Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

[Raf99]

Well it's the last part & since it wears out ya do want it to be new. Thanks. Say, ya'll agree the front bumper pole should always be opposite of the driver? (LHD / RHD)

[CyborgGT]

The odd-shaped bolt (90016-P5M-000) doesn't wear out. Nothing rides on it. It's the hollowed-out sleeve looking piece that the timing belt tensioner pivots on that wears out. Studying the pictures, isn't the only purpose of that bolt to act as a solid mount/spacer for the balancer belt tensioner pulley to mount to? I think the only way it's going to touch the timing belt tensioner is if the belt snaps or the bolt on the manual timing tensioner fails. Even then, the hole in the top-right corner of the timing tensioner assembly has its own bolt passing through it to limit travel... not that that little bit of travel seems to save the engine when the auto tensioners fail.

And yes, the bumper pole is probably best opposite the driver. The only time I've ever been worried about rubbing my bumper on something is pulling into a parking space next to another car, and the far corner is definitely the harder one to judge.

[Raf99]

That was probably the most nervous I've been cutting a hole. And quite east to mount , just drilled two holes for the bolts of the unit to come through the fiberglass, and only cut the styrofoam part for it to have room.
Tested the up/down functionality and it works fine, the light doesn't like up but not sure on that yet.... I put a 12V source to the wires and didn't turn on...

[CyborgGT]

Is that something you can take apart and just replace an LED?

[cp[mike]]

it's a tiny incandescent bulb like the dashboard. it could be swapped for an LED but the power to it would need to be adjusted appropriately (LEDs dont accept 12v)

[Raf99]

Not sure, but the for sale photos of it showed it working & the details said it was working. I think it works like the intersection lights. It needs two power sources; ie: car on + headlights on. There's two sets of wires coming off the motor, one set I identified for the motor up/down. I assumed the other set (brown connector) was for the light (although it was a large awg wire). I simply gave the power connector 12V and nothing. Soo we'll see when I hook the car up to power I guess.

Trans finally done.

[cp[mike]]

here is a diagram I drew. I was trying to create my own relay box for it. You can disregard the circuit diagram, but the actual pinouts of the pole and switch are accurate.

Also worth noting that the light does not turn on until the pole is fully extended. There is an internal limit switch that turns the light on at the very end.

[Raf99]

That's mighty kind of you and glad you're around! Glad to know the light only comes on once extended. On the diagram, the motor unit does have these 4 wires. which control the up/down motor and the light power. Looking at what powers the harness....

I still can't quite figure out these wires on the part of the harness that goes under the steering column. I can't see this whole setup needing 3 power wires....and 1 ground. Now obviously the two brown Honda molex connectors go in the fuse panel by drivers left foot. One of these connectors goes straight to the switch (in the dash), so i think this would be power from the switch (when pushed) > energizes the circuit to the relay box. The other power wires on that harness are to assist with power once relays are activated, ie: one for the motor and one for the light. But that still leaves me with this "home made" looking white cable... (which connects to the relay box also). This "home made" white cable is fused, another fused cable in a Honda fuse box and these two wires fused implies these two wires provide power to outside cabin. The lone single red positive wire (which connects to switch) is not fused (stays internal). But... not sure if I should just give all 3 of them power and see what happens or.... what is up with that white wire with no molex connector on it.

Any thoughts?

[Raf99]

So I'm pretty sure I found the last timing adjuster bolt in North America for the H22 engine. Tried about 15 sites, Honda's in the US & Can, online etc. No go. Found a guy who was selling a H22 block (bare) on ebay but had the one bolt I needed in it. Was the only bolt left in the bare block too. Wrote the guy, asked him to sell just the bolt and he said no. But then said yes. But then he posted the bolt on ebay for $200. :\ ...... I replied with a bid for $80. He replied with a re-big for $40. lol. So i bought it.

On the other hand, I tried the new timing belt with the manual tensioner and it was super easy to get on. 155 teeth on the belt. But the old belt is impossible to get on! (and always was). It's 155 teeth too though. Almost like one belt feels like leather and the new one feels like rubber..
I read about this online a lot. People saying the belt used with the manual tensioner was always too tight to get on. Or the manual tensioner made it impossible to get the belt on.

[cp[mike]]

the manual tensioner pulley is larger diameter than the automatic one. as long as its still within its adjustment range after the belt is set in place, nothing to worry about! just less leeway/play for actually getting it installed.

which timing bolt in particular are you referring to? that is no longer available?

[Raf99]

the manual tensioner pulley is larger diameter than the automatic one. as long as its still within its adjustment range after the belt is set in place, nothing to worry about! just less leeway/play for actually getting it installed.

which timing bolt in particular are you referring to? that is no longer available?

90016-P5M-000 - Honda tensioner bolt .

[Raf99]

OK. So wrote guy on ebay who was selling a block that had this bolt, got him to sell me said bolt. This is the last bolt of this kind for sale on all of earth. ha....



Clean it up


It goes here... and like CyborgGT said the bearing doesn't even touch this thing.. but I can see how it's a fail safe too.



Make sure to use the proper balance shafts bearing. New one is the green one. I thought there was some interference here but nope.... all good. Just waiting on a water pump and I'll put this all back together. The current water pump has a broken corner "nut" and it accepts a bolt which holds the plastic cover on. Always annoyed me that it was broke.

[SSMAccord]

Good job cleaning up that bolt and getting this back together.

[Raf99]

Thank . Water pump arrived, buuut wrong part. Didn't know H22s had different size wheels on the pumps. Anyways, ordered another....

[CyborgGT]

Do you know if it was an H22A1 vs A4 discrepancy, or what?

[Raf99]

Not sure, from what I could tell it was a JDM vs. USD thing. (H22A vs. H22).

Got this from a friend the other day, with pigtails! Thanks Jacob! Sally has 368,000km and this cluster is 324,000km, kind of close!