Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

CyborgGT : 1993 Accord EX wagon

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
    Say, you ever figure out the belt walk issue?
    I'm pretty sure it was the H23 tensioner system's over-tightening of the belt that was doing it. We'll see in a few days when I can get out to the engine and put the H22 parts on. Aside from the KS Tuned parts, I got everything else new from Honda. *ED. - oh, and KS Tuned says that the metal bushing that the manual tensioner pulley pivots on (#24 here) wears out over time and allows the pulley to sag, which is a common contributor to belt walk.

    Fleetw00d, I PM'd you, thanks!
    Last edited by CyborgGT; 10-04-2020, 03:06 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fleetw00d
    replied
    I've got a half shaft if you want it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Raf99
    replied
    I use my power folding mirrors every time I drive the car Say, you ever figure out the belt walk issue?

    Leave a comment:


  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Finally! Been waiting for these parts before posting my progress here. I'll have the engine assembly completed this weekend short of small things like vacuum hoses. Interestingly, the tensioner pulley with walk blocker installed was cheaper from KS Tuned than getting the pulley by itself from Majestic. 3D-printed cam gear holder is a new freebee they throw in when you buy their more expensive parts; nice detail in design for such a simple piece.




    Still need to fund:
    - Junkyard transmission
    - Fluids
    - ECU w/Hondata and basemap to confirm engine runs as it should at home
    - ST rear sway bar so the exhaust can be routed to allow for it.
    - Get the full exhaust system welded
    - Dyno tune
    - Register the car


    Power folding mirrors are also installed, but still need to be paint-matched. The funny part is I'll probably never use them for fear of the motors dying and not being able to replace them. DIY for the external relay system coming soon.

    Last edited by CyborgGT; 10-15-2020, 12:36 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • CyborgGT
    replied
    I have it, I just need to cut out the little half-circles and probably plastic weld them flush with the rest of the cover, just so they don't stick inward and hit the cam gear bolts.

    Leave a comment:


  • tommi
    replied
    I have the upper cover if ur interested

    Leave a comment:


  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Currently waiting for all the parts to ship from KSTuned and Majestic to convert back to the H22 timing tension system (some parts need to be ordered by both parties before they can ship them to me), and in the meantime I'm finishing up the header fitment and intake manifold polishing. I'll get pics up when those are done.

    But I was cleaning the plastic timing covers and discovered that the upper piece doesn't clear the adjustment bolts on the cam pulleys. I have that valve cover that leaves the gears exposed for the dyno and for going to shows, but I definitely don't want dirt getting in there otherwise, so that'll need some customizing...
    Last edited by CyborgGT; 08-30-2020, 11:29 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • tommi
    replied
    Thx for the props on your build page on the cb9R loving the detail of work on the car and engine bay. Any updates

    Leave a comment:


  • CyborgGT
    replied
    With my luck, it'll blow on the dyno.

    Leave a comment:


  • fatboy1185
    replied
    Dang thatís nice. I hope you get years of use out of that engine.

    Leave a comment:


  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Well, I discovered that the bolt that holds the tensioner pulleys was only hand-tight. My bad! Still changing the tensioner system. Looking at the parts prices at Majestic is slightly depressing, though.

    More external assembly, and it's looking like an engine again. On the distributor, the part that plugs into the camshaft, it's designed to only go on one way, right? So we don't accidentally set it 180* off? I was worried that one of the tabs was bent at first.


    I suppose getting a fancy cam seal is kind of pointless on the H22.








    Every single gasket, seal, and o-ring in this engine is brand new, so I'm feeling pretty good about it!

    Leave a comment:


  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Skunk2 sent me a different how-to guide on degreeing. Much easier. No math. It confirmed that I did get the intake cam correct using MotoIQ's guide, but maybe they just didn't do a good enough job of explaining how the formula translates to the exhaust cam, I don't know. But my cams are now degreed in! Intake needed +0.5 degrees, exhaust needed +1 degree. Now I think all I have left to complete assembly is to figure out the timing tensioner situation, converting back to stock H22 hoping it doesn't max out the tension, and then get the KSTuned parts for reliability.



    Leave a comment:


  • Rilas
    replied
    Kaizen Speed makes an piece to add that prevents belt walk also. Usually it's because the belt is too tight. I used the OEM H22 tensioner and drilled it out and put a carriage bolt into it, creating my own manual style tensioner.

    Also I've read about weird center line issues with cams before as well. But they were usually J series engines with the single cam.

    Leave a comment:


  • Raf99
    replied
    wow, that's too nice to put in a car now. Better use it as a table

    I had the belt walk off thing when doing my timing too. It was that the one of the pulleys was not on proper, believe it was the tensioner one as it has the two parts to it in a weird way. If the belt is way too tight this problem may arise too (assuming you forced it on there). But something is not level and causing the belt to walk. Keep looking!

    Leave a comment:


  • CyborgGT
    replied
    Where I'm at...


    Bottom end assembly was completed.









    Finally took the wraps off the head since getting it back from the machine shop.






    I never noticed, but HMO stamps their heads as well.






    Ports were left alone.




    Absolutely nothing else was.




    Pro 2 VTEC, yo.




    Balance shaft seal retainer.




    OEM fits perfect. MTC is garbage.




    I finally got started on degreeing the cams last night, which I was extremely nervous about. Turned out to be pretty easy, though. At least for the intake cam. Two attempts through the procedure, an advancing of the cam by 0.5 degrees, and S2's advertised centerline was found no problem. But then I got to the exhaust, and had to halt progress again. For some reason, after multiple attempts, it's too far off. As in, it's calling for an 11-degree retard. I have to be doing something wrong, but I'm just not seeing why it would be any different from the intake side. I emailed Skunk2 about it, so until further notice...




    After all that rotation of the engine, I saw what I was hoping the S2 gears would cure: the common timing belt overhang. Something's up with my setup, as the belt is pushed out a bit all the way down the block. It's rubbing up against the balancer belt tensioner pulley, and down at the crank you can see it's wanting to walk away from the engine as well, if it weren't for the other parts keeping it on. What could be pushing it out?! I think the water pump pulley is the only spot with no overhang. I've got the H23 manual tensioner conversion, and I've been thinking about converting back to the H22 setup just to run a manual tensioner from Kaizenspeed or the like, and see what that does. My H22 parts are years disappeared, though, so that'll take some figuring out. On top of that, I'm really not liking how much of a pain it is just to get the belt on in the first place.







    Last edited by CyborgGT; 08-18-2020, 06:20 AM.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X