BTW before you say anything about it I work at an Acura dealer, but we have Honda manuals here also, since we work on them as well. You pretty obviously aren't going to take advise, read carefully enough to what we are telling you, and haven't got a clue. You might just wanna let someone that knows what they are doing handle it. Time is money, and accuracy counts. First time fix and a code of ethics is how I conduct my life. There are a lot of total SHIT "mechanics" out there that you should NEVER take your car to. Find 1 you can trust, Iv'e said all I can to try to help.
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AC low and high pressure gauge readings still low after 3 cans
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Originally posted by Size9zombie View PostBTW before you say anything about it I work at an Acura dealer, but we have Honda manuals here also, since we work on them as well. You pretty obviously aren't going to take advise, read carefully enough to what we are telling you, and haven't got a clue. You might just wanna let someone that knows what they are doing handle it. Time is money, and accuracy counts. First time fix and a code of ethics is how I conduct my life. There are a lot of total SHIT "mechanics" out there that you should NEVER take your car to. Find 1 you can trust, Iv'e said all I can to try to help.
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Originally posted by Size9zombie View PostYou JUST quoted me saying that temp and humidity play a factor. NOT MY REPAIR MANUAL. I work for Honda and I grabbed the repair manual off the shelf at the dealer where I work. 5,000 feet may be hard to get 30. I also said in 1 of your other threads that 25 would be fine.
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Originally posted by zedjr10 View PostYou've criticized a lot. That is for sure. You give me directions for r12 system i think. As i don't care.
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Originally posted by zedjr10 View PostIt is not hard, it is effn impossible. 30 won't happen. If you don't know how to answer in a helpful way, then why do you even answer.
Sorry if the other 15 or so responses on your other several threads about this same thing didn't seem helpful.Last edited by Size9zombie; 06-07-2018, 08:26 PM.
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The can of refrigerant should be over 100 psi in its full unused form, and static pressure where i am at in N.C. would be about 100 psi on an A/C system. If you are at 5,000 feet I haven't got a clue what the pressure would/should actully be. Anyone that lives at that altitude have a clue?? You should be able to charge the system with the small cans you buy at the auto parts stores, I have never heard of anyone having a problem, not to say that people haven't. Anything is possible I guess.
Edit* I really wouldn't trust the gauge on the can of refrigerant you buy from the parts store, it is not to be substituted for a proper manifold gauge. Not saying you would, just puting it out there for everyone that may see this in the future.Last edited by Size9zombie; 06-07-2018, 09:21 PM.
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Well of course one shouldn’t trust the gauge on the part store specials, but as soon as you open up the low side, the pressure reading will still read pressure off the can right? Given a higher reading, but you would negate this reading till it’s running to make sure the system is good to go?
I’ve always added refrigerant with the vehicle running when converting my r12 systems. Never hooked it to the actual machine as to not contaminate it, so I just use the typical gauges, pump, and heater belt for the r134 tank. I’ve never had a problem doing it this way.
I guess what I’m trying to say is do you fill when off for the sole purpose of not blowing shit up and having damage claims, or are there other reasons?
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Originally posted by zedjr10 View PostThe reason is because i look things up by specific questions as i know nobody is going to come out here and tell me step for step what to do. All my questions i try to be specific cause i need to understand all this myself. TUtorials and DIY are great but no way can u follow an exact tutorial step for step. Unless it was like changing your oil and even that varies car to car and circumstances. Things are always different and sometimes just wrong in tutorial. SO i watch many tutorials and ask things i think i need to know. And as with ac systems. I have never done this type of thing before. So i start out not having a clue about nothing. Just a bunch of assumptions.
The forum model is based on discussions and the discussion will evolve to cover a broad area if you let them. Part of that is more questions as some get answered and raise the need for additional info, these questions can be contained in the original thread instead of wanting every question to become a new topic.
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Refrigerants pressure is mostly based on its temperature but..
Heres a refrigerant conversion chart for +5000' ASL.
http://www.emersonclimate.com/Docume...7%20R4.pdf
The more accurate you are measuring them ambient temp the more precise your pressure target will be.
I dont remember if the cars evap has a TXV valve or not, but to ensure you have the correct charge youll need to do a superheat measurement, if it does have a TXV youll need to do a subcooling measurement.
I doubt it has one though being so old its probably just an orifice.
Reading all your other posts on the subject it sounds like you fucked something up with your monkeying around. Now you need to recover all the refrigerant and pull a vacuum to 500 microns and make sure its held for a half hour or more. To achieve this deep vacuum will take some time esp at altitude. If you dont get it down to proper vacuum levels you might as well stop fucking with it.
Have a read --> https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/...fter-ac-repairLast edited by illinois_erik; 06-08-2018, 12:06 AM.
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Originally posted by Ghostwhite View PostMy point is you don't have to create a new thread for every single question you have, you can ask in the ongoing thread you already started related to Air-Conditioning.
The forum model is based on discussions and the discussion will evolve to cover a broad area if you let them. Part of that is more questions as some get answered and raise the need for additional info, these questions can be contained in the original thread instead of wanting every question to become a new topic.
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Originally posted by illinois_erik View PostRefrigerants pressure is mostly based on its temperature but..
Heres a refrigerant conversion chart for +5000' ASL.
http://www.emersonclimate.com/Docume...CT-27%20R4.pdf
The more accurate you are measuring them ambient temp the more precise your pressure target will be.
I dont remember if the cars evap has a TXV valve or not, but to ensure you have the correct charge youll need to do a superheat measurement, if it does have a TXV youll need to do a subcooling measurement.
I doubt it has one though being so old its probably just an orifice.
Reading all your other posts on the subject it sounds like you fucked something up with your monkeying around. Now you need to recover all the refrigerant and pull a vacuum to 500 microns and make sure its held for a half hour or more. To achieve this deep vacuum will take some time esp at altitude. If you dont get it down to proper vacuum levels you might as well stop fucking with it.
Have a read --> https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/...fter-ac-repair
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Originally posted by zedjr10 View PostWhatever man. WHo are you to dictate to who how one should ask a question. People ask in their own way on how to help them best. hence why i ask here and not at other sites. Cause other sites get alot of that crap of man why don't you just do this or don't ask that as i should know or something. Cause people just like you tell others how things should be and asked and answered. You can go blow that up ur hootoo. If you don't want to help then just don't answer.
This thread has answered a few of your questions and you had more questions so you asked and got more answers. That is how it is supposed to work.
Again, I am not trying to judge your questions! Only advocating towards less new threads when you already have a discussion going with answers flowing in.
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Originally posted by Ghostwhite View PostI am absolutely not telling you to stop asking questions, I am suggesting that starting a new thread for each question isn't necessary.
This thread has answered a few of your questions and you had more questions so you asked and got more answers. That is how it is supposed to work.
Again, I am not trying to judge your questions! Only advocating towards less new threads when you already have a discussion going with answers flowing in.
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sorry the conversion chart for altitude is the PDF link. the image attached is for sea level. Also the car does have a thermo expansion valve so youd want to do subcooling measurements.
https://www.carid.com/1992-honda-acc...%5D%5B%5D=2.2L
Last edited by illinois_erik; 06-08-2018, 03:09 AM.
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