everything in my brain is telling me to rip it all apart and find another way that mimics the OEM setup in terms of height (cooler mid rad / res above / pump above res). But then again the OEM setup is pushing the fluid uphill anyways, to the cooler and reservoir.
                    It's a closed system sooo...... I'm thining when the fluid is pushed through the system the air will come with it? Dunno. Currently , technically the air can be trapped in the cooler part. And the real issue is the inlet/outlet ports of the Mishimoto res. Really limits where you can put this thing. And not sure that "general" hose will work with PS fluid haha






                    Now that I stare at this photos though, the obvious answer is to move the silver wind block-off plate up. Put the cooler at the bottom with the lines going through the body of the car (makes holes). Run everything behind the bumper / hidden. But again, also leads into questions like, how long can the line be between the pump and the reservoir?

                    Fini - in this photo you can see where the PS pump metal turned blue from being too hot last summer.






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                      Have you ever thought about running an electric pump? Like from an MR2 that you can mount the pump anywhere? There is a guy on the discord that did this setup. I have been researching it a bit, and came across this:

                      https://www.diyelectriccar.com/threa...ps-pump.19505/
                      ~Nick~
                      FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                      MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
                        Have you ever thought about running an electric pump? Like from an MR2 that you can mount the pump anywhere? There is a guy on the discord that did this setup. I have been researching it a bit, and came across this:

                        https://www.diyelectriccar.com/threa...ps-pump.19505/
                        I am dying to do a MR2 convert. But the cheapest pump i can find is $400 - $500 or more! There was a guy on here long ago who did it, this was a pic i saved.


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                          An electric p/s pump failure can be dangerous. Do all the research for that job. I've heard of an EP3 pump in an RSX sending a car off the road when the steering was suddenly twisted out of the driver's hands. One of those 'customer claims' auto shop channels on YouTube showed an S2000's acting possessed as well.

                          Wouldn't you want the reservoir highest though, for bleeding purposes?
                          Last edited by CyborgGT; 05-30-2021, 03:17 PM.

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                            Shit. Ya. Umm dam never thought of that haha. Hmmm ....... that's a little scary, guessing the usual safety features other cars have we cannot adapt (steering angle sensors, etc.).
                            As for the PS, ya I Read this LINK and decided to scrap the whole idea. Going to mount it lower, move that piece of metal up. Need to order some proper PS hoses too. Hard stuff to find.

                            And as for the car, still runs like shit and smells like burnt rubber. I'm worried that timing belt is still too tight, but I'm going to leave it. (I could twist the longest part 90deg. easily and did loosen it a bit, compared other vids etc. Probably just seals, oils etc.
                            I'm 100% the ignition timing is off. I did order a timing gun and we'll see what's up when it gets here. I'm hoping I can simply get the timing setting from SManager, then copy it on the engine side by using the timing gun on the cam gears. I read this is the way to do it. I can't use the flywheel as it has no markings on it but the AEM cam gears are marked. I don't know what ignition timing the tuner used, but should be able to download from ECU. All new territory for me. The car runs...... but ignition shown on SManager real time display is bouncing from 12 to 20. Not sure about that & i can't give it gas, it dies upon trying to catch idle.

                            But it's not leaking and ..... that's good

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                              Ya wow. Looking at youtube videos of Ford, Nissan, Honda...... all electric steering failing causing the wheel to turn on it's own. Wow, like I know maybe a 30+ cb7 would have this issue but it was a failing rack. Seeing these videos is a little scary. Haven't seen a video where it's happening on the highway yet. These cars are parked.

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                                Originally posted by Raf99 View Post

                                I am dying to do a MR2 convert. But the cheapest pump i can find is $400 - $500 or more! There was a guy on here long ago who did it, this was a pic i saved.

                                That is my setup lol. It has proven to be reliable, considering I only drive it 2000 miles a year or so. The wiring is fairly straightforward, there is a way to wiring in the error light as well.

                                The pump is kinda bulky considering the 3 point mounting, but you could mount it in the trunk and run the lines to and from the rack? That would kinda leave the cooler to be figured out.

                                JDMACCORD who posts here as well as IG is working on a fully electric setup that mounts under the dash and does away with the hydraulic component all together. It is a work in progress, but looks promising.
                                http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

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