wildBill83 : 1993 Accord SE

[wildBill83]

After the holidays, and hopefully I got my H22 in my car by then. How is the idle surge? Did you ever get it figured out?

I think a photo shoot down in my neck of the woods would be good fun. I can use a DSLR for some high quality shots. Did you submit your car to the calendar? It is def worthy!

EDIT: Follow up on oil pressure sending unit, the Valuecraft is working so far without a problem.

[blackenwkn]

What's up buddy when we gonna do another meet?

[wildBill83]

This last one was mounted at the end of a hose, though, so perhaps the heat from the engine block is an issue or such.

Got a photo? I have only seen them screwed directly into the block. The end of a hose part confuses me... Thanks for the valuable info though.

EDIT:I just brought the Duralast one back and got a Valuecraft for $2 cheaper. It has 6±3psi stamped on the housing... I'll keep post up if it fixes the problem or not. If not I'll be waiting for my rockauto order Beck/Arnley part. Airtex/Wells makes Duralast parts, so I did not order that one from rockauto.

[reklipz]

I replaced my oil pressure switch to fix a slow leak on the back side of my motor, but the oil pressure switch seems to be faulty right out of the box. I used a Duralast switch. I'm curious if anyone else has ran into this problem. The oil leak is gone but my oil light is on constant.

I'm going to order either a Beck/Arnley or Airtex/Wells from rockauto and see if it fixes the problem

I've had this exact problem. The PO had a Duralast switch fail on him, no leak though. I replaced it with another, and this one failed while also leaking from the housing. I got another one via warranty, and it seems to be holding up. This one had the "9 PSI +- 6" marking (or was it "6 PSI +/- 3"... I don't remember...). This last one was mounted at the end of a hose, though, so perhaps the heat from the engine block is an issue or such.

[wildBill83]

Oil Pressure Switch

I replaced my oil pressure switch to fix a slow leak on the back side of my motor, but the oil pressure switch seems to be faulty right out of the box. I used a Duralast switch. I'm curious if anyone else has ran into this problem. The oil leak is gone but my oil light is on constant.

I'm going to order either a Beck/Arnley or Airtex/Wells from rockauto and see if it fixes the problem

[Daheavyking]

Coupe looks great!!! Good luck on your 5 speed swap if you go that route.

[wildBill83]

Well, I might pickup a complete H23A1 for cheap today ... key word is might... There is also a prelude shell in my area for sell for cheap. I'm really on the fence about buying them both and having a prelude for less than $1000...

Man decisions are hard...

EDIT:
Decided to pass, the deal sounded sketchy... It would be fun to have the H23A1 as a spare or maybe build a H23A1 frank VTEC, but I'm not built of $$... The thought also crossed my mind of building another DD with the motor... But oh well...

EDIT again... I just bought the H23 intake manifold and plenum ... damn money burning a hole in my pocket...

[wildBill83]

I tried to store my last motor by putting oil in the motor then rolling the motor over on the stand 360* to circulate the oil and cover surfaces then drain the oil. The oil did not cover all surfaces and my nearly completed H22A motor rusted over the period of 10 years. I was later told that I should buy engine fogging oil and spray it on all exposed internal parts. This time I'm also going to rent an environmentally controlled storage area too.


http://www.americassyntheticoil.com/?p=446

I was trying to build a complete motor, but I'm going to have to use parts from my F22A6 to complete this motor, unless I can gather the last few parts in scrap yards. To buy the parts new from Honda and Autozone I could almost buy a H22A.

[H311RA151N]

I'm going to engine fog my F22A6 and mothball it.

What does that mean? Ive never heard of it before.

And the H22A4 should be awesome! Looks like your getting shit done and not messing around!

[wildBill83]

So in two-three weeks my H22A4 will be fully converted and ready to swap in. I'm going to engine fog my F22A6 and mothball it. I'm trying to gather the last components together to complete the motor being that it was missing everything in the first place.

On a side note, I should have the Arduino TCU ready for final install around the same time. I shorted out another Arduino last night on accident, I really need to put it in a project box where it won't get shorted. I'm taking the Arduino off of my 3D printer tonight to continue fixing my code and adding to it.

This is if the holidays don't get in the way...

[cb7_with_snail]

Looking GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD!!!!

[wildBill83]

I ordered some random electronics components from mouser today. I'm building my own AFR guage and I'm going to place it where my clock is. This will be a nice tool once I get the H22A4 installed so I can adjust my FPR accordingly.

I may post up the DIY on this. It is super simple. I plan to use the clock housing and possbily the LCD if it is a standard LCD type. If not I'll use a typical bar graph.

This is not my diagram, but it is what I have on order to install:

http://www.scirocco.org/tech/misc/afgauge/af.html

[wildBill83]

From page 3:

Here they are NIB:


Here they are freshly installed with the protective install grease still on the rims:


Thanks for the well wishes on the swap, I'm going to need it!

I like the two of the old iron bridge the best as well.

[H311RA151N]

I found a pic of those rims without tires. I see what your sayin. The lip blends in with the tire.

I like the pic where your standing off to the side of the bridge and the car is on the bridge the best.

Good luck with the swap!

[wildBill83]

What size tires are you running? They look like xxx/70/xx size tires. Do they rub the fender wells when you turn?

It's an optical illusion, the shiney part of the rim is inboard from the lip about an inch or two.

I'm running 16x7 Kazera cast rims with 205/55-R16 Hankook Ventus V12 tires.

No rubbing what so ever. Even with the car 1/2" lower still no rubbing.