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CyborgGT : 1993 Accord EX wagon

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    Honda's problem was the key cylinders. You can take the key from any '90s Honda or Acura, grind it down a bit (curbs are often handy), and with enough wiggling it will slide into the key cylinder of any other '90s Honda or Acura and allow you to turn it. If this extends to even older Hondas, I'm not aware. But with that method, I once used a key I still had from my old sedan to get into someone's late '90s Integra for them. Only took me a couple minutes to get in, and no damage was done. The fact that '90s Hondas always top the most-stolen lists suggests other manufacturers don't have quite this same weakness.

    This anti-theft company offers what looks to be a very similar system to what I've done, but they make it convenient by bringing the connector into the cabin: https://ravelcocolorado.com/

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      That looks like a nifty solution.
      http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

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        Couldn't let this one go, this is a road trip build after all. NH-503P-3 had up for sale the most complete OEM roof rack set anyone could hope for. It probably won't be installed until next year, though. I want to get it properly repainted first.

        Last edited by CyborgGT; 03-08-2022, 08:30 PM.

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          I saw this on the IG! I’m glad you scored this and will take care of it.
          http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

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            I have an ODB2 distributor in Lola and I take the jumper harness from OBD1 to OBD2 with me when the car is out and about. I also usually shut off the power as well, because I'm totally paranoid after old Lola was stolen. I also have the JDi push to start kit. I choose not to get the wireless security option as I don't think wireless is a good option and is far too easily hacked. I have the RF reader and a card that I have to place close enough to the reader to activate the ignition. Which shouldn't be easily hackable. The RF range is very low, like 1 inch or so. Extremely hard to hack imo.

            Really odd about the radius rods for the ESP traction bar. Makes me happy I went with an Innovative.
            MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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              Yeah, I don't trust anything wireless either, for that same ease of hacking reason. Even with the RF reader, I worry that the JDi kit is becoming common enough that thieves who 'specialize' in Hondas will soon know what to look for. Surely if they can find the receiver, there are wires going into it that can be crossed to hot-wire the car? Just watching videos of YouTubers who have installed it, it looks like they're all putting it in the same spot. Yeah, they say "I'm not going to tell you where I put it," but then they show themselves putting the RF reader right up to the dash just to the right of the stock key location. How many people are really going to be putting the receiver further than arm's reach from the driver's seat?

              I wanted the ESP traction bar because I knew I was at least hoping to get an EX with ABS, and the Innovative bar doesn't have the mount for that. The ESP's torque strut is a lot less bulky as well (although the smaller bushings probably mean it'll transfer more vibration into the cabin, we'll see). My only complaints are that 1) there's a pivot point on the LCA end of the radius rods (I didn't realize at the time of purchase that that's a functional handicap); and 2) there's no provision for the stock under-engine subframe brace, which I want to retain. Both issues should be simple enough to remedy by a fabricator, though. Time will tell if I ever decide to switch to an Innovative.

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                All good points. Although each RF chip is programmed different, I guess if someone had enough time they could find the box (requires tools to get to) and then use the "lost key" method which can start the car. So I guess if I left the car out over night I should have some other disabling device as now my steering wheel lock is gone too (because of push button start). Just not sure there's anything that a thief wouldn't know to do, if he's prepared to hack this push button start he probably brought fuses and other parts too.

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                  I like the pigtail for the dizzy idea Will had and if you combine that with the locking hood pins, that seems like a pretty solid deterrence. They would have to cut open the hood and then figure out a way to splice the 2 plugs together.

                  ~Nick~
                  FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                  MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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                    Honestly I know how to easily bypass the whole push button RF setup completely and it’s extremely easy. I believe I already messaged Raf about it. But every little bit helps.
                    ~Nick~
                    FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                    MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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                      Honestly after working on these cars so damn long IF I wanted to steal one it would take less than 10 minutes tops. If it has push to start and no steering wheel lock it's even easier. Which is why I'm trying to come up with other deterrents to prevent this.
                      MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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                        Yeah, I think that multi layered approach is important when it comes to security. The RF reader that Will mentioned and the removable harness are excellent ideas. I also think that the solution has to be novel and inconvenient for the thief to encourage them to give up. Unfortunately older Hondas aren’t overly difficult to break into and then check the usual areas for security measures. Interrupt circuits for the main relay or ECU power supply are easy enough to add to a ground switched function on aftermarket alarm system though. Physical things that can be taken away or hidden magnetic switches might also add a layer of security.

                        I tend to remove my interior ecu fuse and replace it with a blown fuse if I know that I’m in public and will be away from the car for an extended period, but any Honda familiar their will know what to check.
                        http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

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                          I forgot about the removal of the steering lock for that push button kit. I probably won't go that route, then. One of my other security plans is a removable steering wheel, so of course the lock would benefit that if a thief tried to roll the car to another location. A tracker with a good app would be great, though, I'll have to look into the brand JDi uses.

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                            yaa. there's no real way to stop someone from stealing your car if they really want to. I guess I'll just take the wire off between my distributor and the MSD ignition system. Maybe a fuel pump cutoff switch somewhere would be helpful.
                            CyborgGT, I keep thinking about your ESP traction bar & if you need measurements I now have mine off the car. Just FYI. I still wish I could solve the issue for you on that..... seems weird that we would have identical setups but your alignment is way out and mine is fine.

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                              True that; they'll steal it if they want it badly enough. Just gotta do what we can to cost them as much time as possible.

                              And who knows with the traction bar, maybe my "eyecrometer" is off and the alignment is fine with the original bars, lol. Having wider wheels could certainly be messing with me. That or something might have happened during production and the little tabs on the traction bar itself weren't placed correctly. ESP's production was pretty low budget, after all. Someone else posted having alignment issues in that thread in the Suspension section and needing shorter radius rods, though, so I wanted to play it safe with options for when I take the car in for an actual alignment. At least the shorter rods were cheap, so no real loss if I don't need them.

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                                ahh, i thought you went for an alignment already and had the numbers. Oh , I tried your way of taking the trans out from the bottom... ug... that wasn't too much easier. haha. The intake manifold crushed some things in the back and i couldn't lower the engine enough to really not scratch the shit out of the side of the bay and was a good 1 hour long fight. But I did do it that way.

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