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CyborgGT : 1993 Accord EX wagon

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  • Raf99
    replied
    Soo my wheels also hit the ESP traction bar at full lock. I thought I was the only one. Using 17x9 rims on 215/40/17 (+38).
    And the PS foam is an air leak in the system. I found the ETCR vid I was talking about. He had a leaky PS pump on his Honda Oddsey and rebuilt the pump. After the rebuild he gets foam in the fluid (31:26) due to air being introduced into the fluid. But he never did find out how or where the air was being introduced and suspected it was the pump o-ring somewhere / somehow. Even with Honda o-rings, same issue. He thinks is the suction side / the o-ring for the reservoir connector. He bought a new pump and fixed the issue, so the issue was the pump the whole time but he took it apart several times with different o-rings etc. , couldn't solve it. May want to save yourself a headache and just get a new pump, some may disagree with this advice and tell ya to rebuild of course...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArxN8T_6PbI

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Thanks! I'm feeling good about the progress made so far.

    The power steering issue seems to have worked itself out. Tonight I wiped down everything in that front corner of the bay around the reservoir where it's been leaking since I bought the car, bled the crap out of the system, and drove it around the storage facility a bit. There's still some really light, surface-level foaming, but it's lessened a ton and I'm not seeing any new drips anywhere, so a good bleed must have been all it needed. I don't even remember looking at the fluid level at the time of purchase, so it may have just been overfilled. Once the engine's out and I detail the bay in preparation for the H (... ), I'll be sure to look for any evidence of bad connections, pinholes in hoses, etc.

    *ED. - Alright, nevermind, it's still foaming over a bit. There's so much oil residue all over this engine bay, though, including behind the p/s pulley. I'll just go ahead with the H swap, with a new H pump on top of the bay detail/inspection, and see if that stops it. Also, I discovered that my wheels are rubbing on the traction bar radius rods at full lock. So much for getting them powder coated
    Last edited by CyborgGT; 02-02-2021, 02:49 AM.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    Good work solving that issue. I am surprised that the small confluence of those parts caused that kind of driveability issue. Good to know that kind of stuff for others who might face the issue.

    Also, the carpet turned out great!

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  • CyborgGT
    replied


    Clutch issue solved, manual conversion done and dusted! It was a combination of a couple things: the bushing above (turns out my newer pedal arm did have one, it was just worn thin), and the pin it goes around, which was still from the bad pedal arm, being worn and slightly bent. I didn't notice the pin itself was bad until tonight, but I had a straight spare on hand.

    I'm guessing that first bad pedal/pin combo was probably why that particular car was in the junkyard; maybe the owner couldn't figure out why their clutch wouldn't disengage and gave up on the whole car. A bushing gone bad led to constantly pressing too hard on the pedal to compensate, until the hole stretched out enough to mess with the master cylinder's travel.
    Last edited by CyborgGT; 01-31-2021, 01:15 AM.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
    That looks nice man. Quite the color mix, won't see that anywhere else haha. Also looks like you could sleep on that floor. A lot of work right there. The foam in the PS res means there's an air leak in the system I believe. There's different ETCG videos etc. on them trying to fix this, some never do and simply get a new pump. Assuming you had to top off the fluid implies there's a leak somewhere? And the wire..hmm not sure. Doubt it's for the japan version which has the 1 power function, and it's not the seatbelt. What's the color of the wires I wonder...
    My interior now matches the color scheme of a bad bruise! Haha. The P/S system's been leaking from under the reservoir since I got it, but I never noticed any foaming (maybe it was just too low on fluid before?). I'll go through the whole system when I swap in the H. The main reason I had to top it off is from when I did the transmission swap and unplugged the VSS; lost a bit of fluid then.


    Originally posted by hiptech View Post
    Interesting color choice... and you didn't like the blue interior why?
    The interior is actually red from factory. For one, the original carpet was too heavily stained, and two, it was just way too much red. I wanted something to break it up. Eventually it'll be either dyed black or replaced with a black carpet, but I figured this blue one I found in the junkyard was clean enough and dark enough to use for now. I'm definitely not a fan of a full blue interior, but the red's grown on me.
    Last edited by CyborgGT; 01-27-2021, 08:34 PM.

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  • hiptech
    replied
    Interesting color choice... and you didn't like the blue interior why?

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  • Raf99
    replied
    That looks nice man. Quite the color mix, won't see that anywhere else haha. Also looks like you could sleep on that floor. A lot of work right there. The foam in the PS res means there's an air leak in the system I believe. There's different ETCG videos etc. on them trying to fix this, some never do and simply get a new pump. Assuming you had to top off the fluid implies there's a leak somewhere? And the wire..hmm not sure. Doubt it's for the japan version which has the 1 power function, and it's not the seatbelt. What's the color of the wires I wonder...

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Interesting... P/S fluid had to be topped off again after the trans swap, and is now foaming over. I did use OEM Honda fluid.




    Anyway:






    I am loving the hell out of this. A little contrast has made a massive change to the feel of this car's interior.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    This weekend's project: putting that new carpet in.


    Icky.






    Found hints of rust and moisture. Since the wagon is completely the wrong chassis to choose for an all-out performance car, I don't care so much about its weight. Therefore, at some point, I'll be removing this factory deadening material and go all out with good aftermarket stuff to help make the car more comfortable. We'll see then how bad it is underneath.






    French currency? Cool looking coin, and it's even period-correct!




    Seriously, how does this much dirt cake up under the carpet?




    After a vacuum...




    After some scrubbing... with engine degreaser. I wasn't after a full detail today. Given that I'm working out of a storage unit with too little room to spare outside of the car, and in the cold, I don't have the time to keep my interior disassembled for as long as that would take. Another job for when the sound deadening is upgraded. I got most of the dirt out, though, and that was the main smell this car had; no smoke or old food, it just smelled dusty.




    Anyone know what this connector under the passenger seat is for? It's wired up, but doesn't plug into anything. Those rare power seats, maybe?




    I took a picture of this carpet tag I noticed, thinking I'd look up the company and maybe find another source for NOS carpet. Turns out the large, multi-country manufacturer of our carpets went under a while back after some accounting fraud scandal...




    These are the last of the photos until tomorrow. I actually finished putting the interior back together, but it got dark by that point and I wanted to photograph the contrast of the blue and burgundy, so I left three of the seats unbolted and tucked the car back into the garage for the night. I'll show that tomorrow. The camera seems to be making the blue more vivid than it is in person, but I'm surprised at how good this has turned out. Some black material (the long-term two tone goal) for the main door inserts might just come much sooner than originally planned.



    Last edited by CyborgGT; 01-25-2021, 12:57 AM.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    It's set somewhere in that pedal free play area after the rod is fully extended out of the master cylinder with the pedal released. I think before I left it last night, I threaded the rod back into that pedal U-bracket a bit just to remove most of the even more annoying free play before applied pressure actually starts acting on the cylinder.

    ... hope that made sense.

    *ED. - or maybe it was the cruise control switch I screwed in to take up the free-play slack. Either way, the rod and pedal can't be extended out of the master cylinder any more than I have them. A bushing is supposed to be in that CMC pin hole as well, so that's on order. Fingers crossed it makes enough of a difference, even though that thing's got to be incredibly thin...
    Last edited by CyborgGT; 01-24-2021, 10:22 AM.

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  • Raf99
    replied
    So ya, you're master adjustment is out. The pedal should go to the floor for disengangement and as the manual states the engagement point should be close to the floor too. (check your manual, you know what diagram I'm referring to)
    Now some vehicles (Ford Ranger or a tractor) the disengage/engage point is far higher. I've personally never understood this as you have to hover your leg/pedal mid way before the catch point. I prefer my catch point near the floor. So where's your master cylinder adjusted to? (the rod / bolt that goes through the pedal assembly under the dash)

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  • CyborgGT
    replied



    So the trans conversion is finally driving. At first, there was an issue with the clutch pedal/master cylinder travel not allowing the clutch to disengage. The car could still be driven like that, but you basically had to work around not having a clutch pedal. The hole that the MC rod pins into was a bit elongated in the first pedal I had picked up, so today I swapped in a different one and I think it's solved the issue...




    But is it normal for these cars to have to completely floor the clutch for full disengagement? My experience with manual cars is pretty limited, but a friend who's owned several manual cars of different makes said he's not used to having to press the pedal flat to the floor. Compared to the other manual cars I've driven, it does feel a bit odd to me as well. Adjustment for the master cylinder rod is maxed out, and bleeding the system further (he has a vacuum bleeder) isn't changing anything.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    I ran into some tedious mini-jobs getting it done, but the swap was actually easier than I thought it would be before I started.

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  • SSMAccord
    replied
    The carpet looks great. And it seems like the manual swap was a breeze also.

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  • CyborgGT
    replied
    I've been thinking about it for the RSX, since it's been so long since I've detailed that car's interior and it really needs it. Maybe it's something to do to both cars at once this summer.

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