** ACCORD TECHNICAL INFORMATION **

[accordztech]

Please look in here then search

What is Vtec?
vtec explained

-Fizzbob7
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MAIN RELAY:Hard to start when hot

the main relay (located under the steering column/dash) also controls the fuel pump relay and is very well known for going bad and when hot inside the car, may not allow the fuel pump to come on until it cools for a minute or two......it WILL turn over, but won't fire up.......if this is the case, then you can get a new one from Honda for $70+ (damn) or you can usually get them online for $40 new or rebuilt (just as good, just needs some soldering done to make it work properly)......make sure it's the right one, because most parts stores will sell you the secondary main relay that plugs in the fuse box near the drivers side kick panel.....that one usually gives no problems.....and it's $30, so don't waste your money.....here are some helpful links and pics......

Main Relay

-Fizzbob7
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speedo sensor-Speedo wack, S light blinking

Speedo check


how to fix it, detailed instructions!

[accordztech]

Pull CEL code

Pulling CEL code....

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...&threadid=7159

^^^^as a reference, visually


this is how to diagnose the CEL codes for the ecu. you find the blue jumper wire in the passenger kick pannel. and you run a line from one connector to another. if its a single digit code, it will flash quickly a bunch of times, just count them. if its double, like 21... it have two long flashes followed by one quick, then a pause and repeat.

heres what they all are:
00
ECU
Defective ECU

01
Primary O2 sensor
Open or short in O2 sensor circuit, defective Primary O2 sensor

02
Secondary O2 sensor
Open or short in O2 sensor circuit, defective Secondary O2 sensor

03
Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
Open or short in MAP sensor circuit, defective MAP sesnor

04
Crankshaft Position sensor
Timing belt slipped, defective CP sensor

05
Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
Reading too low or too high, defective MAP sensor

06
Engine Coolant Temp circuit
Reading too low or too high, open or short in circuit, defective ECT circuit

07
Throttle Position circuit
Reading too low or too high, open or short in circuit, defective TPS circuit

08
Top Dead Center sensor
Open or short in TDC sensor circuit, defective TDC sensor

09
Cylinder Position sensor
Open or short in CYP sensor circuit, defective CYP sensor

10
Intake Air Temperature sensor
Open or short in IAT sensor circuit, defective IAT sensor

12
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve
Open or short in EGR valve circuit, defective EGR valve

13
Barometric Pressure sensor circuit
Defective ECM (Barometric sensor)

14
Idle Control System Malfunction
Defective IAC valve, defective fast idle thermo valve, throttle body

15
Ignition Output Signal
Missing, defective or noisy Ignition Output Signal

16
Fuel Injector System
Defective or malfunctioning Fuel Injector System

17
Vehicle Speed sensor circuit
Open or short in VS sensor circuit, defective VS sensor

19
Lock-up Control Solenoid
Open or short in LCS circuit, defective LCS solenoid

20
Electrical Load Detector circuit
Open or short in ELD circuit, defective ELD circuit

21
VTEC Solenoid Valve
Open or short in VTEC solenoid valve circuit, defective VTEC solenoid valve

22
VTEC Oil Pressure Switch
Open or short in VTEC OPS circuit, defective VTEC pressure switch

23
Knock sensor circuit
Open or short in Knock sensor circuit, defective Knock sensor circuit

30
A/T FI Signal A high/low input
Defective AFSA line, TCM

31
A/T FI Signal B high/low input
Defective AFSB line, TCM

41
Primary Heated O2 sensor heater circuit
Open or short in Primary O2 sensor heater circuit, defective Primary O2 sensor heater circuit

43
Fuel Supply System
Defective or malfunctioning Fuel Supply System

45
System too lean/rich
Fuel supply system, Primary O2 sensor, MAP sensor, contaminated fuel, valve clearance, exhaust leakage

48
Lean Air Fuel sensor
Open or short in Lean Air Fuel sensor circuit, defective Lean Air Fuel sensor

54
Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation sensor
Open or short in CKF sensor circuit, defective CKF sensor circuit

58
Top Dead Center sensor #2
Open or short in TDC sensor circuit, defective TDC sensor

61
Primary Heated O2 sensor
Slow response, exhaust leak, defective Primary Heated O2 sensor

63
Secondary Heated O2 sensor
Slow response, exhaust leak, defective Secondary Heated O2 sensor

65
Secondary Heated O2 sensor circuit
Open or short in Secondary Heated O2 sensor circuit, defective Secondary Heated O2 sensor circuit


TCU Codes:

CODE LIST:

1-Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
2-Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
3-Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted.
4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.
5-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted.
6-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open.
7-Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
8-Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
9-Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted.
10-Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted.
11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted.
12-(No code 12 used)
13-Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted.
14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15-Kick down switch circuit shorted.

[accordztech]

Spark Plug Info

Spark plug info

Here is what service manual calls out for:

The following are to be replaced every 30,000 miles

Normal driving:

ZFR5F-11 (NGK)
KJ16CR-L11 (ND or Nippon Denso)

Hot Climates or Continuous High Speed Driving:

ZFR6F-11 (NGK)
KJ20CR-L11 (ND or Nippon Denso)

Spark plug gap 1.0-1.1 mm or 0.039-0.043 in

Torque plugs to 18 Nm or 13 lb-ft

Note: Using other brand-named plugs than the ones mentioned above may hinder performance.

Firing Order: 1-3-4-2

-posted by hondafan81

[accordztech]

vin # break down

Sourced from 1991 Accord Service Manual and first-hand knowledge.

Character # 1-3: Manufacturer Code & Vehicle Type:
JHM: Honda Motor Co., Japan, passenger
1HG: Honda of America, USA, passenger

Character # 4-6: Model Line:
CB7: Accord 2-door/4-door
CB9: Accord 5-door

Character # 7: Body & Transmission:
1: 2-door, 5-speed manual
2: 2-door, 4-speed automatic
5: 4-door, 5-speed manual
6: 4-door, 4-speed automatic
7: 5-door, 5-speed manual
8: 5-door, 4-speed automatic

Character # 8: Vehicle Grade (U.S. Models):
4: DX
5: LX
6: EX
8: SE

Character # 8: Vehicle Grade (Canadian Models):
4: DX LX
5: EX (4-door)
EX-R without A/C (2-door)
6: EX-R (4-door)
EX-R with A/C (2-door)
7: EX-R with ABS (4-door)
8: SE (4-door automatic)

Character # 9: Check digit:

Character # 10: Model Year:
L: 90
M: 91
N: 92
P: 93

Character # 11: Factory Code:
A: Ohio Factory, USA
C: Sayama Factory, Japan

Character # 12-17: Serial Number:
last 6 digits

-posted by HondaFan81

[accordztech]

Base engine breakdown

Engine Model Breakdown....

You can find your engine code by looking in the engine, by the front motor mount, under the upper radiator hose, near the timing check plug, left to the header. (pretty descriptive =)


90-93 LX and DX = F22A1 (125hp)

90-91 EX = F22A4 (130hp)

91 EX Wagon and SE = F22A6 (140hp)

93 LX 10th Anniversary Edition = F22A1 (125hp)

92-93 EX and SE = F22A6(140hp)

European engines = F22A9 2.2i

F22A1:

125 HP @ 5200 RPM
137 LB-FT @ 4000 RPM
8.8 :1 Compression Ratio

F22A4:

130 HP @ 5200 RPM
142 LB-FT @ 4000 RPM
8.8 :1 Compression Ratio

F22A6:

140 HP @ 5600 RPM
142 LB-FT @ 4500 RPM
8.8 :1 Compression Ratio

[accordztech]

LUG pattern

Rim Information....

Stock Rim Sizes Offered:

14" x 5.5"
15" x 5.5"

Bolt Pattern:

4 x 114.3 mm

[HondaFan81]

1992-1993 Accord Distributor Assembly Issue:

This is straight from American Honda Motor Co., Inc.

"American Honda has determined that the distributor bearing, a part in your car's ignition system, may not meet Honda's standards for durability. If it should fail, the engine may be difficult to start, or may not start at all."

They offered a warranty extension in the past for 6 years from the date the car was first sold or 75,000 miles, whichever comes first and they would replace it for free.

Anyhow, I just wanted you 92-93 Accord owners to aware of this issue.

[HondaFan81]

ACCORD MAINTENANCE INTERVALS:

** Note: This is what I do with our 4th gen Accords based off Honda & Haynes manual suggestions **

Every 3,000 or 5,000 miles:

- change motor oil & oil filter

> every 3,000 miles for city driving

> every 5,000 miles for highway driving

Every 15,000 miles:

- replace air filter
- replace copper spark plugs
- replace distributor cap & rotor
- check spark plug wires, replace if necessary

Every 30,000 miles:

- coolant flush
- change transaxle fluid

> ATF - Dexron/Mercon III

> MT fluid - 10W-40 motor oil or Synchromesh

Every 50,000 miles:

- replace fuel filter
- check platinum spark plugs, replace if necessary

Every 100,000 miles:

- replace timing belt, balancer belt, water pump (install balancer shaft seal retainer, if you have not already)
- replace platinum spark plugs

[HondaFan81]

HOW TO LINE UP THE IGNITION TIMING LINES:

When you look at the pointer there are two parts to it...well 3 if you include the 15 deg. BTDC line. I made a "key" below (ignore = signs, pay attention to rest).

INSTRUCTIONS:

Pointer # 1 has to be in the middle of pointer # 2...THEN both pointers #1-2 should line horizontally with the 15 deg BTDC line (middle of the 3 lines...the other two stand for +/- 2 deg ... or 13 & 17 deg. BTDC). If you follow these instructions, you WILL know you are looking at the pointers/15 deg BTDC line correctly. This is what I like about Hondas, for the most part they designed their cars to be worked on and make things idiot proof. You can tell they thought things out.

15 deg BTDC line = --

pointer # 1 = -

pointer # 2 = >


Diagram of what you should get:

-- ->

[HondaFan81]

HOW TO SET IGNITION TIMING:

** Note: Use the post above as reference on how to line up the ignition timing lines **

1) Let engine warm up to full idle @ 750 RPM +/- 50 RPM

2) Install jumper cable on the 2-pin service connector located under passenger-front dashboard

3) Hook-up your ignition timing gun (one connector to positive battery terminal, one to body ground and the spark plug wire clip on #1 cylinder - one farthest right on driver-side)

4) Pull the timing plug located to the left of exhaust manifold to see the flywheel timing marks (manual trans.)

5) Point ignition timing gun at the flywheel

6) Line yourself up right (using post above this one) so that you are correctly viewing the ignition timing marks with the timing gun

7) Find where your ignition timing is currently and adjust accordingly via moving distributor housing:

- stock ignition timing is 15 deg. +/- 2 deg BTDC (before top-dead center)

- so your ignition timing range is 13-17 deg BTDC

8) To advance or retard the ignition timing at the distributor housing:

- face the distributor from the passenger-side front fender

- loosen up all 3 screws

- rotate towards exhaust manifold (clockwise) to retard ignition timing

- rotate towards intake manifold (counter-clockwise) to advance ignition timing

- make small adjustments, snug up 3 screws, check timing with gun again & repeat if necessary

- once timing is set, tighten up all 3 screws at the distributor housing

9) Remove jumper cable from the 2-pin service connector located under passenger-front dashboard

[HondaFan81]

COOLING SYSTEM ELECTROLYSIS PROBLEM!!

I was over at the Auto Electricians the other day dropping of another fucked Alternator and noticed he was checking the coolant on a car with a Multimeter, and it reminded me of some old reference material I had stored away, so when I got home I dug it out of the archives and re-read it. It was all about Cooling System Electrolysis and the damage it can do to the Engine due to POOR GROUNDING. So I thought what a bloody good Topic to Write Up for my friends at the CB7Tuner Asylum. So here we go.

Coolant Electrolysis Facts

An electrical current passing through the cars coolant can cause major system component failures, all due to poor electrical grounds and the build up of static electricity in the vehicle. Electrical grounding problems can stem from poor installation of Engine Swaps, aftermarket goodies or shit collision damage repairs. This CAN destroy all cooling system components and ANYTHING else coming into contact with the coolant, regardless of the quality of cooling system maintenance. Yes ANYTHING, that means Water Pumps, Cylinder Heads, Engine Blocks, Inlet Manifolds, FIV’s, Pipes etc., etc. Depending on conditions it can be as quick as 2 months before ruining a radiator. The only way it can be stopped is to correct the electrical problem causing the current. Damage resulting from an electrical current can range from Minor Pitting of Alloy and Metal Components, Internal Flaking of radiators, oil coolers or heater cores, to Severe Corrosion of Alloy & Metal Components, which is the No 1 Killer of Alloy Cylinder Heads & Head Gasket failure. If you have ever seen the underside of a fucked Cylinder Head and noticed all the corrosion, it’s not lack of coolant that’s causing it.

Testing for Electrolysis in the Cooling System.

A Good Quality Auto-Sensing DIGITAL Multimeter (i.e. Fluke) capable of reading both AC and DC currents is best to test cooling systems. The Multimeter leads must be long enough to reach between the Radiator Filler and the ground side of the battery

So How Do You Test It.

Using a Good Quality Auto-Sensing DIGITAL Multimeter, attach the Negative Multimeter lead to the ground side of the battery.

Hold the Positive Lead in the COOLANT, touching the Coolant Only. (Important: Do not allow it to touch anything else but coolant)

Check the AC & DC Voltages with ALL electrical systems OFF (heater turned on) and Note Down Voltage readings

Read the AC & DC Voltages during Crank and Note Down Voltage readings.

Read the AC & DC Voltages with the Engine running with ALL electrical systems OFF and Note Down Voltage readings.

Read the AC & DC Voltages with the Engine running with ALL electrical systems ON. - Lights, coolers, fans, heaters, air conditioning, Sound System, cell phone (if fitted), two-way radio (if fitted) and Note Down Voltage readings.

The above procedure will test a complete system, including an electrical current which can be generated by air bag suspensions. This is why complete grounding of all rubber mounted components is necessary.

Voltage of 0.0 to 0.3 is normal in coolant of Cast Iron Block Engines. A Cast Iron Block Engine will be destroyed, with time, by as little as 0.5 volts, and some engine manufactures are reporting as little as 0.15 Volts WILL destroy an Alloy Engine.

Note: The current will be “AC” if the problem is due to Static Electricity.

How To Locate A Problem

If the Cooling System shows an electrical problem with all the equipment turned on, turn off one thing at a time until you finally turn off the system that stops the electrical current. When the current stops, this will indicate the electrical system causing the problem.

Take a lot of notice to the Starter Motor as they can cause as much damage to the cooling system and engine as a direct connection to an arc welder can. This is due to the high Amps present.

Repair any Stray Current or Static Electricity problem ASAP.

ALWAYS change old coolant if a stray current is detected. The electrical current WILL DESTROY a properly inhibited cooling system.

So there you have it Ladies & Gentlemen. Another Easy way to test the Grounds in your car. I hope this help everyone in there future problem solving.

Good Luck

THE GURU
*This is a Guru Publication and adheres to all Copyright accredited to it.

[HondaFan81]

OEM 90-93 ACCORD ENGINE BEARING ONLINE ORDERING CORRELATION CHART:

** For those ordering OEM Honda 90-93 Accord engine bearings from Majestic Honda (www.hondaautomotiveparts.com), here is a correlation chart of their part description to service manual bearing color codes **

CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS:

A = BLUE
B = BLACK
C = BROWN
D = GREEN
E = YELLOW
F = PINK
G = RED

MAIN BEARINGS:

A = BLACK
B = BROWN
C = GREEN
D = YELLOW
E = PINK

[HondaFan81]

Stock Fuel Pump Information:

1991 Accord EX 5spd (F22a4)

Stock fuel pump
Manufacturer: Denso
Part # 195130-0550
Flow Rate: 120 lph (liter per hour)