CyborgGT : 1993 Accord EX wagon

[CyborgGT]

I should just need it to idle for a few, but being able to drive it around a parking lot would be nice, to make sure it doesn't do anything weird under light load.

[Raf99]

Looks good. Well are you looking to see if it will run or just turn over? Usually basemaps are pretty safe assuming you told them what your setup was (injectors etc.). Just them pretty much using OEM basemap that a normal H22 would have.

[CyborgGT]

Still a long way to go before start-up, because I'm broke lol (lots of little things still need ordering), but the car's back on the ground...




Speaking of start-up, Hondata's instructions say I need to first plug the ECU into a laptop and set up the software before plugging the ECU into the car. I have a Mac, so I can't do that, but I'm hoping that since my ECU is already programmed with a tailored Phearable basemap, I'll be safe. One of you guys have experience to know for certain? That's an expensive part to fry. The other option is not touching it until I have the car towed to the dyno, but then I can't make sure I've got my wiring right and the thing actually runs as it should beforehand...

[Raf99]

Yaaa, like that idea.

[CyborgGT]

Agreed. I definitely don't want direct airflow into the tube, going back to that worry about water getting in. In the end, I got that cone wedged right up under the cutout. I'm going for a bit of a motorsports theme with the exterior of this car (seriously considering getting it wrapped in one of Honda's old JTCC/BTCC liveries one day - very long way off though), so to add some aggression to the look of the car I found this mini NACA duct on eBay. I'll be mounting a couple of those on the side of the bumper to try to pressurize this 'air box'. Gravity should keep water from reaching the intake itself.




I'm making good progress with the reassembly as well. The car will be back on the ground by tonight. Cleaning the underside of the hood here before remounting...

[Raf99]

Looks good. You should just do what Honda does for that lower plastic piece and face the opening away from the wind. I know you want to "ram" air in there but pretty sure engine will suck just as much no matter which way the opening is facing.

[CyborgGT]

Got the cold-air intake hole cut out. The hole will be edged with vacuum line for protection, of course. The circle was drawn after the first holes were (poorly) measured out and drilled, by the way. Yeah, I didn't think of tracing the intake tube right away, I just got out the tape measure and started marking two points on opposite sides of the existing hole, and of course they didn't come out even. Still, I was able to save it and massage out a neat, circular hole. I don't have any massive hole saws, so I used the same technique as with the fog light cut-outs: drill a bunch of small holes to make cutting the larger shape with a dremel easier.










The K&N Apollo gives you a good amount of hose to work with. Flexible and extendable, without being too rough and turbulent on the inside. The biggest selling point for me was that it maintains a factory-like enclosed filter.




I think I'll end up cutting it down to something like this, putting the bell mouth as high as possible to minimize the risk of taking in water. I'm also considering putting some sort of subtle scoop on the side of the bumper, for a ram air effect... which might undo that fight against water but I suppose this isn't my daily driver, right?




Rough filter location/angle. Just need to have the aluminum tubing to the throttle cut and welded up.

[NH-503P-3]

The US 93 SE models use fuse 40 for the Bose equipment fuse. Fuse 21 on the under hood fuse box is also open to use how you want. I run my fog lights off of it. On the 16 pin plug for the u/h fuse box pin 15 is open. Put a wire to it and you have power from fuse 21.

[Raf99]

Makes sense on the DRLs. Guessing it's a 12V feed. dedicated for unique accessories.

[CyborgGT]

Forgot all about those auto belts, that makes sense. Thanks for looking into it.

[NH-503P-3]

Typo. My apologies I meant under hood fuse box

[NH-503P-3]

The under dash two pin plug is for fuse 40 and 41. In the Haynes manual it’s the two that say “not used” under each of them. Fuse 39 (headlight fuse) actually connects to fuse 41 on the Haynes fuse box diagram. On the diagram the two ports directly below these fuses that have no wiring shown connecting to them are the two ports that represent those fuses. If you have a 90-91 accord those are the fuse ports for those crappy auto belts. I think on Canadian models one of those fuse ports is for DRLs. I also use one for my oe DRLs and the other for my heated seats.

[CyborgGT]

That's what has me confused. Being an EX wagon, I should have all the options. The fog lights plug into one of the others that are also used by other circuits. Maybe it's a Canadian thing? Did you guys get heated mirrors or anything like that? My FSM is out at the car 30 min from home, though. I'll dig through it this weekend.

[Raf99]

My car uses that 2 pin connector in the fuse box. & not sure what it's for. In the haynes manual it shows the 2 pin connector but doesn't show where it goes. I have no sunroof or fog lights.

[CyborgGT]

Advantage with the K manifold? That's what I'll be finding out. It doesn't look like all-motor power on the H22 has been too heavily explored on this forum, so I'd like to have a go at trying some things for myself. Given that an engine is a glorified air pump, and something like the S2 Ultra should allow for air to more easily enter the engine via increased throttle body size and internal design, I assume it'll offer gains. After all, the Euro R is a known improvement over the base-model H22 manifolds. As for the brake booster nipple; those fittings can usually be rotated, or if not a line could just incorporate a U-bend. Swapping to a K manifold is a very long ways off though; I should be making plenty of power with what I've got and want to start bringing the rest of the car up to par asap.

I'll have to do some exploring into that unused fuse box port...