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This will be my last update with pictures for about 2 months or so. But I did finish up the driver side wire tuck today.
I have identified all the plugs and wires except this one. Not sure what it goes to maybe you guys can help. It has 3 brown wires and one ground going to it:
I put the headlight back on and decided to take a picture of the front end with the front bumper and without:
I believe the wire are for the cruise control plug.
I dropped the head off at the machine shop yesterday. The guy who is doing the work is an old school hot rod/ alcohol running engine builder. So I have a lot of faith in him. But apparently the previous machine shop installed new valve seats(and didn't inform me) ; and didn't grind them down to seat the valves properly. Once again I have to spend more money now to fix the errors of this previous shop (this could explain why they are no longer in business). I should be getting the head back Monday. Once it's back I will be putting it on the block and the motor will be completely finished. Look for pictures to come next week.
So yesterday since the machine shop was closed I started working on the passenger side wire tuck. I got the wires routed and loomed just have to finish mounting the wires, connect the wires and then put back together the glove box and fan.
I also got the head back today. They ended up replacing the valve seats, since the other shop screwed it up badly. And finished installing the rest of the valve train. I'll be installing the head on the block later this week. Getting excited the motor is almost finish. Then I have to turn my attention to the turbo set up.
So got most of the motor done today, just have to recheck all torques, install timing belt, check valve lash and adjust as needed.
My next focus will be the intake manifold. I am planning on gutting the plenum and deleting the butterfly valves. Haven't decided if I am going keep and use my omnipower 70mm TB, if I do I'll have to port match it.
Anyways on with the pictures:
Spraying the head gasket with copper sealant
Gasket on block:
Head mounted on block with ARP head studs:
Valve cover and Bisimoto "no slip" cam gears installed:
Im thinking about having the valve cover repowdercoated to match the candy apple red motor mounts, but I'm not sure if that would clash with the cam gears or not. Thought?
Ordered the timing belt, Gates Blue racing T247RB, it says it will be here on Monday so I should have the timing belt done Monday night if everything goes well.
Red top, blue belt, gold pulleys would work for sure
White or gold might work too, depends on your bay theme.
I haven't really decided on a color theme for the car. I have been playing with the idea of going with the same color as 604_cb7. I really love the blue and his car. However I also like the new 2015 accord tiger eye pearl paint as well. But this will all be done probably after I am done building the engine.
Yea , I didn't use copper spray on my cometic gasket. I heard good and bad , keep me updated on how it worked out. Any idea how many psi of boost you plan to run.
I used it on my last motor I had with the f22b head on it and never had a problem with it. As for the PSI since I didn't get the block sleeved I don't want to do anything too crazy. I plan to run 18psi for street and then 20-22psi for track days. Since this isn't my DD anymore I am not to worried about constantly beating on it. My goal is 350-400, I figured after that it gets a little to crazy lol.
How about you? Whats your power goal and psi, you plan to run?
I plan on running a boost by gear setup , with max boost north of 35+ psi. High boost for the track and low boost to go home.
You should putting out some great numbers with that set up and psi.
Update:
Finished the full a/c delete, found a dx with no a/c and took the ducting from it that goes in place of the condenser.
I also finished the passenger side wire tuck today. I hope everything works. Sucks not having a battery to make sure everything works. But don't want to spend the money til I get closer to being complete with the build.
Also ordered the woodruff key for the crank pully and the gasket for the thermostat from honda today. Should be here tomorrow and then I can finish the timing belt and do the valve adjustment.
I need to find a cheap header to use until I finish the turbo kit.
Wish I could figure out how to make the pics bigger
Edit: just got in my timing belt, once I get he woodruff key tomorrow I'll be putting the timing belt on.
Got the timing belt on, I forgot how hard it was to get the belt on. Not sure if the gates racing belt doesn't have as much give as the OEM belt but it was a bish to get on. Took me two hours.
Finished product:
So I cleaned up the manifold today and ordered the gaskets for the plenum and butterfly valves today. And also gutted the plenum.
I plan to port match the intake plenum to the omnipower 70mm. I just have a couple concerns.
If you notice at the top left corner in the pic below there is a small gap, where the idle screw gets it's input. Then there is a small gap on the lower right not sure where that goes too.. If I port match that gap will disappear along with the space on the lower right. Kinda hard to see. .
So I compared my old TB to the omnipower TB that I plan to use. The omnipower TB doesn't have the idle screw. So I believe I don't have to keep that gap. Again this is in reference to the gap on the top left of the plenum.
Now the gap on the lower right goes to the bottom left of the old TB. That gap went to the opening at the bottom of the entrance of the TB. Which has two opening where as the omnipower only has one and that passage is blocked.
Omnipower:
So is it safe to say that I do not need to imitate these gaps on the plenum since they are of no use on the omnipower TB? Both are blocked off on the omnipower.
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