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Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

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  • Raf99
    replied
    OK. Finally some great news. Sally is running, and running fine! There's still a bit of timing belt whine when you are driving down the road at 2K rpm but maybe it's speaker whine.... I dunno. We'll run it and see how it goes, not worried about it.

    This morning I spent 5+ hours putting Sally back together. Bought some of that OEM tape, bye bye sticky horrible electrical tape. Ug @ that stuff.




    Winter's battle remains...


    New G-Square grill installed



    Took it for a drive and runs fine. Transmission runs fine. No leaks anywhere. Kind of funny the amount of work and effort I put into the car this winter and it looks identical. Not sure if this solved the original original issue but we'll see. So far so good. The list was:

    - Supertech valve step seals install
    - Synchrotech H22 bearing set install
    - Power Steering cooler install
    - Many other miscellaneous parts and pieces


    Now time for a little break. Can't drive her legally on the road because she has no insurance ATM.


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  • Raf99
    replied
    Ok. This was solved. It was the DRL module. You can read about the post I created here asking for help.
    https://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb5/forum/...am-not-working

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Ya... i don't know what's going on here yet. Tried another fuse box and does the same. .......

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  • cp[mike]
    replied
    Having spent forever chasing electrical gremlins like that, I'd just add an aftermarket headlight subharness, triggered by the side that you know is working.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Well...... I hope I'm wrong on all of this, but so far Sally is simply disappointing me. The simply fix of a passenger side headlight not working has turned into a fuse box issue...... i think.
    I was trying to figure out why I was not getting full 12V to that wire. So I figured it was cut along the way.... but digging and digging, I wasn't even getting the 12V at the fuse box!

    All looks fine with the wire...




    So technically we should be able to measure resistance through the fuse box. I know some power leads connect to others but we should still be able to do this. Everything I know and read in the manual tells me that fuse #37 connects to pin#1 for the RED-BLU wire.


    Nothing.....



    Testing on the drivers side high beam fuse / wire location



    Grrr Sally. WTF/. Gone to fine my spare fuse box.........

    Leave a comment:

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