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Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Hmmm so how do I test for this? Wouldn't I see this in my parasitic draw test?

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  • cloudasc
    replied
    Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
    No. it dies in 5-6 days with a 30amp drain on it.
    Had a Eureka moment to the source of your battery drain (and probably explains mine now that I think about it).... *drum-rolls*.... it's your Alternator...

    If a Diode goes bad in it, can cause a parasitic drain. Maybe your system is too much for the poor alternator? I know when I was cleaning under the hood a few months ago, noticed the windings on my alternator had discoloration (indicating they are getting super hot, which is a side-effect of demanding too much power through them [seen it happen to brushless motors demanding more current than their windings could handle in the FPV hobby]), but it wasn't until I read a post on another site (Piloteers) that gave me this revelation (and potentially explains why it can drain my battery down to nothing in 2-3 days just sitting).
    Last edited by cloudasc; 09-23-2020, 06:34 PM.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    yaaa heard / read of people using a drain > back into the pan, but you're also draining the milky crap too unless picked up by a sponge / mesh. + no issues the past 5 years. Plus i want to fix her right, and this could be a broken piston too. I think we are talking about filling the catch can in 500km.

    I already booked an appt to get a leak down test performed.

    (reservoir and cooler no longer in these spots, but oil catch can is).





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  • Straight Success
    replied
    Where in the engine bay do you have the catch can mounted? I couldn't spot it in the pictures I looked through or the YT videos. I see the drain hose, but not the actual mounting location.

    @Grumpys93 had a decent suggestion.

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  • Grumpys93
    replied
    You could weld in a bung on the back end side of the oil pan and then get a one way ball check valve so that when the engine shuts off and the pressure inside the crank case is 0 the ball check valve opens and allows gravity to drain the oil back into the pan.

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  • Fleetw00d
    replied
    Need to figure out a way to have the catch can drain back into the crankcase when you shut the engine down.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
    Have you tried driving around staying out of boost and seeing if you still get oil in the catch can?

    A leak down test will tell you more for sure.

    I like that drain setup way easier to drain then mine. Is it just a barbed nippled on the bottom of the catch can to a rubber hose to another barbed fitting to the valve?
    If I stay out of boost then less oil yep. & should be noted that I'm hard on the car every time, and it's ran flawlessly at 400HP for 5 years now. This oil issues came suddenly in the past month and has gotten worse.

    Bottom of catch can has a threaded nipple, attach hose of any length and valve on the end. Use the AC drain hose clips to hold it in place.

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  • Grumpys93
    replied
    Have you tried driving around staying out of boost and seeing if you still get oil in the catch can?

    A leak down test will tell you more for sure.

    I like that drain setup way easier to drain then mine. Is it just a barbed nippled on the bottom of the catch can to a rubber hose to another barbed fitting to the valve?
    Last edited by Grumpys93; 09-05-2020, 11:36 AM.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Yaa got it. thanks Reverse blowby! On all stokes, pushing air (compression / also a mix of everything) into the bottom end and basically pressurizing the whole engine and the only escape is the catch can.

    Where the same was true prior, but now with the blowby it's 5x (10x,..20x.) would also depend on the pressures applied (pressure increases the more boost) and other factors.

    No real way to test for this but a leak down test i believe...?

    edit:
    After changing the oil and looking her over, he's emptying the catch can after driving 100km
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQ9jov8zgUk

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  • Fleetw00d
    replied
    One of the sources for oil consumption and burning in a naturally aspirated engine would be oil being sucked past bad rings into the cylinder during the intake stroke which is obviously meant to suck air in through the intake valve; another source is oil coming through the intake valve seals. With bad rings on a NA engine, the pressure during inside the cylinder during compression and combustion will allow air (and fuel during compression) and exhaust gases (during combustion and also exhaust stroke) to leak past (blow by) the rings into the crank case.

    In a turbocharged engine, the intake manifold pressure is higher than crankcase pressure, so during the intake stroke the boost pressure may actually result in blowby even during the intake stroke, so oil doesn't tend to be drawn into the cylinder., so you don't see blue smoke in the exhaust. The even higher compression (more air in the cylinder because of the turbo), combustion (more air and fuel), and even exhaust (now driving the turbo) pressures increase the blowby during the rest of the cycle as well. All that air and combustion gases going into the crankcase carries oil mist to your catch can.

    On my F22 (I realize you're not running an F22) engines, good compression numbers have always been in the 180+ range. I'll admit, this has always seemed odd if the compression ratio is 8.8(?), then I would expect numbers more in the 14.7 x 8.8 = 129.4 psi range. 180 implies a compression ratio in the range of 180 / 14.7 = 12.2
    Last edited by Fleetw00d; 09-05-2020, 08:26 AM.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
    That's not good. Have you checked your intercooler piping to see if there is any oil residue in it? Is your dipstick popping out at all on its own? Hopefully its something simple or silly. Just trying to think what would cause the catch can to have a cup of oil in it. Crank pressure and blow by are the only 2 things that are coming to my mind. But you said she isn't smoking.
    Have not. Dip stick is fine, plugs are fine, cold dry compression test is fine (120/100/120/100). No smoke out of head or tail pipe. No difference really, car works great.

    Pretty sure I know what's going on here = blow by one a piston or broken ring.


    Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
    With the high pressure feeding air into the cylinder, wouldn't it tend to push oil back toward the crankcase vs. naturally aspirated that would tend to pull oil past the rings on the intake stroke, so you wouldn't see smoke (at least from burning oil)? The relatively low compression number (assuming he doesn't have really low compression pistons) maybe indicates a fair amount of blowby just pushing oil (mist) out of the crankcase?

    Yaaaa. My tuner said the same thing and you are right. But I don't understand. So can you explain more?

    You're saying the conventional blowby is gases going UP past the rings, into the combustion chamber and into the air in take system (PVC system). But .... I'm pushing oil from the bottom end to the top.

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  • Fleetw00d
    replied
    With the high pressure feeding air into the cylinder, wouldn't it tend to push oil back toward the crankcase vs. naturally aspirated that would tend to pull oil past the rings on the intake stroke, so you wouldn't see smoke (at least from burning oil)? The relatively low compression number (assuming he doesn't have really low compression pistons) maybe indicates a fair amount of blowby just pushing oil (mist) out of the crankcase?

    Leave a comment:


  • Grumpys93
    replied
    That's not good. Have you checked your intercooler piping to see if there is any oil residue in it? Is your dipstick popping out at all on its own? Hopefully its something simple or silly. Just trying to think what would cause the catch can to have a cup of oil in it. Crank pressure and blow by are the only 2 things that are coming to my mind. But you said she isn't smoking.

    Leave a comment:


  • Raf99
    replied
    Well... Sally is sick. She is puking 1 cup of oil in to the catch can for every hour she's driven ..... . The fate of Sally remains unknown.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Originally posted by CyborgGT View Post
    What upper power steering line is that, just USDM H22? I was messing with the accessories for mockup today, making sure I have everything, and that line is something I still need to figure out. Luckily I didn't throw out the low-mileage OEM pump that came with my H!

    For your heat problem, you could utilize some of those bolts on the pump itself to mount a DIY heat shield, though. Bend up some steel and put reflective tape on it or something like that. It probably wouldn't look pretty, but it might keep you from burning through pumps.
    Yaa H22 line with the other end for the F22/cb7 rack. Great article here that talks about the difference in the lines - http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=197288

    But my issue is a combination of :

    1. removing the PS line cooler
    2. re-routing lines
    3. using a after market pump
    4. resistance of the 25+ year old parts


    I will try again this winter, even if I can put this anywhere in the bay it's going to help. The smallest unit I can find (and used last time) is this:
    https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB

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