domesticated : 1993 Accord SE

[SanJoCaF22DrAcc]

Motherfukers!!!! Sorry but this makes me really upset.

[Domesticated]

Motherfukers!!!! Sorry but this makes me really upset.

Haha, I'm pretty upset too.

[Domesticated]

more bad news my Greddy lip got torn off by the snow today. I am so sad...

[Domesticated]

Another hit a run. My car is getting torn up!



This is getting old. To add insult to injury my oil cooler o-ring exploded today. I realized it when I got home from school and found a line of oil trailing down the road. Good thing is there was still oil gushing out. Bad news is the car was driven about 3 miles a quart low. Never go over 2k on my morning drive so it should be fine. Replaced it along with the oil and filter. In the snow when it was less than 10 degrees out. So damn cold. But hey that little leak I've had for years should finally stop now.

[keepinitclean]

People who do hit and runs need to be shot. Some people need to learn to respect other people's property/pride!!!!

Hope you get that oil issue fixed asap too man! Best of luck!!

[Domesticated]

I hope it's fixed. It wasn't leaking while idling. But the o-ring should hold pressure. I meant to say I drove three miles on one quart of oil. Just needs to last another year. I'm rebuilding the engine in the next year.

[Domesticated]

Well my car has been dormant for a while. Though I did just put my summer wheels and tires back on. Never needs any repairs and runs like a champ. I've also been broke. Can't wait for this winter when I can really dig in. I start my new job June 2 and I'll be a lot of money. My finances should stabilize after a few months on the job and then I'm buying a new car so the CB is no longer a DD and I can park it and pull the engine. But for anyone who cares I haven't forgotten about her. Just patiently waiting!

[laz93se]

Well my car has been dormant for a while. Though I did just put my summer wheels and tires back on. Never needs any repairs and runs like a champ. I've also been broke. Can't wait for this winter when I can really dig in. I start my new job June 2 and I'll be a lot of money. My finances should stabilize after a few months on the job and then I'm buying a new car so the CB is no longer a DD and I can park it and pull the engine. But for anyone who cares I haven't forgotten about her. Just patiently waiting!

that's the right attitude, I've been trying to finish my car forever. I just don't have 10 credit cards maxed out on car parts, and I am not rich either.

[Domesticated]

Still not really any updates except I'm running a P28 now. Fixed my drivability issues for those following the thread. Just waiting to get to MI and get some money saved up. First it's new tires and then I want to get a built trans from Synchrotech. No idea what I'm gonna do after that.

[laz93se]

Still not really any updates except I'm running a P28 now. Fixed my drivability issues for those following the thread. Just waiting to get to MI and get some money saved up. First it's new tires and then I want to get a built trans from Synchrotech. No idea what I'm gonna do after that.

go boost, hehehehehehehe

[Domesticated]

go boost, hehehehehehehe

Possibly. The FRM sleeves make it a bit more costly. I want to pay off all my credit card debt this summer (7k) so I spend the next year building my credit up from the 660 I'm at right now. I want to buy a house next summer, but probably the summer after. I have an excell file that shows many different builds and the cost. Just doing a minimum build with a built bottom end including the trans, ECU, and everything involved it would be about 8k. I just have to see how spending goes with the new life and see how I can save.

[laz93se]

Your just about right on the cost that you have estimated. Mahle pistons work great with frm sleeves, if you can do the majority of the build yourself you can save money.

You credit score will go up just by paying down you debt, or you can transfer some of it to a new credit card with no interest.

[Domesticated]

I have considered using the Mahle setup. I'm not worried about the sleeve strength, I know they're super strong. But honestly it's only a few hundred extra to go with Bisi sleeves and pistons and if I plan on spending that much might as well go with it.

[Domesticated]

The reason I went to college was so I could afford to build cars. My last build took years to build a junkyard turbo setup and I decided that was too long. Well it's 5 years later, I graduate in a week with a BA in Mechanical Engineering. I have a job waiting June 2 and and then spend about a month or two getting my financial ducks in a row and I'm going to buy a new car in that time so the CB can go under the knife.

But I'm in a bit of a conundrum. I love the way my car handles and with the exception of the current trans it does fairly well in autox and short road course. It's time to build the car to a new level and I can't decide what I should do. I've priced everything out and I want to be done by next spring giving me the winter to collect parts and work.

I want boost, I'm fairly sure... I track the car and I love it. Absolutely. But the car is FWD so if I go boost I can really autox as well as if it was N/A. But if I go N/A I'm pretty limited on power and I love boost. But I also love the personality of the H.

N/A might as well go super high compression with a rare set of Cosworth pistons. Which can be found on the market right now, not an issue. Then I need cams. I can do the headwork myself. Do I buy from Bisi? I'm not a fan of all the customer feedback I've seen over the last few years. OBX throttle bodies will do good with a bit of work. My exhaust is suffecient and I get to keep my Feel's header and Apexi exhaust. The car will be N/A and run like a raped ape for being an N/A FWD sedan. But will 250`ish be enough? For racing absolutely. But what happens when I want to step up against my buddies who are all professional racers with SRTs, boosted BMWs and Porshes?

So if I boost, how much? Mild with 300hp? Darton dry sleeves with a set of rods/pistons of eBay would be just fine. Then again so would Mahle pistons with the FRM liners. So the car would be more fun, still agile on short courses and autox because of the relatively unchanged drivability. My slightly bigger front brakes and HAWK pads will do just fine. I have 4 lug still with a 215 and an R compound will do great, since it won't be a DD anymore. I also want to get a build trans by Synchrotech. I know we have trans that hold up to a lot of well behaved power so it should suffice. But I will be living in Motor City and Hondas need to be able to keep up with everyone else. And puff their chest a bit to keep the Mustangs and Camaros at bay. Plus on a road course high power is easier to control.

More boost? Built bottom end 500hp. Now I need real sleeves. Not really an issue, money shouldn't be a problem. I might be able to save a bit of money, but a Benson block would be awesome because he include a shit ton of experience plus things like polishing and balancing. I would just clean up the head a bit. Now I need a serious clutch. Is my drivetrain still going to be good. I know guys drag race. How well would 500 hold up on continuous track days? Bigger radiator for sure. I definately need more rubber. So do I get custom wheels from Work or SSR so I can keep the 4 lug and be able to get a wider wheel? Or do I go 5 lug and run OE 17x8's or get something bigger. 235's can be made to work with fenders. But is that really enough for traction? IDK. COuld I do some custom fender work and go wider? I also have no idea what the implications on the handling would be with wider tires. I know scrub radius would be greatly affected. R compounds are a definite.

If I'm spending that much money on a block, why not go all the way. A well built block for 400-500 will usually handle 700-800 too. The cost addition is really the turbo size and clutch. But at that power level the trans is going to be a serious issue. Do I risk the regular gears exploding that Synchrotech polished and cleaned up? MFactory has a gear set for 700 wheel, but it's an additional 3k. That's a lot to invest in a trans on a FWD car. I definitely need more rubber for that much power. Going to need some serious rubber, wheels, and bigger brakes.

I don't want to waste time and money buying the wrong parts. I'm basically going to save up money for a month or two and then pull the trigger and start buy some parts. I should be able to buy everything by October or November depending on the route I take. But I have no idea what I want. I want it all. Big power, like Viper killing power, but I still want to track it without getting slower lap times because of the power issue. It has to be street drivable. Regardless of the build I will be trolling Woodward. In it's current condition it got a lot of attention when I was in Detroit last summer.

Any input? What do you guys think? Maybe suggestions. I just want to get this discussion started because according to the schedule I've made for myself I planned on buying tires the end of June and possible the transmission too. So my first problem is what tires. I have 7" wide wheels and I will be running 17's. So do I buy another set of 215s R compounds for my current wheels, do I buy 225s and upgrade to 8" wide wheels later? I need new tires asap. Or do I just park it right away and buy a new car asap and just wait until I can get bigger wheels if that's the route I take?

[XCRN]

It's a paradox. Your paragraph there reminds me of the story If You Give a Mouse a Cookie.

Doing a decent NA build with 250 to 300 whp would be nice but I think for your applications, as would mine would be, to focus more on suspension. You have a decent suspension now, but there is always room for improvement. And if the transmission needs to be fixed, might as well upgrade it with carbon synchros for when you do up the power. This kind of sums up my plans, an H, fix my transmission, and a lot of suspension work.