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Tnwagn : 1991 Accord LX
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Originally posted by greencb7inkc View PostJosh you selling the CB?
Jorge, do you need spacers cuz of the wheels or the tiresOriginally posted by Joshs92ex View PostYessir.
Yes, with ITR's you need spacers.
Some people grind down the brake caliper, but that's definitely not advised.
Grinding them down isn't really too bad, but it's not something I want to do.
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Originally posted by Joshs92ex View PostWhen are you coming back through?
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Originally posted by Tnwagn View PostThis upcoming weekend. I'm going to stop on my way back down on Sunday to meet with Nic to hand him my wheels and tires so he can mount them for me. He said we could meet at the moore road exit, it is the first exit right after the 24/75 split.
What time you thinking you're coming through?
Will it be after 4?
1999 BMW M3
2001 Honda CR-V SE RT4WD
2005 Chevrolet Tahoe Z71
2015 Suzuki V-Strom 650
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Originally posted by Tnwagn View Post
One step closer to the ITR's being on the carHeader Whorage and Official Part out sale.
Official Garage Sale Thread
http://jdmconcepts.com/ Head porting specialist..
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Originally posted by bmxicansd View Postnice.. If i may ask how much did those run you? And do they make shorter ones or just the extended ones?
ARP makes both stock length and extended length metric studs that are the same dimensions as our stock studs.
Stock Length Wheel Studs 4 Pack --- ARP P/N: 100-7709
Stock Length Wheel Studs 5 Pack --- ARP P/N: 100-7710
Extended Wheel Studs 4 Pack ------- ARP P/N: 100-7711
Extended Wheel Studs 5 Pack ------- ARP P/N: 100-7712
The lugnuts are OEM Honda P/N: 90381-SV1-901. They ran 3.36 a piece for me at the dealership today.
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Anyways, George, you can change out rear studs without taking the hub off.
You do have to take the drum off, which is a PITA then hammer them bitches off.
IIRC there is enough room to stick a stud back through there. Not really sure though since this was discovered as I was switching to discs out back and salvaged good studs from the drums to put on the discs.
With the rear discs studs of any length can be put in easily with the rear caliper removed.Gary A.K.A. Carter
[sig killed by photobucket]
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Originally posted by The G-Man View PostAnyways, George, you can change out rear studs without taking the hub off.
You do have to take the drum off, which is a PITA then hammer them bitches off.
IIRC there is enough room to stick a stud back through there. Not really sure though since this was discovered as I was switching to discs out back and salvaged good studs from the drums to put on the discs.
With the rear discs studs of any length can be put in easily with the rear caliper removed.
I've heard removing the rear drum can be a bitch, but then again I've heard of some people having it slide off with ease. Guess I won't know until I tackle that project. I'm not too concerned about it right now. I don't plan on Auto-X'ing or Tracking the car anytime soon (if ever) so I feel alright driving around like that.
And I'm in the process of putting together a list of all the problems I have with my car that I'm going to take care of over the next few years. I don't really want to put money into a new used car when I have a very reliable platform that gets good mileage that I know how to work on. I figure that even if I go all out and get the best parts I can find I still will save money restoring this car vs. buying a newer used car and just driving it. Plus, insurance is sooooooooooo cheap on my car. The insurance company pretty much sees my car as the least threatening vehicle out there, so my rate is awesome, even for my age. I can't wait for 5 years when I hit 25. My rate is going to be pretty much nothing
Anyway, here is the beginning of the list. So far I've just started listing Exterior and Interior issues. Those that look at the pictures and think my car has no problems, guess again
Exterior:
- Front Passenger’s side inner fender liner ripped out
- Wiper Arms have faded black paint
- New paint needed
- Driver’s door has bent trim piece
- Rear Driver’s side door has bent trim piece
- Window Visors have insufficient double sided tape
- Window Visors are faded
- Rear Passenger’s side quarter panel has rust
- Rear Driver’s side quarter panel leaks water into cabin of car badly
Interior:
- Glove box dampener broken
- Cup Holder will not stay in
- Both Front doors leak water, causing water lines on speaker grills
- Driver’s door speaker grill needs to re-glued down
- Driver’s door has ripped weather-stripping
- Rear Driver’s side door panel has gouges
- 6”x9” Speaker and Panel aren’t installed
- Hatch Carpet isn’t properly fitted
- Unknown squeaks all around cabin
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Sounds good man.
Im kinda doing the same thing. Not reverting back to stock, just getting everything up to a SOLID platform that can be used to begin modification.
KeepinItClean | EnviousFilms | NoBigDeal | YET2BSCENE | .· ` ' / ·. | click here.
Originally posted by JarrettIs there a goal you're trying to accomplish besides looking dope as hell?
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installation of extended wheel studs on the front requires removal of the hub... I fucked a stud up trying to proove myself wrong.
rear drums can be removed with a BFH, it takes alot to mess one up, dont be afraid to whale on it... i have xtras if you wind up needing one.Last edited by 90Cb7sleeper; 10-23-2008, 12:05 AM.
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Originally posted by greencb7inkc View PostSounds good man.
Im kinda doing the same thing. Not reverting back to stock, just getting everything up to a SOLID platform that can be used to begin modification.
Originally posted by 90Cb7sleeper View Postinstallation of extended wheel studs on the front requires removal of the hub... I fucked a stud up trying to proove myself wrong.
rear drums can be removed with a BFH, it takes alot to mess one up, dont be afraid to whale on it... i have xtras if you wind up needing one.
As for the rear, thanks for the info, but I'm going to wait until later to replace it. I have enough to work on this weekend as it is.
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you can pop a stock stud out easily with the caliper removed, but with the added length of the extended studs, your not allowed as great of an angle to get it in. Mine were hitting the knuckle IIRC. you can take a 10mm socket and hit the head of it in a criss cross pattern to get the front hub out to install the studs. I had to do this when i replaced my lowered ball joint.
I messed up the threads on one trying to get it in.
also, mine were Skunk2 studs. it maybe different with ARP
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