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CyborgGT : 1993 Accord EX wagon

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    Nope. Can't get an alignment until the car is registered, can't get it registered until it's drivable. Sadly, it appeared there was no way the F22 was going to pass emissions with all the soot it was spewing out the tailpipe, and it wasn't worth working on.

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      Working on fuel pump access these last couple days...


      Carefully poking holes to find the pump. Luckily, the body in this spot is stamped exactly the same in the wagon as it is in the sedan, so I had a good idea where everything was before I started, including that brake(?) line that's hanging out just an inch under the metal:




      Stuck a flashlight up to the holes to find and mark the rough outline of the pump itself:




      "EK" Civic sedan access cover from the junkyard:




      Cut a stencil of the cover's gasket out of a piece of paper and traced it onto where I wanted to locate it, centered over the pump:




      Decided on the hole I wanted to cut:




      Still nervous about sparks and the potential fuel vapor leak, I stuck to using the step-bit drill to trace the hole, rather than a dremel and cutting wheel. You can see some adjustment was made to the overall hole, once I had a better view underneath:




      Used tin snips to cut the small gaps of metal between the holes:




      Decided the snips weren't going to get me anywhere near the cleanliness I wanted in the end, so I took my chances with the little bit of sparks this grindstone throws, stuffing the hole with plastic to minimize risk. Sound deadening definitely needs replacing; the deadening under the spare tire is so soaked in oil from the previous owner leaving a quart back there, that I don't even need dry ice to pull it up.




      The riv-nut is the greatest invention ever! I was able to use standard 10mm M6 bolts here:




      Sorta-finished. I need to pick up some thicker gasket material to better conform to the Accord's body, some silicone to fill that hole in the Civic's wire grommet, and I'm thinking of painting the cover a satin black to match some pieces on my engine. But I am so happy with how this turned out.

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        Very nicely done. This is still on my to do list.
        ~Nick~
        FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
        MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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          This is excellent work and also on my spring project list. It has been too wintery to go to salvage and get a Civic cover. Are you upgrading your pump soon?
          http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

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            Yes, I'll be putting a Walbro 255 in. Still need to drain the old 87 octane and put 91 in as well.

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              So I've been talking to the tuner today, and the pressure's on to get this thing started on the basemap in the next couple of weeks to make sure I don't have any gremlins. Fab and dyno are scheduled to happen on my vacation the last week of April!

              I think I've just got fluids to deal with, but getting as lubricated a start-up as possible has me a bit nervous - does the oil pump pull directly from the pan, or for a bone dry engine is there a better spot to pour the oil in than the cap? I've poured a little bit around the head already, mainly to lube the cams and rocker pads, but I don't know the path the oil takes as it drains down into the pan. Coolant as well: does it sound like a good plan to pour it in through the upper radiator hose to fill the block, attach that hose to the radiator, and then fill the radiator? I'm imagining it to be a real pain to get through the initial burping, especially since I'm keeping the IACV.

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                Cyborg, I would do as you have done and lube the cams/rocker arms. Oil goes to the drain holes in the head and goes straight down into the oil pan. Before first start up unhook the injectors and crank it over for a bit to pump oil through the entire engine. Oil picks up directly from the pickup in the pan.

                Coolant just add it through the rad cap. Keep the bleeder open when initially filling it will get a lot of the air out. You can't get it all without a vacuum to draw it all in with a special tool for the job. The engine will work the little air bubbles out of the system and into the overflow tank and be gone after that. Just keep the heater open as well to try and get as much as you can in the heater core as well. Also you can drop all the coolant lines associated with the throttle body and the IACV. You can even remove the bottom plate from the IACV as well and not have the coolant nipples sticking out.
                MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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                  Thanks for the tips! That reminds me, my friend that manages the storage center I'm working out of actually has one of those vacuum tools that I used on my last brake job. I'll see if the coolant is enough of a pain to make me want to push the car across the lot to his shop with the air compressor. I definitely want to keep the IACV for the practicality, though. I'm not building a race car, I want this thing comfortable and hassle-free.

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                    Seeing the filthy top of my gas tank, I realized that I never thought to get a replacement gasket. I decided to order an entire cheap-o pump assembly off eBay, just for a more pleasant swapping of the pumps, and hooked up the Walbro.




                    I also got some neoprene (wet suit material) with adhesive backing to make an elements-proof seal for the underside of my new access panel.

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                      Well, this happened. No drama, it just started right up after first priming the oil by cranking the engine a bit with the injectors unplugged, then cycling the key a few times to get fuel pressure up. Only issue is an oil leak near the filter; I'll look into that tomorrow while the engine is cold. I picked up one of those big 'spill proof' funnels that's supposed to make burping the coolant easy, so I should be good there now. But too much breathing of unfiltered exhaust gave me a headache to want to stay out there any longer...



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                        Yep... Sounds right

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                          Is it normal for forged internals and/or an engine that's not yet broken in to sound a bit chattery even at operating temp? Sounds more top-end, but I'm not sure. That's the only thing I'm worried about.

                          The oil leak turned out to be exactly what I thought: the setup I have to tee in the pressure sensor. I don't have time to fix it properly right now, and I was planning an oil change after the dyno anyway, so until then I just spread some silicone over the leak. It only starts leaking when the engine's warmed up and the oil's pressurized. I also removed the valve cover today to look around, and all seemed well in the head.

                          I'll run the engine again tomorrow to confirm my oil leak fix works, and try to get a better recording of that chatter.

                          *ED. - Nevermind, it was just the dry power steering pump. I just took the belt off for now, I'll figure out how to get fluid in there after the dyno (emailed the guy Monday, still haven't heard back from him!). It's dumb that the pump is mounted higher than the reservoir. Engine sounds great, though.
                          Last edited by CyborgGT; 04-22-2022, 09:21 PM.

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                            Nice man congrats! I bet it felt great to finally hear the motor run. Looking forward to the dyno pull videos.
                            ~Nick~
                            FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                            MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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                              Yeah, it’s very fulfilling to see this up and running finally. The dyno pulls should be a good time.
                              http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

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                                The tuner finally got back to me today. Sucks I couldn't get it done during my vacation from work this week as we originally planned, but I'll be dropping the car off next Saturday to start the fab work. With me working overnight I'll do my best to be there for the dyno tuning to record pulls, but it's two hours round trip out of my day just getting there and back, and the work is done on his packed schedule, so we'll see. Knowing me, I might actually go a few days on only a couple hours of sleep just to see it. At least the delay gives me time to properly fix that oil leak first.

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