cp[mike] : 1993 Accord EX

[sonikaccord]

Braking feel remains the same until the tire locks up. The abs system is an isolated system until active.

Maybe Mike has a different view

[cp[mike]]

Braking feel remains the same until the tire locks up. The abs system is an isolated system until active.

Maybe Mike has a different view

nope you are correct, Braking is exactly the same / unaffected, until the point where the tire locks up. At that point is when the ABS would begin stepping in to override the brakes by releasing/reapplying the pressure. Now that the computer is gone, that action never happens and the wheel just stays locked up.

I'm also not really looking forward to the wiring. One step at a time...

progress is looking great! Just curious, does pulling the abs computer give you any ill effects on braking? My abs light will randomly go on and off. When its on, the car brakes fine, but when its off the pedal feels like crap. I want to disable it but dont have time to do the lines till winter. Thanks man

Thanks! One of my wheel sensors was damaged and my light would always come on as soon as I hit the brakes for the first time. ABS never worked because of it anyway, now it won't work at all no matter what. I will also be removing the fuse from the ABS fusebox in the engine bay.

Not sure why your brakes feel like crap when the light is on - the ABS shouldn't be interfering at that point, but I guess you never know. You can always just give it a try - try unplugging the ABS box and relays rather than removing it. Or the fuse in the engine bay. Then give the car a ride and see how it feels.

[Theos92VR4]

nope you are correct, Braking is exactly the same / unaffected, until the point where the tire locks up. At that point is when the ABS would begin stepping in to override the brakes by releasing/reapplying the pressure. Now that the computer is gone, that action never happens and the wheel just stays locked up.

I'm also not really looking forward to the wiring. One step at a time...



Thanks! One of my wheel sensors was damaged and my light would always come on as soon as I hit the brakes for the first time. ABS never worked because of it anyway, now it won't work at all no matter what. I will also be removing the fuse from the ABS fusebox in the engine bay.

Not sure why your brakes feel like crap when the light is on - the ABS shouldn't be interfering at that point, but I guess you never know. You can always just give it a try - try unplugging the ABS box and relays rather than removing it. Or the fuse in the engine bay. Then give the car a ride and see how it feels.

thanks man! the brakes are awesome actually when the light IS on, but when its off the pedal makes that annoying "crunch" sound. Thanks again for all your help

[J-specCb4]

good to see you rolling on this thing mike. im sort of playing with mine again a bit here and there. mine is ROUGH from sitting for 6+ years now. jealous of how unmolested this coupe is.

[EdgarCb7]

good to see you rolling on this thing mike. im sort of playing with mine again a bit here and there. mine is ROUGH from sitting for 6+ years now. jealous of how unmolested this coupe is.

you got that right Not even dirty under the seats.. I found ALL SORTs of stuff under mine..

Super clean car. Clean stance now too.

I love the burgundy crap color for some reason though. Maybe because my coupe has it, Idk

Cant wait to see your new stuff though.
You always do the CB justice. Thanks for the inspiration again, cp[mike]

[cp[mike]]

making a little progress. i actually have been spending more time sorting out boxes of parts waiting to be installed, rather than actually installing them! things were split across multiple boxes during the move, and certain pieces are finally getting married back to their matching hardware and such. more progress and pictures.

anyway in the meantime, here is a picture of my new center caps. They are from a 1st gen CRV LX, from the steelies. They are chromed steel with an embossed/stamped logo, and are extended out enough to fit over the front axle nuts. Finally found some "H" center caps for these things! Stumbled upon them in a junkyard and figured I would give them a shot.

note that for the picture, they are not fully seated/snapped in. I want to finish cleaning them up before I put them all on permanently (they fit tight)

[cp[mike]]

drew up this little infographic today...

[F22Chris]

I think the red interior goes well the the whole of the car myself. Those wheels are sick. Simple and clean, and the gunmetal color is awesome.

[cp[mike]]

hmmmmmmmmmmm

[CyborgGT]

"Hmmm" indeed. I can't tell how big or small that one is... you looking to get competitive at Bandimere or will it be something more sensible for the street?

[cp[mike]]

"Hmmm" indeed. I can't tell how big or small that one is... you looking to get competitive at Bandimere or will it be something more sensible for the street?

The turbo is a Precision 6262 (T3), with an .82 A/R exhaust housing. Not really that small, but not huge. I have a lot of the supporting mods already, might as well put them to good use.

The goal is to have it be "scary" on the street, and "fun" at Bandimere, while being acceptably drivable at lower RPMs without boosting everywhere. Always wanted to try my hand at boost, and figured go big or go home...

[laz93se]

Very nice , I see you got bit by the boost bug too. Like you said go big or go home, are you building the block?

[cp[mike]]

Very nice , I see you got bit by the boost bug too. Like you said go big or go home, are you building the block?

It's not as complex as I used to think, years back when I was first learning about working on these things. My interest was sparked when I was speaking with a random Honda owner at a local meet recently, I told him about my high compression Euro-R and he commented, "didn't you notice everybody around here is boosted? at this altitude the increased compression won't make much of a difference over stock. you really need to cram the air in there." and it got me thinking. Realized the coupe would be a perfect candidate for a boost build. FINALLY did some research about how they work, and this time around it was like "oh, yeah, that makes sense" haha. I'm sure there will be a ton to learn along the way, but I feel very comfortable with beginning this adventure.

I didn't really want to mention this until I actually have it in my hands, but I'm working with a seller to purchase an "H24" - bored H22 block, H23 crank, sleeved. Lower compression and should hold a lot of air without popping. Debating if I should use the "stock" head that comes on it, or if I should put my Euro-R head on with the enlarged runners and intake valves... Leaning toward the Euro-R head so it can be paired with the matching intake manifold with the big throttle body. Typically I would prefer to do a build myself but having it pre-assembled by a shop and getting it at a discounted price is worth it. I will end up taking a couple things apart to verify some clearances and to see how well it was put together. Anyway, more news on the motor when (and if) that becomes a concrete deal.

Not sure what transmission to use, I suspect I will start with my T2T4 as it comes with LSD. I'll just likely have to skip a gear or two since the gearing is pretty short. But I will keep my stock F22 trans on hand (60k miles!) and maybe get an LSD installed into it someday. Or take the 5th gear out and install it into the T2T4. Not sure lol

[CyborgGT]

A while ago I was looking into the Jackson supercharger, and was told people even have trouble making power with those at this altitude. Still, I'm wanting to try my hand at all-motor & better trans gearing. I've taken my stock RSX up Pikes Peak (just over 14k feet) a couple times, and I can't say I remember feeling a real difference vs climbing hills closer to 5/6k feet. But yeah, unless you're crazy light, all the real fast drag guys are turbo. Come to think of it, I don't remember seeing much natural aspiration at all on the strip at this past Tuner Mayhem.

[cp[mike]]

A while ago I was looking into the Jackson supercharger, and was told people even have trouble making power with those at this altitude. Still, I'm wanting to try my hand at all-motor & better trans gearing. I've taken my stock RSX up Pikes Peak (just over 14k feet) a couple times, and I can't say I remember feeling a real difference vs climbing hills closer to 5/6k feet. But yeah, unless you're crazy light, all the real fast drag guys are turbo. Come to think of it, I don't remember seeing much natural aspiration at all on the strip at this past Tuner Mayhem.

I think it's more in comparison to sea level in the north east. There is height variation here, but everything is still much higher up overall.

No shame in an N/A build, I just have done it before and I didn't want to just drop the Euro-R back into the car as-is. I was going to get the nitrous setup installed again, but that felt kind of passe'. So turbo it is.

I actually have the JRSC pulley setup, and an Eaton M62 from a junkyard, with some custom manifold mounting work it wouldn't be that hard to install. But a turbo would be more efficient in the long run and actually be easier to install.