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bassrock234 : 1990 Accord EX

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    Wow that control arm angle is massive
    NEW CB



    old Darkcloud : 1990 Accord EX MRT

    new
    DARKCLOUD : 90 ACCORD EX MRT

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      I going for an H22A just as soon as tax time comes around. The holes had to be cut to ride as low as I do. My function and forms are bottomed out all the way around. The front is still pre-loaded but its bottomed out in the lower mount. The rear is also still pre-loaded and I took 1 collar out. You would be fine with the camber kit as long as you don't go to low. Mine have actually tapped the hood before. But it's worth it for how good it rides being this low.
      Last edited by bassrock234; 12-02-2012, 07:08 PM.

      I wish I could trade my heart for an extra liver, just so I can drink more and care less.

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        Maybe someone should call up Fat Four Customs and see if they can put together some drop spindles for CB's? That way you can roll slammed and still have some suspension travel.


        Purchased From: busak87, GunRunner, Bruce Banner, Itstatcb7kid707, tJoods, DannyD


        The Caravan 2015
        MRT:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=180919

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          It still has a good bit a travel. A drop spindle would help with the angle of things though, or even a shorter oem spindle so the upper control arm doesn't angle up so much. I've looked into making a bump steer kit before with heim joints. I dont imagine it would be very hard but I haven't gone under and measured anything. Being this low, everything points up down below, axles, tie rods, etc. But I haven't noticed any binding or excessive wear of anything yet. Then again most of my parts are a year or less old.

          I wish I could trade my heart for an extra liver, just so I can drink more and care less.

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            Originally posted by bassrock234 View Post
            I going for an H22A just as soon as tax time comes around. The holes had to be cut to ride as low as I do. My function and forms are bottomed out all the way around. The front is still pre-loaded but its bottomed out in the lower mount. The rear is also still pre-loaded and I took 1 collar out. You would be fine with the camber kit as long as you don't go to low. Mine have actually tapped the hood before. But it's worth it for how good it rides being this low.
            But at that angle youre asking for your upper balljoints to snap.

            Oh and you do know that the functions will blow out soon due to the collar being removed right. Just ketting you know man
            NEW CB



            old Darkcloud : 1990 Accord EX MRT

            new
            DARKCLOUD : 90 ACCORD EX MRT

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              why is that? no travel was lost, the rear is still fully pre-loaded

              I wish I could trade my heart for an extra liver, just so I can drink more and care less.

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                You are aloowing the strut to travel more then it should. I seen it happen before when people want that extra bit and remove the collar 3-5 months later theyre bouncing like they have cut springs and blown shocks.

                Yes you may think its fine now and I'm crazy and dont know what I'm talking about.

                But people have blown out the function and forms and D2's by doing so.
                NEW CB



                old Darkcloud : 1990 Accord EX MRT

                new
                DARKCLOUD : 90 ACCORD EX MRT

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                  I guess we'll find out hahaha. I dont see how though, the lower mount is completely seperate from the shock as far as the gas chamber and piston goes. The only way you would loose travel or bottom out the strut or anything would be to take the pre-load off, or cut the springs.

                  I wish I could trade my heart for an extra liver, just so I can drink more and care less.

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                    anyone else have insight on removing the collars?

                    I wish I could trade my heart for an extra liver, just so I can drink more and care less.

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                      Darkcloud is right, remove the collar and you go out of engineered piston travel range. It may work ok until you hit a big pot hole and then blow the strut.

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                        but the spring is still in the same spot, same pre-load, same travel. Only the lower mount has raised allowing the whole assembly to be mounted lower. I can see that happening with coilovers where the height isn't adjusted independently of spring pre-load, but not with mine. So the piston would travel no more than it did before right? The only thing that has changed is the overall length of the entire assembly.

                        I wish I could trade my heart for an extra liver, just so I can drink more and care less.

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                          I'll make a thread in beginner tech and performance so we can get more opinions.

                          I wish I could trade my heart for an extra liver, just so I can drink more and care less.

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                            Did you take the strut apart and cut the shaft to move the piston up? No ... Then yes it will bottom out.



                            Take a look at above, tell me how shortening the length doesn't affect piston travel.

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                              your diagram is incorrect and displays a strut or shock where the lower mount is one with the gas chamber and piston. My coilovers are not like that, the strut assembly is completely seperate from the lower mount. Imagine that picture you have there, but with the lower mount cut off and welded higher (just an example) Would the piston not have the exact same amount of room to travel as before?

                              I wish I could trade my heart for an extra liver, just so I can drink more and care less.

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                                I can make a crude drawing in paint if it helps

                                I wish I could trade my heart for an extra liver, just so I can drink more and care less.

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